Your imagination required…

frizzuti

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I’m looking for a neat solution to box in my inverter/charger. It needs a openable lid so I can get to the switch and connections. I also need a way of fixing via the 4 corner lug holes.

Happy to answer any questions. Photos show the small space I have above which needs to fit under the seat/bed when in bed mode.

I also need to make a hinged access door into the side ply lining panel so I can get to the RCBOs.

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Those plastic lugs are designed to secure a static unit to a wall etc.
They will not be strong enough to secure it is a significant collision. I’d suggest strapping around the whole body a few times.
 
Those plastic lugs are designed to secure a static unit to a wall etc.
They will not be strong enough to secure it is a significant collision. I’d suggest strapping around the whole body a few times.
There’s actually a metal back plate and the plastic lugs sit over the metal lugs, so should be a strong securing point. However, I do like the added security of a strap around the middle.
 
If you want to locate it in that area I think I’d make an ‘L’ shaped stainless steel bracket and securely fix to the floor.
4x studs protruding up from the floor should be adequate and the floor area of the bracket should take up not more space that the end profile.
I would take the studs through the floor pan for maximum strength.
Mount the unit say 30mm off the floor level.
 
If you want to locate it in that area I think I’d make an ‘L’ shaped stainless steel bracket and securely fix to the floor.
4x studs protruding up from the floor should be adequate and the floor area of the bracket should take up not more space that the end profile.
I would take the studs through the floor pan for maximum strength.
Mount the unit say 30mm off the floor level.
Do you mean something like this?
Red is the L shaped bracket and blue the bolts through.

IMG_3909.webp
 
Yes, but with the bottom of the bracket totally under the unit, not protruding. Say 4mm stainless steel plate.
You could incorporate some anti-vibration mounts, proper isolating mounts not a sheet of rubber. Probably better for the electronics.
 
Yes, but with the bottom of the bracket totally under the unit, not protruding. Say 4mm stainless steel plate.
Yeah it would be so the unit sits on the bracket and the bracket sits on the floor. The only issue is I think I want it fully enclosed. I’d then carpet the outside so it would blend in with the surrounding. Then make a little hinged lid.
 
Not sure you could have it fully enclosed, that’s a big inverter it will need to dissipate heat.
The manual will state the required air flow and physical clearances required.
 
Yeah I was trying to think of a way to keep good airflow around it. I could mount to the L shape bracket but then turn it 180 degrees so you’d just see the back of the bracket, which I could carpet?
 
If it were mine there would be nothing flammable around it. You could paint the bracket the same colour
 
I’m looking for a neat solution to box in my inverter/charger. It needs a openable lid so I can get to the switch and connections. I also need a way of fixing via the 4 corner lug holes.

Happy to answer any questions. Photos show the small space I have above which needs to fit under the seat/bed when in bed mode.

I also need to make a hinged access door into the side ply lining panel so I can get to the RCBOs.

View attachment 296159

View attachment 296160

View attachment 296161
Have a look over here....







.
 
Have a look over here....







.
Thanks @Dellmassive really useful.

I have a couple of questions relating to the overall set-up which I’m struggling with finding the answers to…

1. My multiplus 12 / 800VA / 35A inverter/charger is about 4.5m away from the leisure battery. According to the spec sheets that requires a cable of 25mm2 (+ve cable) so all good. I plan on connecting the negative cable to the chassis ground point at the D Pillar. Is that ok / safe, or do I need to connect it back to the battery -ve terminal or -ve bus bar? Which ever, should this be the same size as the +ve cable (25mm2)?

2. I have an isolator switch straight after the fuse from +ve terminal of leisure battery and before the +ve bus bar feeding all +ve 12v circuits, B2B and inverter. Do I need another separate isolator switch just for the inverter?

3. I’m fitting a Victron smart shunt (under seat base) to measure leisure battery. I also want to measure the van/starter battery, as it can measure a secondary. Happy I need to run a +ve cable to the van/starter battery - to measure it, which I’ll run alongside the main +ve cable between starter battery and B2B charger (Orion XS 50A), but the tech spec says I also need to connect a -ve cable from van/starter battery to the -ve bus bar / smart shunt. Therefore, negating my original plan of connecting the -ve bus bar direct to chassis ground point (the one in the centre of the cab floor, below the gear stick). Is this the correct way of doing this and I’m assuming that -ve cable is to be the same size as the +ve cable (in my case 16mm2)?

4. Finally, and I can’t remember if I’ve already asked, but is there any interference issue with running DC 12V circuit cables next to and possibly touching 3-core 240V AC cables for about a 4m run?

Again, your knowledge is very much appreciated - my countdown to Europe adventure in two wks is resting on me installing the electrical system! 😬
 
1.. install guide. Calls for 25mm2. (Upto 5m). So use 25mm2 or upgrade to 35mm2 if you're can... From the leisure battery.

The NEG needs to be same gauge cable, and yes go direct to chassis... As short as possible. D pillar stud is ok, or just drill,nut, bolt a new metal-metal conection.

.

Screenshot_20250719_082102_Chrome.webp
 
2. No

You can switch it on/off via the....

Remote switch.
Cerbo screen.
Bluetooth app.
 
3.. the LB shunt needs to use the same size cable as the multiplus, so 25mm2. For the main NEG cable.

It needs to be inline with the battery NEG post and the van chassis. So a very short cable link to ground.

The POS for the shunt is a small gauge fused cable that goes to the LB,... To monitor the SB you just connect the second small red fused cable to the SB, to be fair you could take a tap off the Orion xs SB side

You don't do anything with the SB neg and the shunt... The SB stays as it is.
 
4. Not for 12v power, but the audio guys would run there signal cable separate.

The mains stuff should be 2.5mm 3core artic cable and should be double protected, ie in conduit.

See the Rainautomotive for loads of great install guides on cable guides
 
3.. the LB shunt needs to use the same size cable as the multiplus, so 25mm2. For the main NEG cable.

It needs to be inline with the battery NEG post and the van chassis. So a very short cable link to ground.

The POS for the shunt is a small gauge fused cable that goes to the LB,... To monitor the SB you just connect the second small red fused cable to the SB, to be fair you could take a tap off the Orion xs SB side

You don't do anything with the SB neg and the shunt... The SB stays as it is.
So with LB NEG 25mm2 is ok, I don’t need to go up to 35mm2 to take account of load draw from 12V circuit and B2B converter? I think the total load draw is just below 150A so a 25mm2 cable with current carrying capacity of 170A should suffice?

Clearly if I did up the NEG to 35mm2 I’d need to do the same for the POS cable from LB to +ve bus bar.

The reason I questioned a NEG cable connection between SB and Shunt NEG is because of the attached diagram from Victron. I’ve circled with blue line…

IMG_3915.webp
 
Bigger cable is always better.

So go 35mm2 for the main powers if you can.... You will get less volt drop and have a happier 12v system.

The blue bit you show above is already in place from the SB to chassis, then chassis to the shunt chassis side..... A seperate cable is not needed. (,the van bodywork is that link)


You will get a high volt drop pulling 170A over 4.5m of 25mm2 cable
 
170A over 25mm2 and 30mm2 on a 4.5m run still shows a volt drop.


Using this calculator, it shows using a 70mm2 is recommended for that run. (12.2v 170A 4.5m)






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