Is my solar panel cooked???

fromt22t6

Member
I've recently noticed a lack of charging of my leisure battery from solar. Putting it down to the current Scottish weather. However, today its in full sun and not doing anything.

Solar input across the ctek250se is 1.1V with the CTEK in rest mode. No solar light coming on. If I switch on the ignition, the CTEK comes alive and the alternator charges the leisure as it should. The solar voltage then rises but only to 3.2V - and still the solar charge light stays off.

Here's a photo of the panel on the vinyl wrapped SCA roof
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And the entrance hole for the cable at the passenger side rear corner:

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which then pops out into the ctek here:

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I cant find a way of checking the voltage at the panel itself - other than cutting the wire under the pop top.

and if the panel is cooked, how to replace it - looks like a lot of sikaflex around it - on a vinyl roof.......?
 
Looks like there is only one earth cable on the CTEK. Where does the negative from the Solar panel go? Worth checking that is a) still connected and b) is a decent earth.
 
Looks like there is only one earth cable on the CTEK. Where does the negative from the Solar panel go? Worth checking that is a) still connected and b) is a decent earth.

i think it goes direct to the battery - should i move it to the ctek?
 
i think it goes direct to the battery - should i move it to the ctek?
No need to move it, just test it is actually connected properly and is a good earth (which it should be if it is directly on the battery)
 
If you disconnect the two leads that supply the panel... +ve and -ve and check the resistance of the panel in isolation...

It should give you an ohmic reading... if its open circuit then i would say its definately goosed...
 
If you disconnect the two leads that supply the panel... +ve and -ve and check the resistance of the panel in isolation...

It should give you an ohmic reading... if its open circuit then i would say its definately goosed...
If you have it disconnected, measure the voltage across the wires with nothing connected as well (in good light obviously). If that shows a decent voltage then you have a poor connection somewhere between the cable and battery. As the +ve is directly connected to the CTEK, it’s more likely on the -ve Side.

If it shows opens circuit across the wires, The problem could still be in the wiring rather than the panel, so work your way back from the point you measure towards the panel to see if there is any obvious damage to the cable. I imagine there is a joint in the cable somewhere between panel and CTEK, if you know where that is, take a look at it to make sure it is still mechanically and electrically sound.
 
If you disconnect the two leads that supply the panel... +ve and -ve and check the resistance of the panel in isolation...

It should give you an ohmic reading... if its open circuit then i would say its definately goosed...

Yip. i think its done.
 
If you have it disconnected, measure the voltage across the wires with nothing connected as well (in good light obviously). If that shows a decent voltage then you have a poor connection somewhere between the cable and battery. As the +ve is directly connected to the CTEK, it’s more likely on the -ve Side.

If it shows opens circuit across the wires, The problem could still be in the wiring rather than the panel, so work your way back from the point you measure towards the panel to see if there is any obvious damage to the cable. I imagine there is a joint in the cable somewhere between panel and CTEK, if you know where that is, take a look at it to make sure it is still mechanically and electrically sound.

cheers. I've traced the wires as best i can, and cant find any faults. there is a trapped air area under the panel - im guessing this might have over-heated and caused the issue.


Next question - can a panel be bonded over an old one, or will i need to cheese wire the old one off???
 
Pity you can't get on the wires directly at the panel... or junction box where they join to check resistance...

If you're changing the panel I definitely wouldn't bond one to the top of the goosed one... off with the old one for me...
 
My PV logic flexi panel recently failed and was replaced under warranty - the guys at Solar Technology International advised that I leave the original in situ and bond the replacement on top - wish I’d listened to them!!
 
cheers. I've traced the wires as best i can, and cant find any faults. there is a trapped air area under the panel - im guessing this might have over-heated and caused the issue.


Next question - can a panel be bonded over an old one, or will i need to cheese wire the old one off???


you need to remote the old one . . . . .

some more info on removing a stuck down panel here:


more people are now putting vinyl wrap under the panel on the roof to make removing them easier . . . . . . .

and here:



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