Ha ha. Enjoy ur beer. Thanks for your help.
Assuming you drove to the person who load tested the battery it will have been charging up to the point it was load tested. Load testing is simulating starting an engine (cranking), high load for a second or two.
If you want to prove your battery, full charge it with a battery charger then disconnect and leave it a few days before checking the voltage and re-connecting to the charger.
If the voltage is down and the battery takes further charging it’s well past it’s best.
I had the battery out of van and took it in the car each time so wouldn't have had a charge straight before test. I am wondering if it's still ok for cranking but no good at holding a deep charge. I'm going to change batteries over later tonight.
This is my spare one I was given.
LSLC104-12 Lucas Numax AGM Battery 12V 104Ah (SLC104-12)
LSLC104-12 Lucas AGM/VRLA Mobility Battery <i>You know the name. You know the colour</i> Lucas Automotive was a Birmingham-based British company for many years and now is owned by an American corporation who famously founded Lucas Oil. Lucas is visually and verbally well known in the automotive...
www.tayna.co.uk
After all that it seems like its leisure battery. It looks like when they test a battery they arectestibg the internals for a short and cranking capability and not if the leisure battery it still ok. I still have mine on charge and will swap it over tonight to prove it once and for all but it's been running for 2 days on my spare one absolutely fine.
Is your spare one suitable to use in van rather than buy new one
I suppose it is it's just a bit smaller ah. Only by about 10ah mind. I was thinking to get a slightly bigger ah maybe like 150ah. I have space for a longer battery it's just a bit of wasted space so I was thinking go bigger. Last year we travelled Europe for 3 weeks and didnt need hookup and we dont normally hook sites we just drive and see where we end up so I could do with more ah storage.
If you have room to fit it a bigger amphour battery is the way to go
I have a 120ah Fullriver agm Deep Cycle, I would have got a 150ah one but it was too big to fit , members in the UK will know more what is available .
Fridgefridgefridge
New Member
Hi Pummer, I just ready this entire thread holding my breath because I have had the exact same issues with my fridge! I wanted to check, before I try ripping out fuses and cables etc, was it definitely your battery that was the issue? Is the fridge fine now? Thanks!
This thread is 5 years old and Pummer not been on the forum since November last year
Back to where it all started, check the voltage at the back of the fridge making sure that the connections towards the fridge are good. Waeco / Dometic compressor fridges don't like low volts, the manual quotes the following....
Cut-off voltage 10.4 V
Cut-in voltage 11.7 V
Remember that any other consumers on the leisure system will also drop the battery voltage.
Here's a link to the manual if you haven't got one.
The cable size is also quoted, see pages 22 & 9
Cut-off voltage 10.4 V
Cut-in voltage 11.7 V
Remember that any other consumers on the leisure system will also drop the battery voltage.
Here's a link to the manual if you haven't got one.
The cable size is also quoted, see pages 22 & 9
