can anyone recommend a good one please??
Thanks.
Thanks.
Polishing Machine....
- Thread starter Duncan Mowlem
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- detailing
@Tourershine I wouldn't class him as a machine, but he does polish, but he may be offended you even suggested doing it yourself 
There are several different types of machine polisher.
Duel action and Rotary being the most commonly used, and they range from very cheap, to very expensive as with most things.
However, without sounding condescending, or at least trying not too. Anyone that thinks they can just pick up a machine polisher, and 'buff' up their paintwork need to carefully consider if this is something you are competent in doing. It will cost more for a professional detailer to rectify a poor attempt, than the detailer doing the job in the first place. Specially of you're working with darker colours, this takes a huge amount of knowledge and skill to get right, and not leave holograms, buffer trails, burnt edges and so on.
I use a machine polisher pretty much 5 days a week, but the surfaces I work on, are not the same as a car, so i'm not in the best position to advise on products, but I know enough to know a DA polisher is safer to use on paint than a Rotary, if you are a novice.
We use Rotary simply because we need a very aggressive machine to cut out the issues we fix on fibreglass and aluminium.
I've always used the Dewalt DWP894X polisher. It's a very balanced and very powerful machine, and although it's quite a heavy machine at just over 3kgs, it is super reliable, and only ever needs brushes now and again, and the odd speed control module if any water gets inside the main trigger. They are around £150-£200, and available from Machine Mart. We have 6 of these, and 1 of them is nearly 10 years old, and still sounds as good as the newest one.
@T6180 might be able to help a little more, as he's just gone through all the research on machines, and spent a small fortune on stuff to do his HIMSELF well away from any locations in Leicester
Duel action and Rotary being the most commonly used, and they range from very cheap, to very expensive as with most things.
However, without sounding condescending, or at least trying not too. Anyone that thinks they can just pick up a machine polisher, and 'buff' up their paintwork need to carefully consider if this is something you are competent in doing. It will cost more for a professional detailer to rectify a poor attempt, than the detailer doing the job in the first place. Specially of you're working with darker colours, this takes a huge amount of knowledge and skill to get right, and not leave holograms, buffer trails, burnt edges and so on.
I use a machine polisher pretty much 5 days a week, but the surfaces I work on, are not the same as a car, so i'm not in the best position to advise on products, but I know enough to know a DA polisher is safer to use on paint than a Rotary, if you are a novice.
We use Rotary simply because we need a very aggressive machine to cut out the issues we fix on fibreglass and aluminium.
I've always used the Dewalt DWP894X polisher. It's a very balanced and very powerful machine, and although it's quite a heavy machine at just over 3kgs, it is super reliable, and only ever needs brushes now and again, and the odd speed control module if any water gets inside the main trigger. They are around £150-£200, and available from Machine Mart. We have 6 of these, and 1 of them is nearly 10 years old, and still sounds as good as the newest one.
@T6180 might be able to help a little more, as he's just gone through all the research on machines, and spent a small fortune on stuff to do his HIMSELF well away from any locations in Leicester
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There are several different types of machine polisher.
Duel action and Rotary being the most commonly used, and they range from very cheap, to very expensive as with most things.
However, without sounding condescending, or at least trying not too. Anyone that thinks they can just pick up a machine polisher, and 'buff' up their paintwork need to carefully consider if this is something you are competent in doing. It will cost more for a professional detailer to rectify a poor attempt, than the detailer doing the job in the first place. Specially of you're working with darker colours, this takes a huge amount of knowledge and skill to get right, and not leave holograms, buffer trails, burnt edges and so on.
I use a machine polisher pretty much 5 days a week, but the surfaces I work on, are not the same as a car, so i'm not in the best position to advise on products, but I know enough to know a DA polisher is safer to use on paint than a Rotary, if you are a novice.
We use Rotary simply because we need a very aggressive machine to cut out the issues we fix on fibreglass and aluminium.
