BLUETTI EB3A initial review

roadtripper

2021 Caravelle Executive
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T6 Legend
So for non T6 reasons I ended up buying a Bluetti EB3A so I thought I'd let folks here know my initial review thoughts. There are lots of threads about the bigger systems but less about the more modest ones.

Basic impressions

So this is the Bluetti EB3A alongside my small Beaudens I use as a secondary 12v system in my van that I've discussed on my tinker thread.

20231018_100137.JPG

First things to note is though it is much bigger the capacity isn't hugely different (167Wh Vs 268Wh)

This is because the Bluetti has it's mains charger built in and has a 600w inverter (that needs cooling) Vs a 150w inverter (that doesn't). Essentially the bottom half is battery, the upper half electronics.

Another major difference, that I missed on initial delivery, is that the Bluetti does not come with a 12v charge cable. It does have a standard IEC kettle type lead for 240v and an MC4 solar cable. That was a surprise and a problem as I really wanted to use it as a 12v inverter with benefits. The lead is a £20 ish extra, but to be fair it seems heavily built to suit the sustained 8.5 amp charge current and fits in a 12v socket very solidly, no wiggling around.

My biggest annoyance is this:

20231018_100401.JPG

You'll note the Beaudens has the 240v socket sideways so it can stand up with a "normal" plug and strain relief in. The Bluetti has the socket in the "normal" orientation which means in the vast majority of cases it will rest all its weight on the cable strain relief, which is daft.

Even after is the obvious solution is to rest the unit on its back so the sockets are all on top - but the back is the only curved surface. I fixed this by putting 4 furniture felt stick on feet on the back but it's still a silly design error.

I have found a strip down video that shows all the internal connections use the XT60 connectors (even the 240 which is... something to be careful of) and I think there is enough cable to flip the socket upside down. I may consider this in the future.

In operation

First confusion is there is no dedicated on/off button. Each "area" (DC/AC/Light) has it's own button but, crucially, the first press just wakes up the unit, you have to press it again to turn that area actually on.

One thing to be aware of is that the unit relies on a fan to keep cool, and it's pretty keen to use this all the time. This means you have to ensure both sides are in free air as one is intake and one is exhaust.

Charging from the mains there are 3 profiles. However 2 of them are only accessible via the Bluetooth App, which tries very hard to sign you up for an account. Something as fundamental as charging profile really should be accessible without the app.

As standard the unit charges reasonably fast and the display shows the incoming wattage. You can optionally use a much faster charge from 240v but it does warn about using this regularly will shorten cell life and when I tried it the fan is working hard. With a modest capacity the standard charging is not bad anyway.

The silent charging profile you'd think would be one that charges as fast as it can without needing to run the fan. It's not. It's just a slower charge so the fan runs a bit less, so it's not silent.

In fact the disappointing thing is that in any charge profile if you leave the unit plugged in as soon as it drops to 99% charge it cuts the charger in and the fan whirls into life. It would be quite difficult to sleep in the same room if you left it to charge overnight while stopping at a motel for instance.

A good side of the app is that it does allow remote operation. On the trip that it was bought for I needed it to run our Coolbox on 12v, a heated blanket on 240v (the car heating isn't working) and keep itself topped up from the boot 12v socket. In the app you can see the state of charge and the flow of power in for charging and out to 12v and 240v and also turn those outputs on and off. It was very handy to be able to do this from the front of the car and turn the coolbox off for a bit when the charge dropped a bit low.

Something to be aware of is that the self consumption of the unit feels high. While the display does show a useful and so far accurate estimate of run time, this drops with outputs enabled more than I would expect. I did expect it with the 240v on, but it also seemed to drop quite a bit with just the 12v on. Possibly this is because it has a wireless charger on the top that I'll never use (I don't have anything that will and, with the 240v socket, the unit is on its back anyway)

I also found the wattage ratings displayed on the unit or in the app didn't tally well with external measurements that I usually trust. They've indicative rather than accurate

Quirks

It's easy to misread one feature. At a glance you might assume the unit is rated as 600w on 240v with a surge capacity of 1200w. That's not quite true, it has a mode you can enable in the app where for purely resistive loads (think electric radiator) it can throttle the output such that a 1200w heater is only supplied with 600w but doesn't trip the unit out.

If you turn the 240v output on and then charge from 240v the unit will act as a basic UPS. I wouldn't use it like that all the time but in times when you're at home with iffy power in a storm that could be quite useful.

Alternatively if you start charging from 240v and then turn the 240v output on it will bypass the UPS function. This means any 240v load (up to 600w) will be directly supported by the 240v input allowing the battery to be charged faster, the unit will also run cooler as the inverter will be off.

Conclusions

Things I like:

  • LiFePo cells
  • Seems a competent little unit for reasonable cost
  • Remote operation through the app
  • Useful UPS capability
  • All sockets on one side not all around


Things I don't like:

  • Charge profiles only through app - you can alter the timeout mode on the unit why not charge rate?
  • Damn stupid 240v socket orientation
  • Silent mode isn't, the fan still runs
  • Aggressive 100% charging - bursting into life with full charge every 15 minutes is annoying, either trickle charge or let the charge fall back a bit more.
  • App tries to get you to create an account - but you can at least use the app without one if you use the oddly name "Offline Mode"


Overall I like it, it's a useful unit to have around like a pocket knife as it can be used as a big USB bank, a decent sized inverter and a handy UPS in a storm. I can see me slinging it in the van for a day I want to "work from van" and want something to support the laptop etc without having to run the engine.
 
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Nice.

What's the self discharge rate in %/per hour?

