Led Light Glow Courtesy Setting.

You could fit the resistor just to + and door switched -ve you don’t need a resistor for the perm -ve as it’s physically open circuit when not in use so no leakage j how you’ve drawn it above is still ok though.
I thought about that, but in scenario where I have switched the LEDS off using the switch, the resistor will then bypass that and carry on that parasitic load won’t it? I suppose the way in my diagram if switch is off then there is no load at all. But as you say it’s going to be negligible either way.

I guess the other calculation is what affect the resistor has when LEDS are on in that parallel circuit… but once again I suspect it is negligible again.
 
In the off position which I don’t think you have drawn Ie a third position on the switch where the middle pole isn’t connected to either the door switched -ve or perm -ve there is no path to -ve so no current will be drawn at all

And yes if you know the resistance of the leds you could work out current wasted through the resistor but again you are correct it’s negligible
 
Tried to edit message above but wouldn't let me ...

I encountered the same issue, initially I tried to be clever thinking about a relay to isolate circuits but conversion shop said if I combine earths on Leisure and Starter Battery then having three way operation of the light while powered by Leisure battery was relatively simple. They set it up and all looked good until I saw the feint glow at night when doors locked. I assume they wired as below.

So to stop the glow, I assume the resistor can be placed as close as possible to the LED light connectors?

OR Wait .... is it more complicated than that when using +ve from Leisure Battery and 3 way switch (Door Operated, Always on, Always off) - Does following proposed diagram look right for resistor position? @Deaky @Dellmassive

View attachment 139019


Trying to remember my electrical engineering course - far too long ago!!! What power will that resistor pull from the Leisure battery as a parasitic load when everything is off but small current leak through BCM Door Switched -ve?

Is it as simple as this - so negligible?
W = V2 / R (Ohms)
0.144 W = 12*12 / 1000


Or is it even less than that, because the VAN BCM Door Switched -ve restricts it further?
That’s how I’ve done it.
 
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