Thick Red Live Electric Cable under drivers seat, for winch?

[Glenn Board]

I am installing a winch inside the van to pull in my Hot Air Balloon, I need to connect it obviously to a live, looking under the passenger seat I found a thick red live cable, can't believe my luck looks ideal, does anybody know what this cable was originally installed for, and will it support the amps of a electric winch underlay, and what fuse it will be connected to please?

 

[T6 Dave's Dad]

@Glenn Board my understanding is that it is a direct, fused, connection to the main battery. Someone more qualified will update you soon I'm sure.

 

[T6 Dave]

I wouldn't use it, a bit thin for the intended load for me.. Id put in a leisure battery, with a smart charge system, then go from that, via an isolator switch and fuse etc to winch..

 

[Pauly]

The cable you have found is a direct feed from the 'E' box located under the battery, this cable is used to feed additional equipment/options if present.
Depending on vehicle spec this will have a 50A or 100A fuse protecting it at source but to access it to check you have to access the 'E' box which is located underneath the battery in the engine bay so you need to completely remove the battery and unbolt the plate underneath to remove it and access the fuses

As @T6 Dave says this may not be big enough for your intended use depending on the size/rating of your winch.
Check out VW T6 Fusebox - Fusebox/Fuse Chart SA - Primary Battery Fusebox

 

[Glenn Board]

Thank you for all of the advice, I think it maybe better if I go directly onto the battery, then nothing to worry about, but if you think that this feed would be man enough the spec of the winch is under full load 200amps?

There is a rubber grommet just to the left of the battery with a angled entry tube, would this be a good entry for the cables?

 

[T6 Dave]

I'd do as I suggested, also prevents a flat battery..

 

[Loz]

If I were you I would fit a second battery under the seat and use the cable for a split charger and connect the winch directly to the second battery.

 

[Glenn Board]

So basically use the red cable that is under the seat, and connect it to a battery, and the winch directly to the battery, and the red cable would keep it charged? I would always have the engine running whilst using the winch.

 

[T6 Dave]

I'd put a smart charger on the end of the red cable, this connects and charges the second battery. Then from that via a fused link to a cutout switch to isolate winch from power in case of emergency, and so that it isn't activated by accident. Then out to winch from the other side of the cutout switch.

 

[Pauly]

As above, a second battery does seem like a good solution and provides separation from the vehicle electrics and prevents any problems with starting the vehicle etc

 

[Glenn Board]

Sounds good, so what size battery would I need to go for, and what size fuse please?

 

[travelvolts]

Actually for the amount of time the winch is likely to run for it wouldn't be a problem connected to the vehicle battery if used with the engine running. 200 amps is unlikely unless your balloon weighs a couple of tons!

 

[Pauly]

What cable size/fuse would you recommend for that @travelvolts for short burst consumption ?

 

[travelvolts]

Difficult to say without seeing the full spec on the winch but based on previous jobs I would think 16 mm cable and a 100 amp fuse would do it.

 

[Bryn23]

I've wired up a few winches on Quad bikes, Boats and 4x4's, but I've always ran a new cable (the mm2 depends on the distance and the load the which was drawing) straight to the main battery and fused close to the battery terminal.

The fuse/circuit breaker size really comes down to the winch you are running, and id assume that that VW red live cable is maybe on the small side.

I always have the vehicle running when using a winch, nothing worse than draining your main battery and no enough juice to kick over the vehicle or boat when ready to head off.

but if I'm using a winch it means I'm stuck if its on a vehicle, or my anchor is deep in the boat, so there is a far bit of use, which maybe different to dragging a balloon

 

[Glenn Board]

380kg, but initially it will be dragged, but you are right it won’t be for long, but better to go directly to the battery rather than r d live under seat as it might not have enough draw?

 

[Glenn Board]

The winch currently has 6mm cable, so i was planning to run 10mm cable to an ANDERSON PLUG so the winch can be removable, and probably better to have an isolator switch under the dash of the van, so do I also need a fuse, and if so what size should I go for that will be up to the job and not blow under normal use.

Line Pull - No Load: 3.6 m/min (20 Amps)
Line Pull - Full Load: 1.5 m/min (200 Amps)

Below is a link of the manual system that I have built so far, so the electric winch will make it easier.

 

[Loz]

I made a demountable winch for our old Disco 2 back in 2004 16mm cable and 300A Anderson plugs.
And dynema rope. But I suspect you are not going for a winch this big?

 

[Glenn Board]

No, not that big, total weight will be just under 400kg, and will be pulled for a max of 3m

 

[T6 Dave's Dad]

The winch currently has 6mm cable, so i was planning to run 10mm cable to an ANDERSON PLUG so the winch can be removable, and probably better to have an isolator switch under the dash of the van, so do I also need a fuse, and if so what size should I go for that will be up to the job and not blow under normal use.

Line Pull - No Load: 3.6 m/min (20 Amps)
Line Pull - Full Load: 1.5 m/min (200 Amps)

Below is a link of the manual system that I have built so far, so the electric winch will make it easier.

Nice system @Glenn Board and I can see why an electric winch is preferable.

On your proposed use of isolator switch and Anderson plug I would consider carefully putting a fuse between them lower than max rating on the Anderson plug. However, I'm not an auto electrician, just cautious about overloading electrics.