I've always used the Dewalt DWP894X polisher. It's a very balanced and very powerful machine, and although it's quite a heavy machine at just over 3kgs, it is super reliable, and only ever needs brushes now and again, and the odd speed control module if any water gets inside the main trigger. They are around £150-£200, and available from Machine Mart. We have 6 of these, and 1 of them is nearly 10 years old, and still sounds as good as the newest one.
@T6180 might be able to help a little more, as he's just gone through all the research on machines, and spent a small fortune on stuff to do his HIMSELF well away from any locations in Leicester
@Duncan Mowlem I've just bought the carbon collective DA 15mm throw ...its a Das 6 Pro Plus in disguise and I got 15% off last bank holiday ...my research said if you stick to this type of polisher you cant go to far wrong...it then boils down to technique
I used a 110v Portercable for a few years back when I was really into detailing, great machines, but I think there are better options now.
I progressed to a Metabo rotary, the first time I used it I helped my bro take a scratch out his rear wheel arch on a 4 week old Range Rover Sport, went through the clear coat and down to the bone in about 5 seconds.
Lesson learnt the hard way.
I progressed to a Metabo rotary, the first time I used it I helped my bro take a scratch out his rear wheel arch on a 4 week old Range Rover Sport, went through the clear coat and down to the bone in about 5 seconds.
Lesson learnt the hard way.
went through the clear coat and down to the bone in about 5 seconds.
Lesson learnt the hard way.
All the best lessons are learned on someone else's carI used a 110v Portercable for a few years back when I was really into detailing, great machines, but I think there are better options now.
I progressed to a Metabo rotary, the first time I used it I helped my bro take a scratch out his rear wheel arch on a 4 week old Range Rover Sport, went through the clear coat and down to the bone in about 5 seconds.
Lesson learnt the hard way.
Or go to a local converters, ask for window cut outs or a roof to practise on
All the best lessons are learned on someone else's car
I felt obliged to pay for the damage, which was about £300.
But far worse than that is that a good mate is a proper panel beater, he did the repair for me and I never, ever heard the end of him taking the pee about me using a 'Fisher Price toy polisher' on my bro's car.
Or go to a local converters, ask for window cut outs or a roof to practise on
You ever seen that scene in 'Final Destination' where the kid is stood next to the train track and that sheet of metal gets thrown up by the train?
You ever seen that scene in 'Final Destination' where the kid is stood next to the train track and that sheet of metal gets thrown up by the train?
Nope
, but I can guess. Reminds me of when I was stood at the edge of a piste and a snow board came past at waist height. (no one riding it at the time lol)
DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT get a standard rotary machine unless you know what you are doing as you will wreck your paint or leave massive buffer trails everywhere.
Get a DA machine such as a DAS 6.
This will cover everything you need
DAS-6 PRO - Chemical Guys Complete Kit
Get a DA machine such as a DAS 6.
This will cover everything you need
DAS-6 PRO - Chemical Guys Complete Kit
I have unwittingly become a detailing pedant over various cars. Whilst there are people far more experienced on here to comment authoritatively, a couple of what I think are very important points spring to mind. The first is always clay bar prior to getting the DA out. The bonded in crap that comes off with clay alone always surprises me. If you don't get that off prior to polishing the end result will always be substandard. The second is that some paint is hard, some is very soft. I had a 2010 C6 RS6 - hardest paint ever. Took ages with different pads and compounds to get a result. 2013 Cayenne, very soft.... Different approaches needed to each, the skill of which is only learnt with experience. There is nothing like a craftsman doing their job. Full on paint correction is best left to the professionals, unless you have 40+ hours to gently polish and finesse. Followed by ceramic and other trim coatings, then leaving the thing in the garage for a couple of days whilst it goes off.... I generally get more pleasure these days by cleaning the interiors and keeping that environment spotless, as it is the bit I'm looking at most....
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