Help Me On This One!

[Dominic W]

So, a couple of months ago, I had my van ply-lined and LED's fitted in to the ceiling. Done by a local van customiser. These lights run on a separate switch to allow for operation when camping etc. Yesterday when checking my under bonnet levels I noticed the lighting wiring. The company had used a domestic door bell two core wire, with no visible signs of a fuse, direct to the battery.
When questioned, the company said that because of the current draw from the lights, the wire was suitable, and due to their routing of the wire, there was no chance of any wiring fault requiring the protection of a fuse.
Surely this is all rubbish! It must be best practice not to wire directly to the battery without any fuse protection. The wire itself may be able to handle the load, but cannot be deemed suitable due to the potential under bonnet temperatures and contact with grease and oil etc.
What do the collective think? What is my course of action?

 

[Deaky]

So, a couple of months ago, I had my van ply-lined and LED's fitted in to the ceiling. Done by a local van customiser. These lights run on a separate switch to allow for operation when camping etc. Yesterday when checking my under bonnet levels I noticed the lighting wiring. The company had used a domestic door bell two core wire, with no visible signs of a fuse, direct to the battery.
When questioned, the company said that because of the current draw from the lights, the wire was suitable, and due to their routing of the wire, there was no chance of any wiring fault requiring the protection of a fuse.
Surely this is all rubbish! It must be best practice not to wire directly to the battery without any fuse protection. The wire itself may be able to handle the load, but cannot be deemed suitable due to the potential under bonnet temperatures and contact with grease and oil etc.
What do the collective think? What is my course of action?

It's dangerous. Every circuit should be protected by a fuse.

 

[Dominic W]

That's what I thought. They have offered to put a fuse in. Not sure on the wire used. Am I worrying too much?

 

[DaveyB]

That's what I thought. They have offered to put a fuse in. Not sure on the wire used. Am I worrying too much?

With a fuse you’ll be fine. You’ll actually find that the “bell wire” is what comes already soldered onto the led units, because the current draw is so low. They will have just spliced then altogether somewhere and then just continued one of the lines back to the battery.

 

[Dilbert]

Even if the wire rating is adequate, you should have some more mechanical protection. I would expect it to be double insulated at minimum but preferably in split conduit.

 

[Wills]

I wouldn't be happy with the installation and would trace it back to a suitable point and replace the bell wire with automotive grade wiring. Then route it to the van's fuse box. So The T6 Caught Fire

 

[Loz]

Shocking!

 

[Fish]

Name and shame

 

[Dellmassive]

100% correct.

It needs to be fused down to 1/2/5 amp depending on the load of the LEDs.

The fuse needs to be within 6/12 inches of the source... ie battery pickup.

Bell or speaker wire is ok for the load rating, but as mentioned above you would expect some additional protection like cloth tape to make it a loom or 5/10mm split convoluted tube.

Are you sure it's direct off the battery and not off a already fused supply?

Got any pictures for us?

Without a fuse.... if the wire shorted out it would burn the wire untill it glowed red hot and the insulation could catch fire if it's not LSF or burn proof. Either way it's not good and needs a fuse.

 

[Loz]

...plus, bellwire usually has a solid conductor and that could break at the connection point under vibration..

 

[DaveyB]

So here are some that I took out of my van as they were not dimmable.
They are units made for camper van installation, and have what effectively could be described as “bell wire”, and I surmise this is what @Dominic W is describing.
However as @Loz suggests it is not solid single core, it is multi strand.
So for me, and I am no expert, have never professed to be; but....... if these are the units that can be bought for this exact application then the wiring is fine, but as many have suggested, really need to go through a fuse.