Wiring up an amplifier confusion/ problem.

Skyliner33

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What I am trying to achieve.

I have got a Discover Media head unit and Eton pnp speakers.

I want to add an Audison AP5.9 Bit amplifier.

I have also got an Audison Harness:

Screenshot 2020-05-28 at 17.38.02.png
and ani ISO EXTENTION INPUT 260 CM/102"
Screenshot 2020-05-28 at 17.39.17.png

I have fitted the harness to the back of my head unit. and If I plug the 2 brown connectors together my speakers work (as the amp isnt connected at all.)

Connected the Audison speaker out connector ie:
Screenshot 2020-05-28 at 17.43.49.png

and extended the wires to reach the 4 speakers in the van.

I have unplugged the OEM loom from the drivers door speaker, obviously no sound from there but still from the other 3 speakers.

Now when I disconnect the 2 brown connectors on the Audison harness all speakers go off (as expected). Then when I connect the ISO EXTENSION INPUT lead nothing happens, not sound from the drivers door speaker which is connected to this loom now.

Should this give some sound out from 1 speaker or do I need to connect all 4 speakers before anything will happen?

I hope that makes sense and thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
 
Have you connected the remote wire to turn the amp on?

If not then you need to hook the amp up to a pc and change the remote on settings. Section 7.3.4 Settings, paragraph 7
 
Have you connected the remote wire to turn the amp on?

If not then you need to hook the amp up to a pc and change the remote on settings. Section 7.3.4 Settings, paragraph 7
Thanks very much Deaky. It's that long since I put the wires in I cant remember. Will check that, but let's assume I forgot.
Would it be best to pull the van apart again to connect it up, or use the laptop to change the way the amp is turned on.
If so I am thinking one of these 2 options would be the best, but dont know which one to select.



Signals: Lets you set how AP5.9 bit is turned on through:

• Turn ON by SPEAKER DC (ART): When Enabled is selected, AP5.9 bit can be turned on through the amplified output (BTL) of a source connected to the inputs FL-FR-RL-RR.
This function can be disabled by selecting Disabled.

• Turning ON by SIGNAL PRESENCE (AST): When Enabled is selected, AP5.9 bit can be turned on through the presence of a signal from a source connected to the inputs FL-FR-RL-RR, IN1-IN2 (AUX). The stand-by time (energy saver) for the device when there is no signal can be set through the function TIMES -> SLEEP time out for analog input (see next point). The shut down time for the device when there is no signal is set to 30 mins. This function can be disabled by selecting Disabled.


Sorry to be a pain, I am now wishing car ICE was the same as years afo when it was a case of connecting up a few wires and it all worked :/
 
Thanks very much Deaky. It's that long since I put the wires in I cant remember. Will check that, but let's assume I forgot.
Would it be best to pull the van apart again to connect it up, or use the laptop to change the way the amp is turned on.
If so I am thinking one of these 2 options would be the best, but dont know which one to select.



Signals: Lets you set how AP5.9 bit is turned on through:

• Turn ON by SPEAKER DC (ART): When Enabled is selected, AP5.9 bit can be turned on through the amplified output (BTL) of a source connected to the inputs FL-FR-RL-RR.
This function can be disabled by selecting Disabled.

• Turning ON by SIGNAL PRESENCE (AST): When Enabled is selected, AP5.9 bit can be turned on through the presence of a signal from a source connected to the inputs FL-FR-RL-RR, IN1-IN2 (AUX). The stand-by time (energy saver) for the device when there is no signal can be set through the function TIMES -> SLEEP time out for analog input (see next point). The shut down time for the device when there is no signal is set to 30 mins. This function can be disabled by selecting Disabled.


Sorry to be a pain, I am now wishing car ICE was the same as years afo when it was a case of connecting up a few wires and it all worked :/
Use speaker DC :thumbsup:
 
Use speaker DC :thumbsup:

Update, I've checked the power supply, there is 12V at the input power terminals. I've even also connected the brown MASTER ENABLE to this 12V lead but the amp still wont turn on.

Edit: With no power to the amp when I connect the laptop it defaults into offline mode.
 
Update, I've checked the power supply, there is 12V at the input power terminals. I've even also connected the brown MASTER ENABLE to this 12V lead but the amp still wont turn on.

Edit: With no power to the amp when I connect the laptop it defaults into offline mode.
What number is the preset selector set to? Are there any lights on the amp?
 
What number is the preset selector set to? Are there any lights on the amp?
No lights on the amp. Can’t remember the preset selector but I think it’s the one at 12 o’clock. Will check when I get back to van.
 
What number is the preset selector set to? Are there any lights on the amp?
Sorry to trouble you I have got this info, but I don’t really understand it

“connect the Speakersignal from your Radio to the Input and Power +/Ground -, try it without the brown wire. What is, when you connect the blue wire to acc?”

thanks again


Edit: I also have found this on page 6 of the manual.


  1. REMOTE:
    - REM IN. Input to turn on AP5.9 bit remotely through the audio signal source Remote Out. REM IN can be connected

    to the ignition switch terminal (ACC). The voltage must be between 7 and 14.5 VDC. If using a source with a amplified outputs, AP5.9 bit can be automatically turned on (see sec. 7.3.4.7), so it will not be necessary to connect the REM IN terminal.
Does this mean I need to connect the blue REM IN wire on the amp to a wire on the back of my head unit. From what I read before I thought it didnt need this but now Im wondering?

