VWT6 CXEB NON START After rebuild (2017)

[DXX]

It blew one of the turbos in February, I pulled the engine and stripped it completely. I had the turbo re built and had the cylinders relined at the same time. With the re build I replaced all the necessary seals/gaskets lapped in the valves etc.

Did you establish why the turbocharger failed?
Were the oil feeds a drains proven clear and flushed?
Was the charge air cooler replaced / back flushed?

 

[DXX]

I am wondering if I should renew the boost pipes as I have had them on and off a fair few times now and the rubber is alot softer

You would hear if the rubber ducts are leaking

 

[cottya]

Did you establish why the turbocharger failed?
Were the oil feeds a drains proven clear and flushed?
Was the charge air cooler replaced / back flushed?

The shaft snapped on one of the turbines. I had both the turbos completely rebuilt.
I checked the oil pipes were clear.
I didnt change the charge air cooler. But did do a cursory check with compressed air

 

[Clay]

Good news that you have fuel to all injectors. You mentioned earlier that the charge air cooler needed to be removed to do this?
Have you fully re-assembled the induction system when you are trying to start? If not the MAF isn’t going to register.

Will these not run with maf sensor disconected?

 

[DXX]

@cottya what was the outcome?
Last seen 2024!

 

[Clay]

@cottya what was the outcome?
Last seen 2024!

Sorry i thought id put it up here, it was injectors sticking, had to use scope to see injector signal couldnt see it with a noid light

 

[Dellmassive]

Sorry i thought id put it up here, it was injectors sticking, had to use scope to see injector signal couldnt see it with a noid light

Sticking closed?

 

[Clay]

Yes, injectors had beed out out engine for a fair time and seized, there was no fault code for this and vcs was showing injectors to be opening, only way i could prove the injectors were getting a signal was with a scope,hope this is of some help

 

[Dellmassive]

Yes, injectors had beed out out engine for a fair time and seized, there was no fault code for this and vcs was showing injectors to be opening, only way i could prove the injectors were getting a signal was with a scope,hope this is of some help

What was the fix?

I injector reconditioning?

So you proved fuel starvation was the issue by adding extra fuel? Easy start?

 

[Clay]

What was the fix?

I injector reconditioning?

So you proved fuel starvation was the issue by adding extra fuel? Easy start?

It would run on easy start,
New injectors was the fix, if you get a shop to test them the seizure will show up straight away on a test rig

 

[Hughes72]

Hi everyone,
Not T6 I know but previous transporter owner I have a 2019 bitdi crafter, I brought it non running the engine was caput(crank snapped), I’ve just fitted a new long block, It’s Trying to fire but won’t run, I’ve removed clamp to DPF to eliminate blocked DPF, bled properly and Cracked off pipes to injectors fuel is getting there as I know they can be a pain to get bled, I’ve attached some fuel info from ODIS if anyone can take a look. Drawing a blank I thought maybe fuel pump but pressure seems to be getting high enough when cranking. After cranking I pulled the feed pipe off to the filter the one with the return on it and there’s a lot of pressure on the pipe when disconnecting not sure if that means anything. There’s 2 things which I know of, 1 is the plug is broken on the oil pressure regulating valve in the block which is the only engine fault (can’t see that not letting it fire though) and the other is I dismantled the inlet manifold to clean it all when changing engines and thinking about it I think I set the off position to closed so intake manifold may be shut, but I vacuum’d it to open it incase it is and still not starting, I will take it off but can’t see that not letting it run.

