Deleted. Same question as above post. Thanks
Relocating the Eberspacher hot air outlet.
- Thread starter Skyliner33
- Start date
A professional did that? Awful workmanship.
" traditional" doesn't really give a clue as to the layout! Seats on rails suddenly appeared earlier hence needing an idea as to what you have and intend to be able to advise without casting about in the dark.
Spigot example:
" traditional" doesn't really give a clue as to the layout! Seats on rails suddenly appeared earlier hence needing an idea as to what you have and intend to be able to advise without casting about in the dark.
Spigot example:
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Yes, as stated in my original post it was AJConversions.
I will get one of those spigots.
As for my van I will try to get better shots tomorrow. But basically it’s got VW California rails and a Cali 2seat 112cm bed. I want a set of camper furniture to round down the side.
I want something like this (example not what I’m looking at)
Mine is an AJC installation, if you look from underneath it's understandable the hole is where it is and yes - there is a spigot installed...
On the LHS of this photo is where the connection is to the side step for cold air to be sucked in.
On the RHS of this photo is where the connection is to the underside of the floor for warm air to be thrown out.
The RHS hole is drilled in the floor as close to a reinforcing structure as possible, so I can't see how it could be drilled safely any closer to the seat base, without drilling into this strengthening piece of steel:
A spigot is used & screwed to the floor (viewed from underneath):
The hole is cleaned & treated with black goo:
A spigot is used (viewed from the cab):
Using this black protective goo:
Which, according to the H&S info is good stuff to use:
Which when fitted with a kitchen & the drivers seat in a standard driving position, the exit point is a pretty good use of available, unused space, whilst not having to drill into any safety / structural steel:
I don't think @Skyliner33 wanted the box fitted, so @AJCConversions, (I imagine) left the trunking to be installed as & when / where was necessary for any future install of camping units.
On the LHS of this photo is where the connection is to the side step for cold air to be sucked in.
On the RHS of this photo is where the connection is to the underside of the floor for warm air to be thrown out.
The RHS hole is drilled in the floor as close to a reinforcing structure as possible, so I can't see how it could be drilled safely any closer to the seat base, without drilling into this strengthening piece of steel:
A spigot is used & screwed to the floor (viewed from underneath):
The hole is cleaned & treated with black goo:
A spigot is used (viewed from the cab):
Using this black protective goo:
Which, according to the H&S info is good stuff to use:
Which when fitted with a kitchen & the drivers seat in a standard driving position, the exit point is a pretty good use of available, unused space, whilst not having to drill into any safety / structural steel:
I don't think @Skyliner33 wanted the box fitted, so @AJCConversions, (I imagine) left the trunking to be installed as & when / where was necessary for any future install of camping units.
So - if that is the idea, have the outlet/s at the base of one of these units. You just need a shorter door and a fixed strip at the base.
Is there any chance that you could utilise OEM California style vents in the B pillar?
That’s what I have. I would point out that I would prefer the vent to be from under the seat because it blows straight onto the furniture as it is (remember the California has the furniture on the left). However, I have 3D-printed a duct to direct the flow along the rear of the seat base and into the cabin, so am happier now.
The irony is that I don’t have a battery under my drivers seat, so there is plenty of room for a vent!
That’s what I have. I would point out that I would prefer the vent to be from under the seat because it blows straight onto the furniture as it is (remember the California has the furniture on the left). However, I have 3D-printed a duct to direct the flow along the rear of the seat base and into the cabin, so am happier now.
The irony is that I don’t have a battery under my drivers seat, so there is plenty of room for a vent!
But the fridge would be getting the benefit of the hot air from B-pillar ducts as he wants the fridge behind the driver's seat.
Who on earth stuck the silencer on the end like that? It should be mounted close to the heater exhaust outlet:
AJC did that.
Oh dear!
That's what I was thinking as a good option.
The seat moves on rails. Is there space underneath to allow air flow if it was moved and covered the outlet?
Yes I know. That is why I printed the duct to direct it away from the furniture housing my fridge. I still need to add some trunking to move the outlet to the edge of the furniture, but it’s better than it was.
It’s not ideal, but it is an option that would enable the deletion of the existing trunking and its exit point.
Yes, looking at the examples above.
I can see the idea, that would then leave me with the issue of finding a converter to redesign their cad files for a one off build, which I cant see being cheap.
I did that with NWCC to enable a Wallas XC Duo hob/heater installation instead of their standard gas system, a couple of hundred quid from what I remember.
If you are going down the twin single front seats route it’s much better to have a radiussed cupboard at the front of the furniture unit, that way the drivers seat is actually usable instead of wrapping your feet around the hand brake lever.
Hi,
We installed the exhaust that way as per Eberspaechers instructions which can be found here on page 5, point 7. https://www.jacksonsleisure.com/con...8s6rHgtb-f9DTI-gXUk70uRSTSA_YC2ywiAR67gZtDOja
All heaters are different with different instructions to go with them, but any install we perform is covered by Eber's 3 year warranty. The quoted photo is of a totally different install with a hard piped system.
Thanks Brandon
The Eberspaecher install that @AJCConversions completed back in early 2019 works as well now as it did then.
That's 3.5 years past any warranty end date.
Sort of proves (to me at least) it was carried out professionally & correct.
That's 3.5 years past any warranty end date.
Sort of proves (to me at least) it was carried out professionally & correct.
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