What have I gone and bought..?

Sorry to butt in but does a euro 5 caac 140 engine have this problem. I cant find a label on my egr cooler to identify type fitted.
I have had the van from new and haven't heard of this before, thanks.
I’m not sure. My van was registered in May 2016, from some manufacturing dates I’ve seen on other components I suspect it was built in March 2016.
It has a Rev D EGR unit from new.
The Rev D seems to have first used very approximately Q4 2015 / Q1 2016, don’t take this as 100%, it’s a deduction from my research when I was looking to buy a CFCA.
@mmi may have better information.
 
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Thanks for that, my build was 11/15.
My egr unit appears different from the previous pictures and is at the back of the caac 140 hp engine.
 
Thanks for that, my build was 11/15.
My egr unit appears different from the previous pictures and is at the back of the caac 140 hp engine.
It’s a different animal, If I were you I’d look a bit further into it, you might even find a helpful main dealer mechanic.
 
Sorry to butt in but does a euro 5 caac 140 engine have this problem. I cant find a label on my egr cooler to identify type fitted.
I have had the van from new and haven't heard of this before, thanks.

It’s a different animal, If I were you I’d look a bit further into it, you might even find a helpful main dealer mechanic.
Yes, indeed a different animal. CAAC engine has no relationship to the mentioned EGR cooler problem.
 

More expensive than other T6 engine variants EGRs as incorporates the oil filter and oil cooler.
 
G'day people,

In local parlance I've just bought a dual cab ute... or tray top to be more precise but as the glovebox manual is yet to arrive I'm trying to figure out exactly what I've got in Volkswagen jargon.

Being an antipodean model I suspect it was shipped on Noah's boat and thus took forever to be delivered. I fully expect there could be some discrepancies between Australian specifications and those countries with for example, actual fuel standards beyond the "she'll be right" kind of stuff dispensed here.

Build is listed as 8/15 but local compliance was 11/16 & first registration was 31/3/2017..!

Despite that it's only covered 59 000km so far.

I know it's black, 4motion, 6 speed manual sadly without a rear diff lock. There's factory alloy wheels installed bythe dealer, better aftermarket tray, drawers, air helper springs & Bilstein dampers all round. I'm lead to believe it's a 4cyl 2litre diesel and there's a couple turbos that make 132kW/400Nm (175 'awsepower?)

The stickers in the door jambs are of course full of code but none of it means much to the untrained eye, so I thought I should ask the experts... because the local dealers aren't much use in my experience.

It seems likea pretty good jigger so far but I've got a couple pressing concerns at the top of the upgrade list.

Firstly it needs an electric trailer brake controller fitted... the existing trailer base appears to have just been hacked into the rear loom with scotchlock connectors :/ So I don't know if there's a control module, factory wiring kit or anything else already fitted except that I'll need a brake light signal to feed the electric brake unit.

Secondly, all the locals driving Tojo Landcruisers, Navaras etc are mad for installing aftermarket crankcase breather catch cans... like this thing :


Is there a good reason not to use one of these on Europe's finest emissions dodging engineering?

Thanks in advance anyway...

Cheers

View attachment 133405

View attachment 133406

View attachment 133408

View attachment 133409
you got a nice truck what's the make?
 
G'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!

The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.

For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.

20191227_120858.jpg

They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.

20191227_120845.jpg

But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!


20191227_120813.jpg
 
G'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!

The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.

For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.

View attachment 135613

They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.

View attachment 135614

But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!


View attachment 135615
Very good post! Interesting info and an entertaining read too! Thank you
 
G'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!

The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.

For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.

View attachment 135613

They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.

View attachment 135614

But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!


View attachment 135615

Thanks, every day’s a school day!
 
G'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!

The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.

For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.

View attachment 135613

They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.

View attachment 135614

But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!


View attachment 135615
Hi Cat,

I knew the poms were silly but I didn't realise they could run a 2999kg trailer with over ride brakes..?

The rules here are anything 750kg and up needs brakes, commonly mechanical or hydraulic override, the latter being fairly useless because they fill with moisture & variously fail after barely a year living outside as trailers do.

