Knocking from offside front

[t6_tom]

Hi - I have a TG 16 Cali Ocean, standard apart from aftermarket dampers.

Was driving around the country roads today was thinking I could hear a knocking, then my 3 year old commented on it.....

When I hit a bump on the nearside i can hear it on the offside, when I hit offside bump, hear it offside.

When parked up, giving the van a proper shove upwards on the doorframe from the offside I can hear it coming from the offside, from nearside can hear something tapping on the offside.

I'm thinking something on the antiroll bar? Any other ideas?

If I stick my head under it without jacking it am I likely to be able to see a problem before I have a chat with VW, it is under warranty however I doubt they will honor it given the aftermarket dampers.

Thanks in advance

 

[Cornishman]

Possibly a worn drop link ball joint ,to test pull and push to see if any play

 

[t6_tom]

Possibly a worn drop link ball joint ,to test pull and push to see if any play

can I do this with the wheel removed and jacked up, or should I have the wheel loaded. Thanks

 

[Cornishman]

No you need wheel loaded easy to check on four post ramp no so on the floor

 

[t6_tom]

Thanks. Managed to have a quick look just by turning the wheel.

To my untrained eye the bolt that joins the top of the drop link to the shock in the picture looks very loose.

Done a bit of spannering on motorbikes so I was thinking I could tighten it myself. I'm assuming it's a matter of just removing the wheel and tightening it up. does anyone know what the correct torque should be?

I only have a 3 tonne trolley jack no axle stands. I would never go underneath a vehicle on a trolley jack but I can do this from the side. am I being stupid to do it on just a trolley jack or should I go and get some axle stands as well?



Thanks!!

 

[Paynewright]

Haynes manual for the T5 states 60nm plus 45 degrees. Also states should be replaced if removed which most garages never bother doing. The stud of the ball joint has a torx / allan hole in the end so you can stop it spinning when tightening it up.

I would do it with just a jack but, as you say, I would never go underneath it. Even on axle stands I tend to push the removed wheel under the vehicle as a back up.

Ian

 

[DXX]

Thanks. Managed to have a quick look just by turning the wheel.

To my untrained eye the bolt that joins the top of the drop link to the shock in the picture looks very loose.

Done a bit of spannering on motorbikes so I was thinking I could tighten it myself. I'm assuming it's a matter of just removing the wheel and tightening it up. does anyone know what the correct torque should be?

I only have a 3 tonne trolley jack no axle stands. I would never go underneath a vehicle on a trolley jack but I can do this from the side. am I being stupid to do it on just a trolley jack or should I go and get some axle stands as well?

View attachment 101064

Thanks!!

I would remove it and inspect, it could be worn where it has been rubbing when loose.

 

[RedUn]

Thanks. Managed to have a quick look just by turning the wheel.

To my untrained eye the bolt that joins the top of the drop link to the shock in the picture looks very loose.

Done a bit of spannering on motorbikes so I was thinking I could tighten it myself. I'm assuming it's a matter of just removing the wheel and tightening it up. does anyone know what the correct torque should be?

I only have a 3 tonne trolley jack no axle stands. I would never go underneath a vehicle on a trolley jack but I can do this from the side. am I being stupid to do it on just a trolley jack or should I go and get some axle stands as well?

View attachment 101064

Thanks!!

Tighten it up for now and see if the knocking goes, they only need the smallest bit of movement to make a knocking sound so it's probably that.

When they are eventually worn, swap them for some meyle hd ones

 

[t6_tom]

Thanks everyone, all your replies are really helpful. I'm new here but this is a great forum.

I forgot that I have got a copy of the full pdf manual stored away. @Paynewright , the torque is the same, thanks for looking it up though.

I also noticed this paragraph though, so my original plan to jack one side is out. Even before I read it I was thinking that by doing that I am going to have the ARB under pressure.




For the moment I will just try and tighten it, I was thinking about getting uprated ARB's anyway as being a cali there is a fair bit or weight up top.

Thanks all!!

 

[Paynewright]

I think for nipping it up you’ll be fine. I’m changing both drop links shortly so will undo and free one joint while its on the ground then I can swap them out, bolting up the last joint with it on its wheels

Or I may jack up both sides and stick it on stands.

Ian

 

[RedUn]

Thanks everyone, all your replies are really helpful. I'm new here but this is a great forum.

I forgot that I have got a copy of the full pdf manual stored away. @Paynewright , the torque is the same, thanks for looking it up though.

I also noticed this paragraph though, so my original plan to jack one side is out. Even before I read it I was thinking that by doing that I am going to have the ARB under pressure.

View attachment 101124


For the moment I will just try and tighten it, I was thinking about getting uprated ARB's anyway as being a cali there is a fair bit or weight up top.

Thanks all!!

H&R arbs will sort you out

 

[Grim Reaper]

I think the best way is to jack the front up and get it on stands, then you can remove the links with little or no torsion on the bar and easy access to the fixings with the wheels off.
Installing new ones is then a case of connecting the new links to the anti roll bar first at both ends, seeing which end has its link top fixing mating hole highest (either at or above bolt height) and fixing this end first.
It is then a simple case of putting a jack under the remaining side disc and raising it to the point that the link bolt will go through the hole and tighten the nut.
If you have adjustable links then simply adjust the length of the second link to get it in the hole.
The ideal starting point is connection with no torsion on the bar.
Once all nuts are tight the jack can be removed, wheels reattached and the van can be lowered to the ground as normal