With everything off?

My bigger Bluetti was 1%/hr with 240/12/USB all set to off (but unit switched on).

So it was flat after 4days of doing nothing........
 
Not really measured yet - but now you've given me the nudge will see what I can find.

I'm also curious about the big on/off option in the app as this smaller unit has no physical system on/off button. I think the smaller ones just go into some form of sleep state - but it's been dormant for a couple of weeks now so will see how far below 100% it is.

My Beaudens is all soft buttons but I've never noticed any significant self discharge when dormant - thankfully as it's semi installed. I should probably do a review on that...
 
So since I got a set of bargain 100w Renogy folding solar panels I've been doing some more experiments.

Self Discharge

The self discharge of the pack is a little disappointing, if it's "awake" with just the DC side on it's losing about 1% an hour similar to the findings above. And that's even if the backlight goes out (which it does) possibly it's because it has a (useless to me) wireless charger coupled to the DC switch, I may try and see if I can just disconnect that internally.

However at least when all the outputs are off it goes into some deep sleep state and I've not noticed it dropping more than 1-2% when it's been put away for a couple of months.

I've never measured it but my smaller Beaudens doesn't seem to do this, it lives for ages in the kitchen pod powering some simple lighting and I've left the DC enabled for 4 days with the lights running and it's barely used 10%

Solar Discharge

Of more concern though is it's behaviour with the solar panel. It charges quite healthily but I noticed that if you leave the panel connected the charge level drops back.

I don't think this is due to leakage into the panel, it seems more like the panel in low light has just enough generation to keep the control awake and then you get the same self discharge.
 
There was a conversation recently about shading on solar panels and how it can be much more of an impact than you might think.

Now I have a decent panel, a power back to charge and strong clear sunshine let's have an experiment.

First off with the panel well aligned to the sun it's putting just under the full 100w into the pack - nice!

Screenshot_20240617-101746.jpg

As an aside before I aligned the panels it was around 65w - it's always worth moving the panels around every couple of hours if you can :thumbsup:

So next I grabbed a batten of wood to simulate shade from a roof bar or similar

20240617_101901.JPG


Does not look like much does it, you might guess 5-10% loss?

But look what happens in reality - it's right down to 21w so the panel is at 1/5th of its power!

Screenshot_20240617-101847.jpg

How bad it is depends on the orientation of the cells and the shading, in this case the impact was high as the shade was across all the strings of cells.

So if the shading was the other way the impact is still there but more what you expect as it was shading one complete string on one panel but the others were fine, as was the whole second panel.

20240617_101918.JPG
Screenshot_20240617-101941.jpg
 
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There was a conversation recently about shading on solar panels and how it can be much more of an impact than you might think.

Now I have a decent panel, a power back to charge and strong clear sunshine let's have an experiment.

First off with the panel well aligned to the sun it's putting just under the full 100w into the pack - nice!

View attachment 247072

As an aside before I aligned the panels it was around 65w - it's always worth moving the panels around every couple of hours if you can :thumbsup:

So next I grabbed a batten of wood to simulate shade from a roof bar or similar

View attachment 247073


Does not look like much does it, you might guess 5-10%?

But look what happens in reality - bang right down to 21w so the panel is at 1/5th of its power!

View attachment 247074

How bad it is depends on the orientation of the cells and the shading, in this case the impact was high as the shade was across all the strings of cells.

So if the shading was the other way the impact is still there but more what you expect as it was shading one complete string on one panel but the others were fine, as was the whole second panel.

View attachment 247075
View attachment 247076
I can see you having a panel on your Caravelle roof before too long, it's wonderful stuff this 'free' power!
 
I can see you having a panel on your Caravelle roof before too long, it's wonderful stuff this 'free' power!
It's been considered but I don't use that much power in the van currently hence why, ironically given some of my posts, I have no fixed leisure system.

For now I like the van to look a bit Executive Taxi as that's boring and unremarkable when parked up, and roof rails and a solid panel is a bit of a give away.

Plus I'd probably smack it in to a car park.
 
So what do I mean by "cells"?

Well a solar panel is essentially a semiconductor junction (like a transistor or diode) but one designed so that when light falls on to it that energy is partly converted to electric charge. Each junction gets about 0.5v potential difference across it.

To make this useful you want to collect as much energy as possible. There is a limit to how big the junction can be and still work and you really need more voltage than 0.5v otherwise all the energy will be transferred mostly as current and the loses due to resistive heating in the wires huge.

So a panel is made up of lots of small junctions arranged into cells with metallic bus bars either side of the junction to collect the charge. Then the cells are joined; to increase the voltage.

Fun fact is that, for low voltage panels at least, if you count the number of cells and divide by 2 you get the rough working voltage of the panel.

So if you look at one side of my panel you can see there are 3 columns of cells arranged in a zig zag fashion up and down, with the fine bus bars in parallel to pick up the charge well across the cell.

20240617_102009.JPG

If you count there are 36 in series so rule of thumb this is an 18v panel, that ties in pretty well with the document optimal working voltage of around 20.

Knowing the layout of your cells is not just a nerdy thing, it can help you understand the best way to place your panels to minimise shading.

As demonstrated above if the shading is across complete cells then those cells not only stop generating but also become a high resistance, stopping the other cells in the same series chain. This is why there is such a dramatic drop with the bar across.

However the bar up and down only partially shades the cells in one area meaning the current from those drops but they don't become high resistance so the impact is just the current drops to that of the shaded cells.

This is why shading has serious impact, it turns shaded cells into resistors that actively stops the unshaded cells from generating.
 
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