looks good to me.
[Guide] Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -
- Thread starter Dellmassive
- Start date
So I’m using my set up in the field for the first time. Gorgeous sunny day, about 22°c, no shade on the panel, but according g to the Victron app I’m only getting 5-6w from the panel and it’s in float mode which I guess means the leisure battery is pretty full. My fridge is on EHU, so with no loads to speak of, is the MPPT capping the power from the panel, or is my panel Donald Ducked?
As ever, very grateful for any expertise or advice.
Yes your correct.
The battery is full, charger is in float....
So there is now where for the power to go, hence the 5w trickle.
If you turn on all your 12v loads, you will notice the battery voltage will drop, them the charger will move to bulk mode.
Brilliant. Thank you. Nice to have it confirmed!
Higgeee
Member
Evening all,
After some help please. I’ve inherited a 100w suitcase panel and the idea is to connect this direct to my Ctek split charger and use the inbuilt Mppt controller.
I therefore need to remove the inbuilt controller on the panel but which wires do I need to keep for the positive and negative so I can wire this direct into the ctek? Once I’m clear on this then I’ll need to crimp some new cable from the panel direct to the ctek. Any ideas?
Cheers
After some help please. I’ve inherited a 100w suitcase panel and the idea is to connect this direct to my Ctek split charger and use the inbuilt Mppt controller.
I therefore need to remove the inbuilt controller on the panel but which wires do I need to keep for the positive and negative so I can wire this direct into the ctek? Once I’m clear on this then I’ll need to crimp some new cable from the panel direct to the ctek. Any ideas?
Cheers
Un wire the panel feed from the old controller.
This one.
And wire to the ctek via a quick disconnect plug.
.
.
This one.
And wire to the ctek via a quick disconnect plug.
.
.
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Why not just have a plug that connects straight onto the battery from the solar panel & keep the onboard controller? Ctek aren’t that reliable, they have a relatively low solar input voltage limit, by keeping the portable panel “standalone” you’re adding redundancy to your system. If the Ctek goes tits up, you can still use solar.
Exactly this. You’re going to all the trouble of bypassing an mppt controller to wire it back into an mppt controller. Makes little sense.
My ctek had an issue in Spain last year and I lost dc-dc and solar so I had to keep searching out EHU every 3 days. I now use a Victron mppt even though I fixed the ctek (failed relay-nothing up with the ctek).
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Hi @Dellmassive
Hi Lee, thank you so much for all the information you've provided in this thread and many others.
I've ardently read through everything, and watched videos......but if I could possibly ask some questions (in brackets) as I'm keen to put a solar trickle setup to my SB, my proposal is below based on your thread:
I have an Anker 100w solar panel I wish to place on the dash, or outside if camping.
The panel will have MC4 connectors, so I wish to take a lead from here to the Voltage Controller, which I can easily detach.
(would it be appropriate to have MC4s at the panel end and an Anderson connection near to the Controller, so I can easily detach and leave the tails from the controller with half the Anderson on it.....If so, what cross section of wire and rating for the Anderson would be required?)
The controller {Renology, Wanderer 10A} I wish to mount kind of under the glove box area, so it basically stays in situ and the panel can be quickly taken off the dash and put away.
The load from the controlller, again I wish to be joined via an Anderson connector to a wire (Ctek lead) which will, somehow go through the bulkhead and join to another Ctek connector to the battery +ve {with fuse} and a ground. (if this sounds viable...again what cross section wire would be suitable and what size fuse?)
The reason I would like the Ctek setup is merely so I can switch the solar setup to a Ctek trickle charger under the bonnet should I so wish.
(I notice you mention the inclusion of a diode, where and how would I insert this into the circuit)
I apologise that I am a complete amateur at electrics, and I hope the above makes some kind of sense.
Once again thank you in advance, if you need anymore info please ask, clearly feel free to critique
yours sincerely
Alistair
Hi Lee, thank you so much for all the information you've provided in this thread and many others.
I've ardently read through everything, and watched videos......but if I could possibly ask some questions (in brackets) as I'm keen to put a solar trickle setup to my SB, my proposal is below based on your thread:
I have an Anker 100w solar panel I wish to place on the dash, or outside if camping.
The panel will have MC4 connectors, so I wish to take a lead from here to the Voltage Controller, which I can easily detach.
(would it be appropriate to have MC4s at the panel end and an Anderson connection near to the Controller, so I can easily detach and leave the tails from the controller with half the Anderson on it.....If so, what cross section of wire and rating for the Anderson would be required?)
The controller {Renology, Wanderer 10A} I wish to mount kind of under the glove box area, so it basically stays in situ and the panel can be quickly taken off the dash and put away.
The load from the controlller, again I wish to be joined via an Anderson connector to a wire (Ctek lead) which will, somehow go through the bulkhead and join to another Ctek connector to the battery +ve {with fuse} and a ground. (if this sounds viable...again what cross section wire would be suitable and what size fuse?)
The reason I would like the Ctek setup is merely so I can switch the solar setup to a Ctek trickle charger under the bonnet should I so wish.
(I notice you mention the inclusion of a diode, where and how would I insert this into the circuit)
I apologise that I am a complete amateur at electrics, and I hope the above makes some kind of sense.
Once again thank you in advance, if you need anymore info please ask, clearly feel free to critique
yours sincerely
Alistair
I'm glad the info has helped.Hi @Dellmassive
Hi Lee, thank you so much for all the information you've provided in this thread and many others.