Edit2: I have now just joined the blue REM IN wire to as 12V supply and the illumination on the amp has come on. SO making progress.

Now I just need to know which wire on the back of the OEM head init I can connect to to power on the amp then hopefully thats the problem solved.
 
Last edited:
I appreciate this is an old thread but it’s the most relevant to my issue that I could find....

@Skyliner33 I think you have moved on since this post (vans that is) but did you resolve your issue with the audison amp not auto switching on?

I am in the midst of fitting an Audison SR 5.600 so although not the same model as yours I have the same issue in that the amp does not switch on when ART (auto switch on) is set. If I connect the blue remote input to 12v then the amp does indeed come alive.

Just wondered if a) you found out why your amp was not auto switching or b) you determined which wire in the Discover Media quad lock to tap into for “remote in“ (if you went that way)?

Cheers
 
Hi, yes I discovered what it was. I needed a module called an ASP To trick the head unit into not switching the amp off. There is another thing you can wire into the input leads to the amp to do the same thing. I will have a look later when I get a few more minutes.
 
There is no "REMOTE" in the quadlock as the van is setup as CANbus . . . with no IGN or REMOTE at the radio

if you want to use a remote trigger you will need a CANbus adaopter . . . to Generate a IGN supply and use that as the REMOTE signal.


with a CANbus module like these . . : Volkswagen VW Transporter & Caravelle T6 CAN BUS Radio harness/ ISO adapter lead | eBay


1613939766597.png


***

or like @Deaky said use the AMPS ART auto turn on . . . but no PC Laptop settings on this amp by the looks of it . .

just a switch - remember it needs to see VOLUME from the radio to auto switch on, so turn up the radio a bit to get the amp to wake up.

***

or use the ART feature as below:

HIGH LEVEL inputs must be used (the speaker outputs from the vans radio) into FRONT SPK IN and NOT RCAs.

The ART button must be set ON on the amp.


***



1613939900953.png

see note 11

1613940044543.png


..


1613940094959.png


...

note the ART:

1613940191439.png


1613940204648.png


...

SR 5.600

1613940319972.png


1613940332871.png



...



looks like a nice Amp BTW . . .
 
Hi, yes I discovered what it was. I needed a module called an ASP To trick the head unit into not switching the amp off. There is another thing you can wire into the input leads to the amp to do the same thing. I will have a look later when I get a few more minutes.

Cheers. Good to hear there is an answer.

Standing by.
 
Fancy . . . . very clever. - radios are getting too clever for there own good now days.

thanks for the heads-up @Skyliner33


just some research below:


Some OEM sources/head-units have a test circuit that monitors the presence of a low-impedance load to enable audio outputs.

When you connect this type of head-unit to the high-level inputs of an Audison bit processor, which has a high impedance load, audio outputs are silenced.




1613940872457.png

PRODUCT DETAILS
Some modern day head units monitor their speaker outputs for a low impedance load. If not seen, they selectively turn channels off. When using such head unit's speaker outputs with the high level (high impedance) inputs of a bit product, channels can be caused to switch off. The USS4 completely cures this issue accepting up to four channels. Furthermore, this hide away box allows for a turn on delay of up to 8 seconds to be added to avoid annoying "bumps and bangs" on power up.

  • Input/Output Channels 4
  • Input Power Max 50 W
  • Input Impedance 12 Ω
  • Output Impedance 12 Ω
  • Remote Out (only with 12 VDC Power Supply) 12 VDC 150 mA
  • Remote Out Delayed (only with 12 VDC Power Supply) 12 VDC 150 mA; 1 to 8 sec.
  • Weight (gr / lb.) 90 / 0.19
SPECIFICATION
WHATS INCLUDED

  • Audison USS4
 
BUT . . .

if your saying that the amp comes to life when you add the blue remote . . . . . and you hear music

then the radio IS OUTPUTTING audio . . . and the AST thing is not required.

(if the amp fire up and you had NO AUDIO, then the AST thing might help?)

got some pics of how you connected it up?
 
Hi Dellmassive, thanks for the detailed reply. I have tried to set up ART but it does not seem to switch on the amp. The “Remote in“ switches between 6.5 - 15 VDC so if I touch this to the 12v feed (leisure battery) then the amp comes alive.

Thanks for the info on the quadlock also. A Can adapter could be an option if I cannot get ART to work, but if that’s the case I may as well use an ignition feed although granted the amp will stay on until ignition off even if the head unit is off but this won’t be a problem.

I am just curious as to why the ART is not sensing the voltage from the speakers. I did turn up the volume on the head unit but still nothing and can confirm that if I wire the front (only running 3 channel with sub not connected yet until I sort the amp issue) speakers direct to the head unit is sound. I am not using the RCA inputs as per the instruction bit have wired the head unit out feeds into the Amp connector wire (blue speaker in front) as per your diagram.

I ran out of light today so if I get chance I will try tomorrow to get a voltage reading across the head unit speaker out terminals. ART should fire between 1.5 - 7 VDC (as per the manual).
 
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