DPF light on and start up smoke - should I buy?

[Bigsidavies]

I know prices have gone silly, but 3 1/2 years ago I bought my 2017 (3 yrs old) 204bitdi 4 mo highline from VW with 12 month warranty and roadside assistance for £21k incl VAT.
How is a 2yr older model with issues costing more now-over 3 years later?
Seems top dollar to me.

 

[FerrisBFW]

I know prices have gone silly, but 3 1/2 years ago I bought my 2017 (3 yrs old) 204bitdi 4 mo highline from VW with 12 month warranty and roadside assistance for £21k incl VAT.
How is a 2yr older model with issues costing more now-over 3 years later?
Seems top dollar to me.

Diesel is now no good, so there is 15 years plus of dev time down the drain. Petrol doesnt really work in most of these vehicles, so they have stopped making them. No void has been filled with an EV - it just isnt going to really work in these types of vehicles/for most people and the cost has gone up...

 

[FerrisBFW]

I keep think when the ratio of oil to fuel goes to far the wrong way I will put a new engine in my old Caravelle, because £10k is a lot cheaper than £30k I will need to add to the value of mine for a newer 4motion Caravelle, AND being a 204 it might also have a p00h engine!

 

[Broadside]

Tricky one.

The dpf light on will normally mean spending money. Either on EGR cooler or a replacement dpf.

It's it a pre adblue version eu5? If so no adblue.

What's the mileage?

My DPF light came on today, cleared again after a 20 min drive, first time I have ever seen it.

I think I’ve got a dodgy EGR cooler as my van’s been losing a bit of coolant occasionally, I’m interested in why you think the DPF light might be connected to a bad EGR.

My garage haven’t so far diagnosed the EGR being at fault but if it is putting the DPF at risk then I would be minded to swap it more quickly. What do you think?

 

[peteaufc]

My DPF light came on today, cleared again after a 20 min drive, first time I have ever seen it.

I think I’ve got a dodgy EGR cooler as my van’s been losing a bit of coolant occasionally, I’m interested in why you think the DPF light might be connected to a bad EGR.

My garage haven’t so far diagnosed the EGR being at fault but if it is putting the DPF at risk then I would be minded to swap it more quickly. What do you think?

I ended up being well talked out of this one but this YouTube video gives a pretty detailed explanation of the issues and tells why you need to watch the ERG.

I'm no expert, but these guys seem to know their stuff and based on this, if I had a 180bhp/cfca engine, I'd be getting the EGR replaced ASAP based on this?

 

[stevehicksracing@outlook.]

Tricky one.

The dpf light on will normally mean spending money. Either on EGR cooler or a replacement dpf.

It's it a pre adblue version eu5? If so no adblue.

What's the mileage?

Get proper diagnosis graphs etc this will analyse dpf differential pressure and identify if it needs cleaning

 

[DXX]

My DPF light came on today, cleared again after a 20 min drive, first time I have ever seen it.

I think I’ve got a dodgy EGR cooler as my van’s been losing a bit of coolant occasionally, I’m interested in why you think the DPF light might be connected to a bad EGR.

My garage haven’t so far diagnosed the EGR being at fault but if it is putting the DPF at risk then I would be minded to swap it more quickly. What do you think?

Don’t hang about, get a repair (replace EGR complete), if you search you’ll find a recent case of an engine with a bent connecting rod as a result.

 

[peteaufc]

I ended up being well talked out of this one but this YouTube video gives a pretty detailed explanation of the issues and tells why you need to watch the ERG.

I'm no expert, but these guys seem to know their stuff and based on this, if I had a 180bhp/cfca engine, I'd be getting the EGR replaced ASAP based on this?

Oops, here's the link

 

[Broadside]

Don’t hang about, get a repair (replace EGR complete), if you search you’ll find a recent case of an engine with a bent connecting rod as a result.

Thanks, I’ve had a read through those other threads. I’ve now decided not to drive the van until it goes in to the garage on Thu.

 

[DXX]

Thanks, I’ve had a read through those other threads. I’ve now decided not to drive the van until it goes in to the garage on Thu.

Good move but check how much the coolant has dropped between now and when you next start it (cold). It’s probably only leaking when hot but you wouldn’t want to do some damage starting it up for your garage appointment.