Anything 2000kg and up must have load sharing suspension and brakes on all wheels, that can be operated independently by the driver. Noah's boat trailer probably had hydraulics with a vacuum operation arrangement.

These days the standard is electrically actuated brakes. They have magnets in the hubs and a controller in the vehicle, which has accelerometers to measure how to apply the brakes proportionally, which I need to install to run several different trailers.

Latest idea is a trailer mounted electric controller with inbuilt sensors to do most of the work and a phone app to give you remote control (what could possibly go wrong!?)

Either way a trailer mounted battery and pull switch give you "breakaway" application as you've mentioned.


The infuriating party is that my local VW dealer tells me that the factory trailer loom is no longer available... which could just be the easy answer. He didn't seem to realise there's a statutory obligation to back up parts for a vehicle sold in Australia for 7 years.

I'll be back to question him about why I was charged for a pollen filter that wasn't fitted and brake flush that wasn't done yesterday...
 
So I've been for my first experience of VW dealer service, with one of the largest and longest established motor groups in the state capital.

They also sell other premium eurotrash like Audi, RangeRover & Jaguar with different doors and different staff for them.

Anyway the upshot is that I've been defrauded by the c#nts with the shitiest service I've ever seen.

$65 (£34) for a pollen filter they did not install.
$181 (£96) for a diesel filter
$13 (£7) for brake fluid they didn't flush through it

All up :
$930 (£493) for service #4 according to the service book they didn't fill out

Everyone else gets the car washed but mine is "too tall for the washbay" so they didn't even bother cleaning the windscreen.

The "screenwasher check and adjustment" seemed to miss a hole in the flexible line between bonnet and body, water pissing out of the LHS escaped their attention.

Yes the tyres are shot, I know, I already have new ones. Do the brakes have squealers built in? They don't know, probably a warning light..?

Turns out it needs brakes soon and they -don't- have them in stock... largest dealer in a city over 1 million... who'd have thought?

Anyway I should ask what the actual service schedule is for this vehicle... because I'm going to go back and thump the counter about how little I've got for my money.

I've been told by a fellow local enthusiast that he would prefer to change the oil & filter in the haldex more often than they specify. Dealer didn't listen to my request...

Any suggestions as to oil spec or intervals for the 6 speed manual?

I'm also keen to change engine oil more often because 15000km is a travestey... especially when the dealer hasn't ticked the long life oil box..?
 
So I've been for my first experience of VW dealer service, with one of the largest and longest established motor groups in the state capital.

They also sell other premium eurotrash like Audi, RangeRover & Jaguar with different doors and different staff for them.

Anyway the upshot is that I've been defrauded by the c#nts with the shitiest service I've ever seen.

$65 (£34) for a pollen filter they did not install.
$181 (£96) for a diesel filter
$13 (£7) for brake fluid they didn't flush through it

All up :
$930 (£493) for service #4 according to the service book they didn't fill out

Everyone else gets the car washed but mine is "too tall for the washbay" so they didn't even bother cleaning the windscreen.

The "screenwasher check and adjustment" seemed to miss a hole in the flexible line between bonnet and body, water pissing out of the LHS escaped their attention.

Yes the tyres are shot, I know, I already have new ones. Do the brakes have squealers built in? They don't know, probably a warning light..?

Turns out it needs brakes soon and they -don't- have them in stock... largest dealer in a city over 1 million... who'd have thought?

Anyway I should ask what the actual service schedule is for this vehicle... because I'm going to go back and thump the counter about how little I've got for my money.

I've been told by a fellow local enthusiast that he would prefer to change the oil & filter in the haldex more often than they specify. Dealer didn't listen to my request...

Any suggestions as to oil spec or intervals for the 6 speed manual?

I'm also keen to change engine oil more often because 15000km is a travestey... especially when the dealer hasn't ticked the long life oil box..?
Jeez wept! What did he do? Rub it with an oily rag and call it a service?!!
 
Overfilled it with "Castrol EP LL III 5w30" actually

$126 (£67) for however much it holds.

And $46 (£24) for a filter
At least he used longlife oil!

Still, he sounds like an example of why “care in the community” doesn’t work!
 
I should also ask what the service procedure is for the haldex..? because I don't think they checked it like the book says.. :/

Arseholes.
 
 
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