 

[DXX]

Hi everyone,
Not T6 I know but previous transporter owner I have a 2019 bitdi crafter, I brought it non running the engine was caput(crank snapped), I’ve just fitted a new long block, It’s Trying to fire but won’t run, I’ve removed clamp to DPF to eliminate blocked DPF, bled properly and Cracked off pipes to injectors fuel is getting there as I know they can be a pain to get bled, I’ve attached some fuel info from ODIS if anyone can take a look. Drawing a blank I thought maybe fuel pump but pressure seems to be getting high enough when cranking. After cranking I pulled the feed pipe off to the filter the one with the return on it and there’s a lot of pressure on the pipe when disconnecting not sure if that means anything. There’s 2 things which I know of, 1 is the plug is broken on the oil pressure regulating valve in the block which is the only engine fault (can’t see that not letting it fire though) and the other is I dismantled the inlet manifold to clean it all when changing engines and thinking about it I think I set the off position to closed so intake manifold may be shut, but I vacuum’d it to open it incase it is and still not starting, I will take it off but can’t see that not letting it run.

View attachment 311804

View attachment 311805

I’m certainly not expert in ODIS but why would the crankshaft and camshaft sensors be registering different RPM?

 

[Hughes72]

Seems like it’s just how it’s recording the live data maybe a slight delay, there generally pretty close depending on when I pause the reading sometime the Crank is going faster and visa versa ?

 

[mmi]

Hi everyone,
Not T6 I know but previous transporter owner I have a 2019 bitdi crafter, I brought it non running the engine was caput(crank snapped), I’ve just fitted a new long block, It’s Trying to fire but won’t run, I’ve removed clamp to DPF to eliminate blocked DPF, bled properly and Cracked off pipes to injectors fuel is getting there as I know they can be a pain to get bled, I’ve attached some fuel info from ODIS if anyone can take a look. Drawing a blank I thought maybe fuel pump but pressure seems to be getting high enough when cranking. After cranking I pulled the feed pipe off to the filter the one with the return on it and there’s a lot of pressure on the pipe when disconnecting not sure if that means anything. There’s 2 things which I know of, 1 is the plug is broken on the oil pressure regulating valve in the block which is the only engine fault (can’t see that not letting it fire though) and the other is I dismantled the inlet manifold to clean it all when changing engines and thinking about it I think I set the off position to closed so intake manifold may be shut, but I vacuum’d it to open it incase it is and still not starting, I will take it off but can’t see that not letting it run.

I believe the data in the screenshot points to the injectors because

• cranking speed is good - enough for the ECU to fire injectors
• engine gets enough air - air mass 5.37 g/s
• fuel pressure is 300 bars - good enough for the ECU to fire injectors
• main injection duration is nonzero - indicating that ECU is indeed firing the injectors

So it seems that the injectors just don't squirt fuel into cylinders. Have they been long unused? How many miles on them? I guess the engine runs on starter fluid?

 

[Hughes72]

Thank you for the reply, Yes it seems that way as if the injectors aren’t firing, the cranking starts getting faster as if it wants to go but just won’t run, but the issue is that It is a Brand new genuine engine with new injectors haha……

 

[manfrotto]

Dont the injectors need to be coded to the ECU? although I wouldnt expect that to stop the engine statring.

 

[Dellmassive]

As above does it fire with starter fluid?

The new injectors need coding in the ecm.

And the new engine high oil pressure program needs setting for the wear in period.

 

[Hughes72]

As above does it fire with starter fluid?

The new injectors need coding in the ecm.

And the new engine high oil pressure program needs setting for the wear in period.

Yeah it starts with starter fluid have to keep feeding it to keep it alive tho, Injectors have been programmed and high oil pressure has been activated aswell.

 

[Dellmassive]

So no fuel them.

Injectors stuck closed?

Maybe get them tested?

 

[Hughes72]

Still not starting, Have an update, The crank snapped on the old engine and ruined the bottom pulley, I had one that I put on the new engine as I thought they were all the same on euro 6 (turns out there not will update with part numbers) Checked my camshaft timing phase position and it’s at 5.3’ doesn’t change at all while cranking, Fitted correct crank pulley and timed up again no difference, Took camcover off to check cams, visibly all ok but looked down injector holes and crank was 360 out ! 2&3 at the top. Timed up correctly now but still not firing, Cam still visibly looks in the correct positions but do we think that the 5.3’ is enough for it to not fire ?. May need a new cam box.