 

[Broadside]

It’s been investigated in the garage today, pressure tested but no drop in pressure found. I’ve pointed out the evidence of residue on the glands of the EGR return in to the air intake but they are dismissive of it. They say there isn’t a problem but from time to time the van loses all coolant in 100 miles but then might be fine for a couple of thousand miles.

Not sure what to do, whether to put it in to another garage or bite the bullet and get the EGR replaced.

 

[DXX]

It’s been investigated in the garage today, pressure tested but no drop in pressure found. I’ve pointed out the evidence of residue on the glands of the EGR return in to the air intake but they are dismissive of it. They say there isn’t a problem but from time to time the van loses all coolant in 100 miles but then might be fine for a couple of thousand miles.

Not sure what to do, whether to put it in to another garage or bite the bullet and get the EGR replaced.

Was the test carried out with both EGR gas pipes removed on a hot system over the full temperature gradient?
Many of these failed EGR coolers either seal or the leak is drastically reduced when at ambient temperature.
The test should also be over a long period, say overnight to spot a small leak.

The mechanic who made the statement ‘there isn’t a problem but from time to time the van loses coolant in 100 miles but then might be OK for a thousand miles’ is probably trying to describe an intermittent fault. Let’s face it they just want to replace it as buggering about with a pressure test is an unknown that’s sometimes difficult to explain to a paying customer.

If I were you I would evaluate the milage on the EGR against the new EGR replacement cost and further investigation costs.
If you have more than say 40K miles or more on the EGR it’s probably going to be half full of soot and not performing well anyway.

I acquired an EGR from @supernova with 101K miles on it with the intention to see how feasible they are to overhaul. At 101K miles the entire heat exchanger was 100% full of solid, hard carbon and the valve seized open to the point where it took 4x the standard force to even get it to move, no chance to close it at all.
I did manage to clean it after making a jig to use a long series drill to get a hole through the carbon on each tube so I could apply chemical cleaning - it isn’t work the mess and man hours!

 

[Broadside]

Was the test carried out with both EGR gas pipes removed on a hot system over the full temperature gradient?
Many of these failed EGR coolers either seal or the leak is drastically reduced when at ambient temperature.
The test should also be over a long period, say overnight to spot a small leak.

The mechanic who made the statement ‘there isn’t a problem but from time to time the van loses coolant in 100 miles but then might be OK for a thousand miles’ is probably trying to describe an intermittent fault. Let’s face it they just want to replace it as buggering about with a pressure test is an unknown that’s sometimes difficult to explain to a paying customer.

If I were you I would evaluate the milage on the EGR against the new EGR replacement cost and further investigation costs.
If you have more than say 40K miles or more on the EGR it’s probably going to be half full of soot and not performing well anyway.

I acquired an EGR from @supernova with 101K miles on it with the intention to see how feasible they are to overhaul. At 101K miles the entire heat exchanger was 100% full of solid, hard carbon and the valve seized open to the point where it took 4x the standard force to even get it to move, no chance to close it at all.
I did manage to clean it after making a jig to use a long series drill to get a hole through the carbon on each tube so I could apply chemical cleaning - it isn’t work the mess and man hours!

Thanks for the feedback. That statement that it looses all coolant in 100 miles but then may be fine for a couple of thousand is mine as that he’s it’s been behaving since about May this year.

The mechanics say there is nothing wrong that they can find so they are not touting for work. The van has got 110k miles on it so maybe it’s time to just get the EGR swapped out and keep fingers crossed that stops the coolant loss.

 

[DXX]

Thanks for the feedback. That statement that it looses all coolant in 100 miles but then may be fine for a couple of thousand is mine as that he’s it’s been behaving since about May this year.

The mechanics say there is nothing wrong that they can find so they are not touting for work. The van has got 110k miles on it so maybe it’s time to just get the EGR swapped out and keep fingers crossed that stops the coolant loss.

Definitely time at 110K miles, have you had the van from new?

 

[Broadside]

Definitely time at 110K miles, have you had the van from new?

I bought the van with 50k on it 3 years ago. The previous service history just had regular service items nothing ‘special’ like EGR flushes or replacement. The EGR has got a 2016 build date sticker on the side so I’m fairly certain it is the original item.

 

[Merryman]

See the log book and contact the previous owner as to it's history and why was he selling.