Dashcam hard wiring fuses to use

HewsonsT6

New Member
Hi,

I recently purchased the AutoVox V5 Pro dashcam and reverse camera. Having looked around on the forum (@Lox fuse diagram) and other places for which fuse I have come to the following conclusion:
  • SC17 for the permanent live
  • SC36 for the switched live
Both locations have been marked up in the attached image.

I have not installed anything like this before and it would be good to get some confirmation that these are the correct fuses to piggy back onto for the camera power. I am trying to avoid any fuses that power critical systems.

If anyone has either done this before or has knowledge of which ones to use that would be much appreciated for my piece of mind.

Thanks in advance.
Mark

Screenshot 2024-05-22 at 10.04.47.png
 
What generation is your van T6 or T6.1?

I would avoid the Onboard Supply Control Unit as that switches the power for a great many things.

For low risk if you look at the empty fuse ways you can see that generally the supply side terminal is in there (physically they are bus bars across several fuses) - use a bright torch.

So a low risk approach is simply to put the fuse tap in any empty position, no disruption risk. Works fine so long as you put the fuse in the right position and the tap in the right way around - so your fuse in the top slot on the tap and the front pin of the tap in the side of the socket with the contact:

2022033015373454-png.228870
 
Hi,

The van is a T6 late 2015.

As I said I was trying to avoid anything critical and thought that the onboard supply might have been ok but really dont want to disrupt anything if I can help it.

I will get the torch out and see if there are any terminals I can use.

Thanks
 
Hi @roadtripper , I have just been out to the van and I dont have any free switched fuse places as there is nothing in the slots but I do have a couple of slots for permanent power that are empty and do have the bus bar.

I guess I can tap from the 15amp fuse for the washers for the switched power and can use an empty slot for the permanent.

Mark
 
Hi @roadtripper , I have just been out to the van and I dont have any free switched fuse places as there is nothing in the slots but I do have a couple of slots for permanent power that are empty and do have the bus bar.

I guess I can tap from the 15amp fuse for the washers for the switched power and can use an empty slot for the permanent.

Mark
What did you do in the end? Do you have to use the permanent live cable for when just parked or can you only run the ignition one only? Going to fit mine today
 
Do you have to use the permanent live cable for when just parked or can you only run the ignition one only?
Depends on the camera/power supply. Some are simple and will just draw power from either - some are electronic and always draw power from the permanent live but shut down when the power is removed from the switched (this is often done so that the camera can finish saving the current file, though some cameras have small batteries or super capacitors instead)

If the instructions are not clear than connect the switches live first and see if it behaves - if it doesn't need the permanent live then no risk of it being a parasitic drain :thumbsup:
 
Depends on the camera/power supply. Some are simple and will just draw power from either - some are electronic and always draw power from the permanent live but shut down when the power is removed from the switched (this is often done so that the camera can finish saving the current file, though some cameras have small batteries or super capacitors instead)

If the instructions are not clear than connect the switches live first and see if it behaves - if it doesn't need the permanent live then no risk of it being a parasitic drain :thumbsup:
Does running it on a permanent live drain much on the battery? Only the Dashcam I have installed now is only on with ignition
 
Does running it on a permanent live drain much on the battery? Only the Dashcam I have installed now is only on with ignition
It totally depends on what it is using the perm live for - the instructions should tell you. As Roadtripper says it could be short term to aid shutdown or it may be for monitoring while parked. If it’s anything like the Garmin ones its parking mode can be adjusted from off to constant monitoring. Either way it will almost certainly have low voltage protection and shut down completely when the battery voltage drops to a certain point.
 
I wouldn't run parking mode off the normal starter battery in a start stop vehicle.

They tend to be 75Ah and will only be charged to around 80% due to smart alternator and start stop. They will be damaged below 50% charge. That means you only have about 23Ah of effective capacity.

As most dash cams seem to draw between 1A or 0.5A that gives about 24-48 hours of run time before you reach dangerous levels in terms of battery life or starting the van.
 
To be honest I’m not really interested in having that feature anyway just hope I can still run it just on the ignition live. Just checked the manual and even if connect to a permanent live in the settings you can turn parking mode off so I assume it wouldn’t be using any power when this is set to the off position?
 
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To be honest I’m not really interested in having that feature anyway just hope I can still run it just on the ignition live. Just checked the manual and even if connect to a permanent live in the settings you can turn parking mode off so I assume it wouldn’t be using any power when this is set to the off position?
No, it won’t use any power if parking mode turned off. Having the perm live connected does give you the option to use it if you want at a later date (dodgy car park??) and likely allows it to shut down gracefully. Mine (Garmin Mini) runs for 2 hours after switch off and will record only if there is an impact. It then turns off totally. Absolutely negligible battery usage, especially compared to what is used when the stop/start kicks in.
 
No, it won’t use any power if parking mode turned off. Having the perm live connected does give you the option to use it if you want at a later date (dodgy car park??) and likely allows it to shut down gracefully. Mine (Garmin Mini) runs for 2 hours after switch off and will record only if there is an impact. It then turns off totally. Absolutely negligible battery usage, especially compared to what is used when the stop/start kicks in.
What permanent live do you recommend me to piggyback off? Any off the left side?
 
What permanent live do you recommend me to piggyback off? Any off the left side?
I’d use the empty ones you identified (left or right hand rows, centre is switched) using Roadtripper’s instructions to ensure the fuse is correctly positioned.
 
I’d use the empty ones you identified (left or right hand rows, centre is switched) using Roadtripper’s instructions to ensure the fuse is correctly positioned.
So I would just plug the fuse tap cable into an empty slot with just that 1 fuse that came with it in or do I need to add another to the other slot as well?
Sorry for the simple questions I have no clue when it comes to this stuf!
 
So I would just plug the fuse tap cable into an empty slot with just that 1 fuse that came with it in or do I need to add another to the other slot as well?
Sorry for the simple questions I have no clue when it comes to this stuf!
Fuse for dashcam needs to go in the ‘new circuit fuse’ slot in the picture from Roadtripper above. The other slot can remain empty if it’s going into an empty location. The left hand pin on the pic needs to go into the live side of the fuse slot on the fuse box. My empty slots that had power only had a feed on the right hand side, the left was blank (see circle on pic below). So left pin into right side - this means power flows through the new circuit fuse.

IMG_0296.jpeg
 
Ah ok I’ve just been and checked mine so based on mine I could put the permanent live in any of the 3 marked?
IMG_5084.jpeg
 
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