Adjusting B14 for towing

[Dave F]

I need to lift the back as I’m towing so just won’t about a 30mm lift on the back as you can see in the picture it sits a bit lo on the back.
Do I turn the nut so it’s 30mm up from where it currently is?.
Also I have miss placed the adjusting spanner’s so can I do it without them?.
Last of all will I need to get
The 4 wheel alignment re done?.
Thanks David

 

[Grim Reaper]

The rear suspension is mounted in the middle of the lever length unlike the front where it is in line with it so it actually needs less adjustment at the spring collar to get the raise you require.
i.e. If you raise the shock collar (the adjuster is below the spring) at the front 30mm the front end bodywork goes up 30mm, if you lower the rear shock collar 30mm (because the adjuster is above the spring) you will get more than 30mm increase in bodywork height.
I’m afraid I can’t tell you the ratio of the rear vs the front but since it is a pain in the butt to adjust the rear collars I would just go 30mm and accept that it’s going to be higher (and when your caravan is bouncing around on the towbar a little extra won’t hurt)

 

[RedUn]

I'd work on 10mm on the collar gives 20mm at the hub. It can't be too far from that as the spring looks about halfway on the rear arm

 

[Dave F]

The rear suspension is mounted in the middle of the lever length unlike the front where it is in line with it so it actually needs less adjustment at the spring collar to get the raise you require.
i.e. If you raise the shock collar (the adjuster is below the spring) at the front 30mm the front end bodywork goes up 30mm, if you lower the rear shock collar 30mm (because the adjuster is above the spring) you will get more than 30mm increase in bodywork height.
I’m afraid I can’t tell you the ratio of the rear vs the front but since it is a pain in the butt to adjust the rear collars I would just go 30mm and accept that it’s going to be higher (and when your caravan is bouncing around on the towbar a little extra won’t hurt)

Thanks for that. I have decided that even if it is a little higher at the back that will be ok as you say it’s probably better higher than lower .
I think at the minute it always looks a little lower at the back anyway.
So is it a hard job to do or just remove the wheel and alter the rings?. Will I have to get it realised?. Cheers

 

[Grim Reaper]

You really need to release the spring from compression to adjust the spring collars, this means unbolting the bottom damper bolts on both sides (easier to do with both wheels in the air so the Anti Roll Bar is not under tension) so you can pull the trailing arms down far enough to release the springs from the bottom mount so the collars (on the part mounted to the body above the spring) are released from any preload and can be easily turned.
I wouldn't see a need to get it realigned since the rear wheels move in a pretty much up and down motion, no pulling in (increasing negative camber) as the wheels go up or vice versa.

 

[Dave F]

You really need to release the spring from compression to adjust the spring collars, this means unbolting the bottom damper bolts on both sides (easier to do with both wheels in the air so the Anti Roll Bar is not under tension) so you can pull the trailing arms down far enough to release the springs from the bottom mount so the collars (on the part mounted to the body above the spring) are released from any preload and can be easily turned.
I wouldn't see a need to get it realigned since the rear wheels move in a pretty much up and down motion, no pulling in (increasing negative camber) as the wheels go up or vice versa.

I took a wheel off to have a look and it’s probably out of my comfort zone as I only have limited tools and knowledge in this area . I think it’s probably best I go back to the garage that fitted them for me and let them sort it out for me.
Thanks for the advice I’m glad I asked instead of just ploughing in and making a mess of it all.

 

[Mooncat]

Can you not do something with the tow-ball height? It seems a shame to spend all that money on coil-overs and then running standard height to drag your tin tent.

If you're on a removable swan neck type, I've seen extended versions on a lowered T5.

 

[Dave F]

Can you not do something with the tow-ball height? It seems a shame to spend all that money on coil-overs and then running standard height to drag your tin tent.

If you're on a removable swan neck type, I've seen extended versions on a lowered T5.

I have the westfalia detachable.
I was going to lift it a little anyway as it just looks lower at the back there is always going to be a trade off I think between looks unloaded and loaded.
We use both for camping the van and the tin tent!! . When we meet my daughter and husband also friends from the south they stay in the van and we are in the caravan so it works out quite good. I prefer the camper but the wife prefers the caravan with a fixed double bed .

