I have a T5.1 with the 180 BiT and when I had to replace the engine due to the usual issues the new one was relieved of its EGR cooler to prevent it happening again. Very easy to do, just switched it out with the oil filter housing assembly off a 140. If your T6 is the Euro5 I believe this is identical.
What do you want to know about it?
- You need a different filter when you service it.
- I have never had an issue with an MoT.
- Some would frown upon the removal of devices that reduce emissions, but frankly scrapping an engine at 60k miles is pretty unfriendly to the world too and I don’t intend to repeat this.
What do you want to know about it?
- You need a different filter when you service it.
- I have never had an issue with an MoT.
- Some would frown upon the removal of devices that reduce emissions, but frankly scrapping an engine at 60k miles is pretty unfriendly to the world too and I don’t intend to repeat this.
Agreed!
Yup mine is no longer. What do you need to know?
So I’m on a euro 5. My remap guy has said he will install the shim and do the map for £240. I’m happy with that price.
The van is due it’s belt and water pump, should I get this done first as if I take take it to Vw they might ask questions
When I get the van serviced from now on do I need to tell them? So they can do the different filter? What is the new filter for reference?
What are the longer term implications, how many miles have you done since the removal? Any long term impacts? Does it smoke or anything?
Thanks
The van is due it’s belt and water pump, should I get this done first as if I take take it to Vw they might ask questions
When I get the van serviced from now on do I need to tell them? So they can do the different filter? What is the new filter for reference?
What are the longer term implications, how many miles have you done since the removal? Any long term impacts? Does it smoke or anything?
Thanks
EGR Delete
As far as the engine goes, I think an EGR delete would be worth it post extended warranty..
There is a lot of information in that thread that should help you make your mind up.
To answer your questions:
- If you go down the blanking plate and remap route you have to look really really closely to see anything has even changed. I went with the entire removal and replacement option because the engine was out anyway and I wanted to smash the old EGR cooler into a zillion pieces to make me feel 0.001% happier about the situation. You won't have this problem.
- If you do this and your original cooler remains, just blanked off, the oil filter won't change either. Only if you replace the unit with the one from the 140 engine (for reference the p/n is 03L115562 for the paper element filter here).
- Can't really comment on what to tell VW as I do my own servicing and would rather lick my armpit than go see a VW dealer again. They would need to avoid overwriting the new engine map, but up to you what you tell them.
- The main longer term impact is that my new engine should last 5 times as long as the first one did. I have done about 30k miles since it was removed. There is no additional smoke or anything - since you are not recyling crappy dirty air, it all burns cleaner than before, but not an amount you would ever discern anyway.
To answer your questions:
- If you go down the blanking plate and remap route you have to look really really closely to see anything has even changed. I went with the entire removal and replacement option because the engine was out anyway and I wanted to smash the old EGR cooler into a zillion pieces to make me feel 0.001% happier about the situation. You won't have this problem.
- If you do this and your original cooler remains, just blanked off, the oil filter won't change either. Only if you replace the unit with the one from the 140 engine (for reference the p/n is 03L115562 for the paper element filter here).
- Can't really comment on what to tell VW as I do my own servicing and would rather lick my armpit than go see a VW dealer again. They would need to avoid overwriting the new engine map, but up to you what you tell them.
- The main longer term impact is that my new engine should last 5 times as long as the first one did. I have done about 30k miles since it was removed. There is no additional smoke or anything - since you are not recyling crappy dirty air, it all burns cleaner than before, but not an amount you would ever discern anyway.
I am looking at the blanking plate and remap option. Thanks for all that feedback @WillWillWill
The more I’m reading the more I’m deleting! My remapper guy says the only negative is that the dog may fill up sooner. Is that correct? I suppose this is my main concern that I’m just moving a problem to another part of the engine.
The more I’m reading the more I’m deleting! My remapper guy says the only negative is that the dog may fill up sooner. Is that correct? I suppose this is my main concern that I’m just moving a problem to another part of the engine.
The DPF blocking is really all about the kind of trips you do. If you are doing short trips all the time there is a good chance your DPF won’t get a chance to regenerate but if you are doing longer journeys you should be ok. You could go the next step and delete the DPF.
Without the egr and dpf you may find yourself failing the mot, at work we had a Fiat Doblo that was always trying to regen as it only did short journeys and then constantly blocked up the dpf. So we had a blanked off egr valve, the dpf knocked out and then a bodge to stop the engine light coming on.
But at mot time it had visible smoke which was a fail, so we tried Redex and an Italian tune up but we could not get past the visible smoke and we had to scrap it in the end at just over 5 years old because it wasn’t economical to add all that crap back on it again.
But at mot time it had visible smoke which was a fail, so we tried Redex and an Italian tune up but we could not get past the visible smoke and we had to scrap it in the end at just over 5 years old because it wasn’t economical to add all that crap back on it again.
I made enquires about egr delete for my euro 5 t6 ,i was told I would need to remove the dpf as well. Without the egr the dpf will not regen and eventually block...I'd be interested if other people know differently?
I am on a forum specifically based around the EGR cooler issues with the 180 BiT engine. There is a fairly even mix of people who have either kept or got rid of their DPF following EGR removal or blanking, and I haven't seen anyone complain about one or the other direction causing further problems. When I researched the problem initially I was told (by a very reputable company who have replaced hundreds of these engines) that it was your own choice of whether to keep or get rid of the DPF. I would be more concerned about your driving habits etc. with regards to the DPF blocking or not. I do not believe there is any reason that removing the cooler will prevent the DPF from regenerating, certainly not if you get a map from someone who knows what they are doing.
