Internal lighting switch relocation

SteveTA

Member
Good morning all. I am due to be having kombi seats installed in my 2018 T6 next week. In the NS c-pillar panel, the previous owner has installed an on/off dimmer switch for the ceiling spot-lights - nice job but switch needs relocating as will be in way of belt installation. I have the replacement panel and belt guide ready and know where I want to relocate the switch to. My question is do I need to remove a fuse before I remove the switch and isolate the wires(using terminal blocks?) - if yes, where will the fuse be. I'm not overly bothered about ceiling lights not working whilst isolated pending switch relocation but if fuse removal is necessary, unsure if that affects any other electrical items in the van - would just appreciate some guidance/reassurance before going at it all gung-ho. I have had a look at other similar threads on here but couldn't find anything specific to my situation. Thanks, Steve
 
Depends on whether the lights work off a leisure battery or main loom. If leisure then there should be a fusebox near the battery, otherwise it'll be in one of the main fuse boxes ...

Be fine to just remove the switch if you don't let the wires touch each other. Well that's what I'd do anyway 😁
 
Thanks for your response. No leisure battery, just main one and rather than remove an incorrect fuse, I bit the bullet and removed the battery terminals. I have managed to remove and relocate the spot light switch, re-wiring as was, replacing the 'wire nut/cones with a Wego 3-way compact lever connector. All connected as specified and fitted back into panel in new position. Re-connected battery terminals in correct order and fired her up...started, clock needs a reset(expected) but internal lights in rear and courtesy light unit by rear-view now not working. Warning light (Yellow radiant with ! in centre) now showing on dash - apparently, 'vehicle lighting partially or completely failed' according to handbook. Very puzzled to say the least....would disconnection of battery (done correctly) maybe cause a surge or whatever and take out either a fuse or anything else?
Pics attached of what I have done.......any comments appreciated.

IMG_20250624_152256.webp

IMG_20250624_152300.webp

IMG_20250624_152307.webp
 
I'd have to assume it's blown a fuse somewhere, probably nothing to do with you disconnecting the battery ... Any pictures of the original wirenut connections?
 
I'd have to assume it's blown a fuse somewhere, probably nothing to do with you disconnecting the battery ... Any pictures of the original wirenut connections?
No pictures I'm afraid, just standard orange conical connectors, ends twisted together and then twisted into each cone. Working fine before removal. I removed the cones, re-made the wire ends, twisted together, cut to prescribed 11mm of exposed cable for the Wego connector and clipped each in. Paranoia made me write down the colour pairings for each, duly followed, re-fitted switch in panel and re-connected the battery in the correct manner. My brake lights work, reversing light works, rear fog light works, indictaors work but not rear side lights, night lights or cab courtesy light - all front lights are ok. Have rechecked behind the panel to check I haven't disturbed anything else....nothing else in there. I have not had to put any pressure on the existing leads to pull through to switch area so puzzled I am. I'm legal for day driving so after I have had my seats fitted tomorrow and Friday, will have another check of the connection block before wholesale change of rear bulbs....failing that, Auto-Electrician I think as I am to Auto-Electrics what Donald Trump is to hairstyles!. Thanks for your comments.
 
Wago connector are common connectors so you have effectively connected al the wires together If one of the wires was an earth you have created a short and hopefully just blown a fuse. You need a separate wago for each connection.
 
Wago connector are common connectors so you have effectively connected al the wires together If one of the wires was an earth you have created a short and hopefully just blown a fuse. You need a separate wago for each connection.

Was wondering about that ... I use the little two lever inline ones so that can't happen.
 
So the 3 port connector doesn't isolate each strand from each other then?...will get some single port ones, try again and get fuse changed as it sounds like that will be needed too. Given all of this, if the fuse has blown(hopefully that's all), would you expect to see the internal courtesy light, rear spots and tail lights on the same fuse or is it likely that the circuit has been 'adopted' for the rear spotlight supply(LED). I appreciate your comments, many thanks, Steve
 
Wagos are wire connectors so if you want to connect 2 wires together you need a 2 way/port wago and put 1 wire in each slot. Part of the reason wago connectors are so reliable is because each wire is clamped separately- not twisted together. All the slots in a wago are connected together.
 
Yeah it's not at all obvious they all connect together in the three port one, even looking at the Wago website.

I'd be surprised if the tail lights were on the same fuse, but wouldn't put it past 'em!
 
As the light has been retrofitted it would depend on what the electrician did but I would assume everything that now doesn’t work was on that circuit!!
 
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