Sound deadening the wheel arches, how easy?

[Scruffy]

Whilst my wheels were off today ( winters off) I had a look at the rear wheel arch covers. Is it just a case of taking off the 4 screws to remove the covers, or are there anymore hidden catches?

 

[Absolut5]

Metal clip and 4 screws, and if you have mud flaps then a bolt, then they just pop out, very easy

 

[Scruffy]

Thanks. I've seen the 4 screws but where is clip?

 

[Absolut5]

There is a flat clamping washer on the lower edge of the trim towards the middle ...

You find it when you start taking it off

 

[phil_n]

What's the best type of sound deadening to use in this application?

 

[xpfloyd]

What's the best type of sound deadening to use in this application?

Was about to ask this very question. I am going to use 2mm silent coat on the inside of the arch but wondered if I could use the same on the outside/underside? I have silent coat left spare

 

[Twoguns]

I've done this very job @xpfloyd @phil_n @Scruffy and this is a cut and paste from a previous thread.

Jack the van up, wheel off then there's four screws that you can see on the face of the liner and two bolts just underneath the van. Pull the arch liner out and give the metal work a good clean with a alcohol based cleaner.
The cable you can see unclips and the clips then unscrew so you don't have to stick around them.
It's then just a case of cutting strips of Dynamat or Silent Coat into manageable lengths and roll it on as firmly as you can. Don't be tempted to do too bigger piece as it won't go on very well. I found pieces between 6" and 3" wide best and in various lengths depending on the surface shape.

To be honest it's not made much if any difference. I was expecting this and plan on adding a layer of Dodo Pro Barrier MLV as recommended by some on top. (Not 100% sure all this will fit so will be a case of trial and error).

 

[xpfloyd]

Thanks @Twoguns . Ill give this a go.

 

[Absolut5]

What's the best type of sound deadening to use in this application?

We always use Dynamat on the arches, as it sticks far better then other brands

 

[DPS]

We always use Dynamat on the arches, as it sticks far better then other brands

Does sound deadening the arches make much difference, especially when it's carpeted inside? i.e can you tell the difference?

 

[Twoguns]

Does sound deadening the arches make much difference, especially when it's carpeted inside? i.e can you tell the difference?

To be honest I didn’t find any difference once I complete the job above and my van has been carpeted inside with no Dynamat or silent coat over the wheel arches, just carpet.
Maybe it was the wrong product for this application or the noise is not coming from that area. I have been in the back whilst my wife drives and I have a suspicion that the noise may be coming through the floor in the load area behind the Kombi Seats.
Unfortunately since then I’ve not had the time or the inclination to investigate or spend anymore money on the van and just turn the radio up.

 

[Deleted Member]

Does sound deadening the arches make much difference, especially when it's carpeted inside? i.e can you tell the difference?

I was about to ask the same.

My van is having 'ultra sound deadening' shortly, but I was surprised that under the wheel arches isn't included and apparently not needed.

 

[Abbo]

I’ve just carpeted and soundproofed the inside of my van. I still have the same problem as twoguns. I was tempted to whip up the flooring and put some sound deadening under the floor. I’ve done the ceiling and side panels with sound deadening, noise foam, Dacron, 3mm mdf and carpet. I’ve got the ceiling panels left to carpet and put the mdf up. I’m hoping this should cut the echo a bit more and absorb the sound.

 

[Lukavell]

I've soundproofed the doors, sides, floor, roof and interior wheel arches of my T5 and pretty much killed the road noise. Now all I can hear is the engine and the swivel seat squeaking!!

 

[PukkaT6]

The noise drives me mad, sounds like the floor is the main culprit.

 

[LeeW]

I've done this very job @xpfloyd @phil_n @Scruffy and this is a cut and paste from a previous thread.

Jack the van up, wheel off then there's four screws that you can see on the face of the liner and two bolts just underneath the van. Pull the arch liner out and give the metal work a good clean with a alcohol based cleaner.
The cable you can see unclips and the clips then unscrew so you don't have to stick around them.
It's then just a case of cutting strips of Dynamat or Silent Coat into manageable lengths and roll it on as firmly as you can. Don't be tempted to do too bigger piece as it won't go on very well. I found pieces between 6" and 3" wide best and in various lengths depending on the surface shape.

To be honest it's not made much if any difference. I was expecting this and plan on adding a layer of Dodo Pro Barrier MLV as recommended by some on top. (Not 100% sure all this will fit so will be a case of trial and error).
View attachment 6988View attachment 6989View attachment 6990

Hi, I was just following this tread and took your suggestion to add some Dodo Pro Barrier MLV over the top of the Silent Coat. Did you ever do it and if so how do you stick the Dodo Pro Barrier to the Silent coat base? The Dodo Pro Barrier MLV I have doesn't appear to have a sticky side. I'm aiming at doing as much in one job as possible. Getting my 20" wheels off is a pain the backside

Cheers.

 

[DXX]

Hi, I was just following this tread and took your suggestion to add some Dodo Pro Barrier MLV over the top of the Silent Coat. Did you ever do it and if so how do you stick the Dodo Pro Barrier to the Silent coat base? The Dodo Pro Barrier MLV I have doesn't appear to have a sticky side. I'm aiming at doing as much in one job as possible. Getting my 20" wheels off is a pain the backside

Cheers.

I was advised by a professional converter that Dynamat is preferable to Silent Coat in external applications as it has better adhesion.
I’ve used Dynamat Xtreme on;
Front arches (externally).
Front door skins plus inner door frames.
Front wings which as easy to do with the front wheel arch liners out. I’m not sure if the wings are creating noise in the cab but given a tap they are very noisy panels.
10mm acoustic foam on front door cards.
I’m about to do the rear arches externally with Dynamat Xtreme and will probably use left over 10mm foam on the rear arch liners.

I hope this hopes, further details in the thread.

 

[DXX]

@LeeW Other detail:

I added 10mm self adhesive acoustic foam to the front arch liners today, from the top down to the rear, the front half left bare. It made a noticeable difference for very little cost and time. There was no requirement to use longer screws as cut out for the body flange and two pads on the liner.
All arches are now externally fitted with Dynamat Xtreme, rear liners completely covered with 10mm foam and front liners covered 50%.
Both doors are done with Dynamat Xtreme and 10mm foam on the cards.
Both front wings are done with Dynamat, they ring like a cymbal when bare, not sure how much was entering the cab so did them anyway.
Rest of the van was done professionally with Silent Coat and foam except the cab floor which I’ll be leaving for now.
Next I’m doing the front steps and scuttle.
I highly recommend foam coating the arch liners.