Who can make me up a quadlock to quadlock harness (or knows where I can get one)?

[RobFlynn]

I've looked around and found various quadlock harnesses that break out front audio channels or add rears but not found exactly what I'm after.
I need something like this but with long tails out for rears channels, and tails out and back in again for front channels...

Quadlock to quadlock 2-channel front speaker breakout harness - InCarTec

Quadlock to quadlock 2-channel front speaker breakout harness. This harness is design to add an amplifier to the front speakers in cars that have quadlock connection at the head unit.

incartec.co.uk

Front and rear out need something like this incorporating to get a remote wire for amps. Dropping down to line level would be nice but not essential.

VW T6 Preout Cable

This plug & play adaptor is built in house specifically to allow you to add an amplifier to your factory fitted T6 stereo simply plug it in and

www.skiptoncarradio.com

There's then a need for another 6-10 wires I want as part of the same loom. These could just be taped onto a bought one as they don't need to go into the quadlock (not that they could).

What's the situation with the example above? The quadlock is missing all connections other than speakers. Whats the expectation here? Would I have to pull canibalise one connector for the other? Doesn't make sense.

If someone can make one, I have a decent diagram and would be interested in cost.

Thanks

 

[Pauly]

The quadlock is made up of a few different plugs and they can be clicked in/out of the main quadlock plug, if you are adding rear speakers then all you need is 4 x JPT crimps (junior power timer) to crimp on the end of your speaker cables and these can be pushed into the four empty speaker terminals on the headunit quadlock connector

10 x Junior Power Timer Contacts - Genuine TE Part . Part No. 964273-2 | eBay

10 x Junior Power Timer Contacts - Genuine TE Part . Part No. 964273-2.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[RobFlynn]

Thanks Pauly. I hadn’t realised the individual plugs came out.

I need 4 wires from block for front channels going to amp and same 4 going back to oem wiring to avoid having to route all new cable through dash and doors. Is there an individual female socket that will take the individual plug? Seems I would need one.

Rear channels need to come from plug and go rear speakers. These one day will go through an amp too. Also need a remote line for the amps.

 

[Deaky]

If you’re installing amps then I’d bypass the OEM wiring completely. It’s too thin.

 

[RobFlynn]

I was hoping it’d be OK. Is routing through A pillar into door a pain? I assume there’s a big multi-connect that will need more JPT crimps (or similar) in. If not, what? What’s the max gauge that will fit in the blocks?

 

[Deaky]

I was hoping it’d be OK. Is routing through A pillar into door a pain? I assume there’s a big multi-connect that will need more JPT crimps (or similar) in. If not, what? What’s the max gauge that will fit in the blocks?

It's a doddle, the wires go through a hole in line with the bellows. If you un clip the bellows you'll be able to see. There is a big plug where all the cables pass through but decent speaker cable will be too thick to use the pins in the plug.

 

[RobFlynn]

Deaky, you’re being very helpful and patient with me.

Are you saying the new cables would run within the bellows but not in the connector, or outside of the bellows and be visible?

Also, I noticed you mentioned in another thread about the delay from using auto sense to turn on amps and that it can cause clipping in sat nav and that you switched your amps to run remotes from ignition to avoid this problem. Would there be any issue with running remote from both ignition and auto sense so amps can still run with ignition off and head unit on?

 

[Deaky]

The cables would run through the bellows to the speaker in the door just not through the door multi connector that's zipped into a bag under the dash by the bellows opening.

I can't see how your amps can be remote on and auto sense on, On mine its a physical switch to select either option. Don't know what HU your using but on VW OEM in T6 you have to have the ignition on to operate it.

 

[RobFlynn]

Sorry, misuse of terminology on my part. You can get speaker to line level adapters that sense the presence of an audio signal and provide a remote signal. I figured this would give me a remote-on whenever the headunit is outputting continuous sound even with ignition off. An ignition live would provide a permanent remote signal whilst ignition is on. Dead spots in audio wouldn't prevent the amps from powering down when driving.

I'm probably over thinking this and an ignition live is the way to go for now, then add a live with switch from Leisure battery when I get to that point. Where's the best location to pick up an ignition live?

I'm going to have to pull a bellows off later and have a look. I think what you say makes sense but in a Golf EVERYTHING had to go through a connector between the door and a pillar which was with the bellows – I imagined it would be the same.

 

[Deaky]

T6 isn't that sophisticated. The bellows are literally a rubber tunnel between the van and the door. The door connection plug is separate and under the dash.

Best place for IGN live is any fuse in the center column of the center fuse box. What head unit are you using?

 

[RobFlynn]

OEM head unit without nav.
Those basic bellows open up a whole world of ambient lighting and puddle lights. One job at a time though!
Thanks for all your help.

 

[Deaky]

OEM head unit without nav.
Those basic bellows open up a whole world of ambient lighting and puddle lights. One job at a time though!
Thanks for all your help.

You can’t power an OEM head unit from your leisure battery so you’ll have to have the ignition on.

 

[Dav-Tec]

@RobFlynn I can make you a harness buddy

 

[Absolut5]

I've looked around and found various quadlock harnesses that break out front audio channels or add rears but not found exactly what I'm after.
I need something like this but with long tails out for rears channels, and tails out and back in again for front channels...

Quadlock to quadlock 2-channel front speaker breakout harness - InCarTec

Quadlock to quadlock 2-channel front speaker breakout harness. This harness is design to add an amplifier to the front speakers in cars that have quadlock connection at the head unit.

incartec.co.uk

Front and rear out need something like this incorporating to get a remote wire for amps. Dropping down to line level would be nice but not essential.

VW T6 Preout Cable

This plug & play adaptor is built in house specifically to allow you to add an amplifier to your factory fitted T6 stereo simply plug it in and

www.skiptoncarradio.com

There's then a need for another 6-10 wires I want as part of the same loom. These could just be taped onto a bought one as they don't need to go into the quadlock (not that they could).

What's the situation with the example above? The quadlock is missing all connections other than speakers. Whats the expectation here? Would I have to pull canibalise one connector for the other? Doesn't make sense.

If someone can make one, I have a decent diagram and would be interested in cost.

Thanks

We can manufacture what you require.. drop us pm or call us.. we keep all parts in stock