 

[Jollyvan]

I need to lift the back as I’m towing so just won’t about a 30mm lift on the back as you can see in the picture it sits a bit lo on the back.
Do I turn the nut so it’s 30mm up from where it currently is?.
Also I have miss placed the adjusting spanner’s so can I do it without them?.
Last of all will I need to get
The 4 wheel alignment re done?.
Thanks David

View attachment 47356

If you search for Adjusting B14 Rear. I started a thread on this. Plus I think that the tow ball should be 450mm above ground. If you find a solution let me know as I have the same towbar and would like an extended swan neck ( but would this interfere with the rear door opening?)

 

[Dave F]

If you search for Adjusting B14 Rear. I started a thread on this. Plus I think that the tow ball should be 450mm above ground. If you find a solution let me know as I have the same towbar and would like an extended swan neck ( but would this interfere with the rear door opening?)

I will have s look at that cheers.
Even with a bigger swan neck it will still push the van down the same so I think I’m just going to lift it 20mm and if I need to adjust the front to the same. I don’t mind if it’s a little higher on the back as long as it doesn’t look refocus.
Cheers

 

[Dave F]

ASAP Help required .
So I gad my B14s fitted and set up perfect pre caravan.
The back end was sagging low with the caravan on so put it in to get them lifted to max so we stoped the front end so it looked level ish.
yesterday I event over a raised zebra crossing and herd a bang and one of the springs has snapped and the other one looks like it’s starting to go.
They are T30 and according to Bilstein the t32 spring is the same as the 28 and 30?.
im assuming it’s the bigger caravan and bikes On that have caused this problem caused this to happen.
Q. I would like the van to sit about 40 mm higher do that when I put the caravan on and load bikes in it sits better and I can lift the front up as that is set at minimum as well.
i also think I need a heavier spring so that it can take more load.
If I fit a heavier spring will that make it sit higher as it will have less sag or will I need a a bigger spring in size as well.
Can this be done? Is the load the problem?
Do I have to bin the B14 in the back and go for something else.
I have hit a brick wall with this one so any advice would be brilliant.
And before anybody says get rid of the caravan the wife won’t have that .

 

[rover220]

Not unknown for the bilstein springs to snap the bottom coil. Unlikely your caravan has caused it.

 

[Dave F]

They are only just over 2 years old so haven’t lasted that’s why I route there must be another problem hence the load.
i would still like to get rid of the sag so it sits a bit higher Unload. Can I fit any spring or does it have to be the same one .
Cheers

 

[Grim Reaper]

Rear springs are independant of the dampers so there shouldn't be any issue with them not fitting (as you may have with the fronts) but an uprated spring will/may fight against/overpower the damper if it's much overrated with respect to the original.
KYB springs get a good reputation, as do Eibach, you may have to do some digging to find out ratings of them though, are there any markings on your existing ones to give a baseline to work with?

 

[Dave F]

Rear springs are independant of the dampers so there shouldn't be any issue with them not fitting (as you may have with the fronts) but an uprated spring will/may fight against/overpower the damper if it's much overrated with respect to the original.
KYB springs get a good reputation, as do Eibach, you may have to do some digging to find out ratings of them though, are there any markings on your existing ones to give a baseline to work with?

I called the Bilstein and they told me all the spsings are the same on the 28,30,32. If it isn’t the weight that has caused the problem what else could it be? Like I say they aren’t old but are out of warranty.

 

[rover220]

the bottom coil tends to break as the plastic sleeve holds water apparently. heard it a few times with b14 springs.

 

[Insert Coin]

I tow a heavy caravan with my T32, which is 1900kg on a Westfalia removable hitch, no issues so far in 5 or 6 longish trips.

My B14’s are at max height, I’ve never heard any unwanted noises.

Perhaps just replace the springs, like for like, they aren’t that expensive and maybe you just got a bad spring.

What’s your nose weight btw?

 

[Dave F]

I tow a heavy caravan with my T32, which is 1900kg on a Westfalia removable hitch, no issues so far in 5 or 6 longish trips.

My B14’s are at max height, I’ve never heard any unwanted noises.

Perhaps just replace the springs, like for like, they aren’t that expensive and maybe you just got a bad spring.

What’s your nose weight btw?

I need to check my nose weight and see if I’m to heavy we also have e bike on whichatnt light.

 

[RedUn]

I've never had a set of B14s in my hand but I'd put it down to fatigue cracking due to the spring + platform design.

 

[Dave F]

I've never had a set of B14s in my hand but I'd put it down to fatigue cracking due to the spring + platform design.