Wolfbox G900 hardwire no 15A fuse available

[Tinks404]

Hi all, I picked up my van on Thursday and had already bought the Wolfbox G900 no forseeing this problem. Firstly, this is my foray into doing anything myself with a vehicle so I have been watching YouTube videos to see how it’s done. I had a fuse issue on Friday (now fixed) which caused me to look at my fuse box before I built the nerve to hardwire my dash cam. I noticed the 15A fuse that everyone uses is already being piggybacked by something. Does this mean I can’t hardwire my camera?

My husband mentioned something about the the cigarette lighter and getting a socket to plug in behind it, would that be a good work around?

Thanks for any advice. I’ve attached my fuse box so you can see what I mean with my uneducated description!

 

[roadtripper]

You should be able to use any "empty" slot in that column too - if you shine a torch in you'll see the positive bus bar is there just make sure you get the tap and fuse the right way around.

T6.1 reversing cam - red wire to which fuse?

Hi I’m new on here just wondering if someone could shed some light on where the red wire for fuse box goes for oem reverse camera for t6 it said middle row sc-18 but the fuse box is different on t6.1 everything else is done apart from red wire to fuse box

www.t6forum.com

 

[oldiebut goodie]

I may be wrong but I always thought that the power side of the fuses are all rated at 30A+ being powered by a busbar the fuse then protecting the wiring emanating from the downstream side of the fuse. As such it does not matter what amperage fuse is in which slot as the piggyback keeps the correct fuse inline.
Of course VW may have built fuse boxes differently nowadays but doubtlessly some one knows the construction of these.

 

[roadtripper]

I may be wrong but I always thought that the power side of the fuses are all rated at 30A+ being powered by a busbar the fuse then protecting the wiring emanating from the downstream side of the fuse. As such it does not matter what amperage fuse is in which slot as the piggyback keeps the correct fuse inline.
Of course VW may have built fuse boxes differently nowadays but doubtlessly some one knows the construction of these.

Not sure I get your point here - yes most of the bus bars have larger upstream fuses.

The piggy back will only work correctly if the fuses are in the right slots on the piggy back (lower original circuit, upper tap circuit) - if they are left out that circuit will not work.

Also they only work the right way around - with the common side between the two tap fuses (opposite the tap wire) being on the bus bar side of the fuse box. If not everything is safe and the original fuse in the lower slot is fine but your tap circuit now flows through both fuses in the tap.

The issue is if you use the tap to pick up from an empty slot and if you only put in the top one as there wasn't an original fuse that won't work if it's back to front.

Personally I'd prefer to pick up from an empty slot and leave the original circuit alone if practical.

@Tinks404 is the dangling fuse tap on the blue wire the one you want to connect?

 

[oldiebut goodie]

The busbar is what supplies the fuses. There is a network behind the fuse slots. Well, there always was on fuse boxes - maybe VW have changed that, but then I don't know what they would use now to supply the fuses having not seen the rear of them. I cannot see them running individual cables to each fuse from the power source. Maybe they are using induction.

 

[roadtripper]

Yes, that's the bus bar I recommend the OP to look for in post 2 and why you can put a fuse tap in an otherwise unused slot and have it work (so long as you get it right way around and the fuse in the right socket on the tap)?

Or if you dont want to use a tap you can get a connector to actually populate the empty fuse position "properly" and then use it, but that's a lot more messing around with the fuse box.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

You are missing the point of my post - the op was looking for a 15A fuse present to use, I was pointing out that it doesn't matter what rating fuse slot is used as the busbar will supply sufficient at any fuse.

 

[roadtripper]

Agreed, but they were looking for a specific 15A fuse i.e. a specific fuse number not a rating.

I think we are making the some point in the end - your point is you can use any other populated fuse on the same ignition switched bus bar, my point was you can use the unpopulated ones on that bus bar as well.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

The only problem with using an unpopulated slot is that the corresponding out terminal is missing - well they are on mine - so anything that utilizes it is only held in on one side, just not as secure as one with the terminal both sides.

 

[roadtripper]

It's a fair point, but has the upside of not disturbing existing circuits, especially if they do come adrift.

I'd always recommend supporting the tails of a tap however used, fuse sockets are not expected to take mechanical loads.

 

[Tinks404]

Not sure I get your point here - yes most of the bus bars have larger upstream fuses.

The piggy back will only work correctly if the fuses are in the right slots on the piggy back (lower original circuit, upper tap circuit) - if they are left out that circuit will not work.

Also they only work the right way around - with the common side between the two tap fuses (opposite the tap wire) being on the bus bar side of the fuse box. If not everything is safe and the original fuse in the lower slot is fine but your tap circuit now flows through both fuses in the tap.

The issue is if you use the tap to pick up from an empty slot and if you only put in the top one as there wasn't an original fuse that won't work if it's back to front.

Personally I'd prefer to pick up from an empty slot and leave the original circuit alone if practical.

@Tinks404 is the dangling fuse tap on the blue wire the one you want to connect?

No, I have no idea what that is, it’s how my van came from the conversion company. I haven’t started to hardwire the camera yet. My husband has said he will splice it so it goes into the head unit rather than the fuse box

 

[roadtripper]

First I'd suggest making sure you know where those existing ones go, especially the loose one as if there is voltage on it for any reason that's not very safe. Do you perhaps have some sort of Sargent all in one system as they often take an ignition sense feed, though I'd hope a conversion company would be tidier than that with the wiring...

I'd advise against disturbing the head unit wiring, they're fairly central to the vehicle electronics these days and not just a music player, especially if the vehicle is still in warranty.

I'd either use on of the other slots on the same ignition switched row or breakout one of the existing feeds. The Wago type piano lever connection blocks are easy to use and quite compact, it would be a good idea to add appropriate inline fuses to protect each cable.

Amazon links for illustration not recommendation

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKSHVF6/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Line-Blade-Holder-Fuses-Automotive/dp/B07QJBDKXG/

 

[Tinks404]

First I'd suggest making sure you know where those existing ones go, especially the loose one as if there is voltage on it for any reason that's not very safe. Do you perhaps have some sort of Sargent all in one system as they often take an ignition sense feed, though I'd hope a conversion company would be tidier than that with the wiring...

I'd advise against disturbing the head unit wiring, they're fairly central to the vehicle electronics these days and not just a music player, especially if the vehicle is still in warranty.

I'd either use on of the other slots on the same ignition switched row or breakout one of the existing feeds. The Wago type piano lever connection blocks are easy to use and quite compact, it would be a good idea to add appropriate inline fuses to protect each cable.

Amazon links for illustration not recommendation

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splicing-Connector-Lever-Nut-Assortment-Pocket/dp/B07NKSHVF6/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Line-Blade-Holder-Fuses-Automotive/dp/B07QJBDKXG/

Thank you, yes there is a Sargent system fitted. Maybe I should ask the conversion company what the loose cable is for.

 

[roadtripper]

You should have a wiring diagram of some sorts for future maintenance or additions (such as you are doing) so if they've not given you one I'd try and chase that up.

Many of the Sargent type all in one units cut power to some circuits on ignition sensing, this is needed for EMC regulations when used in a commercially built motorhome, so it maybe that has been fitted but not connected as many people find that behaviour annoying. If that is the case though you'd want to check that the leisure battery is still charging.

Figuring out Sargent based installs is a fairly common thread subject on the forum though so if you get stuck grab as many pictures as you can and folks will try to help