I've ardently read through everything, and watched videos......but if I could possibly ask some questions (in brackets) as I'm keen to put a solar trickle setup to my SB, my proposal is below based on your thread:
I have an Anker 100w solar panel I wish to place on the dash, or outside if camping.
The panel will have MC4 connectors, so I wish to take a lead from here to the Voltage Controller, which I can easily detach.
(would it be appropriate to have MC4s at the panel end and an Anderson connection near to the Controller, so I can easily detach and leave the tails from the controller with half the Anderson on it.....If so, what cross section of wire and rating for the Anderson would be required?)
The controller {Renology, Wanderer 10A} I wish to mount kind of under the glove box area, so it basically stays in situ and the panel can be quickly taken off the dash and put away.
The load from the controlller, again I wish to be joined via an Anderson connector to a wire (Ctek lead) which will, somehow go through the bulkhead and join to another Ctek connector to the battery +ve {with fuse} and a ground. (if this sounds viable...again what cross section wire would be suitable and what size fuse?)
The reason I would like the Ctek setup is merely so I can switch the solar setup to a Ctek trickle charger under the bonnet should I so wish.
(I notice you mention the inclusion of a diode, where and how would I insert this into the circuit)
I apologise that I am a complete amateur at electrics, and I hope the above makes some kind of sense.
Once again thank you in advance, if you need anymore info please ask, clearly feel free to critique
yours sincerely
Alistair
Can you do a rough sketch of your plans and post here?
We'll have a quick look.
But rough ideas... For 100w panel is 6A max. So I would use 2.5mm cable or larger.
Hi Lee
wow that was quick, thank you so much. Sorry I should have put a diagram to make life easy, Hopefully the below assists.
I've been looking at 12v Planet (supplier of electrical fittings etc) BTW they seem to have MC$ connectors with a 10A diode within them, just a thought?
Once again many thanks for this. Ali
@Dellmassive
wow that was quick, thank you so much. Sorry I should have put a diagram to make life easy, Hopefully the below assists.
I've been looking at 12v Planet (supplier of electrical fittings etc) BTW they seem to have MC$ connectors with a 10A diode within them, just a thought?
Once again many thanks for this. Ali
@Dellmassive
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yep, all looks good.
No diode needed.
take a look at swapping out the solar controller for the awsome Victron 75/15.
that will give you some BT monitoring and an APP to keep track of things.
.
I'd consider using MC4 in all places on the solar side, and Anderson only on the battery side - nothing wrong with what you have drawn but using the expected connector for the job is likely to save future mistakes.
I'd also consider keeping the CTEK as a separate thing. Both will work just fine alongside each other.
If you do go down the route as drawn you probably want to disconnect the solar side if you disconnect the battery side to plug in a 240v charger - the CTEK connectors are reasonably well shrouded but if you leave the panel connected it's still going to be generating and there may be quite a voltage (and potential short) on the now hanging in the engine bay loose CTEK connector.
I'd also consider keeping the CTEK as a separate thing. Both will work just fine alongside each other.
If you do go down the route as drawn you probably want to disconnect the solar side if you disconnect the battery side to plug in a 240v charger - the CTEK connectors are reasonably well shrouded but if you leave the panel connected it's still going to be generating and there may be quite a voltage (and potential short) on the now hanging in the engine bay loose CTEK connector.
Hi Lee
that's brilliant thank you so much for your quick response and I will swap out the Voltage controller as advised.
Take care and good luck with all your adventures.
Cheers Ali
if (when) we catch up at one of the gatherings, the beers are on me.
that's brilliant thank you so much for your quick response and I will swap out the Voltage controller as advised.
Take care and good luck with all your adventures.
Cheers Ali
if (when) we catch up at one of the gatherings, the beers are on me.
Hi huge thanks too, yes that all makes sense I will revise, great safety points.
As for Lee, beers on me, thank you.
Ali
Again big thanks to Lee @Dellmassive
I've taken a steady approach to sorting this, and got it all up and running, so pleased with the voltage charger suggested, as you can see how its all functioning through the APP.
Here's some photos:
In the cab, I've mounted the VC to a plate as I'm not sure where I may mount it, if I ever do
and the battery feed goes through the usual route under the glove compartment into the engine bay behind the battery.
TBH, all I did was to pull the plate down behind the battery (pull back rubber sleeve along scuttle and remove two bolts)
Poke the wire through the grommit and it appeared in the passenger well after I had pulled the carpet back in the corner. super simples.
This was then routed to the central part of the dash.
And the panel is held in place at an angle on the dashboard with a super high tech approach, of a broom handle. Van faces south all day on the driveway.
The Anker Solix 100w panel is certainly not the cheapest but excellent quality.
So its all in place, again thank you everyone.
One Question.......can I leave it in place and it will cycle, bulk, float etc so that its keeping the battery maintained?
Cheers Ali
Looks like a neat set up in the end - and yes the Victron MPPT is very popular because a modest increase in budget gives a lot of additional fucntionality.
If you fancy tinkering have a look in the App at the settings you can use for the "LOAD" terminal as it's an often overlooked function of the lower current MPPT units - for instance you can configure it as a basic battery protect relay that you might find useful if you power something like a fridge while camping - or maybe a dashcam while parked up
Yep - though you might get drop outs when there isn't enough sun - will be fine on a lead acid chemistry battery.
If you fancy tinkering have a look in the App at the settings you can use for the "LOAD" terminal as it's an often overlooked function of the lower current MPPT units - for instance you can configure it as a basic battery protect relay that you might find useful if you power something like a fridge while camping - or maybe a dashcam while parked up
Thank you great advice I will have a look at the App, amazing whats out there these days.
Cheers Ali
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