Questions On Lithium Batteries

Lol..... oh yeh.

That's the only refence I've seen... very strange.

Parent company maybe?

A bit more digging required.


I cant see that stenciled on any other pictures on a google search..... the internals are totally different, as is the bms... plus no app etc. So they definitely different companies and products.

Must be a link somewhere.

Screenshot_20190917-221955_Chrome.jpg

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How long have you had your superB?

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I'm tempted to go with this battery

Screenshot_20190918-075523_Gallery.jpg

Or this one

Screenshot_20190918-000555_Chrome.jpg
The Blurb says it can be charged with conventional chargers so does that mean I don't need a DC to DC charger? I presume I will and that it should be b 1/3 C so rated at 30A (thanks salty spuds for that info).
 
Would a DC DC charger, for example my Ablemail 12 12 30 be suitable if it's set on an AGM battery charging profile or would it need reprogrammed specifically for lithium.
 
Would a DC DC charger, for example my Ablemail 12 12 30 be suitable if it's set on an AGM battery charging profile or would it need reprogrammed specifically for lithium.
Depends on the battery. Most lithium batteries don’t need the “absorption” phase of charging, they go straight from Bulk to maintenance. It’s better if you can find a charger that has user programmable profiles. Then you can input your specific battery profile.
 
Thanks @Salty Spuds . When my current AGM goes south I may consider lithium due to planned long term ownership of my van. I think the Ablemail can be set up specifically for lithium, but may need sent back to the manufacture to be reconfigured. Just wondered if the current AGM profile would be bad for a lithium battery.
 
Thanks @Salty Spuds . When my current AGM goes south I may consider lithium due to planned long term ownership of my van. I think the Ablemail can be set up specifically for lithium, but may need sent back to the manufacture to be reconfigured. Just wondered if the current AGM profile would be bad for a lithium battery.
The current profile is suitable for the TN Power batteries.
 

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Thanks @travelvolts . Its suddenly starting to look very appealing. Do you happen to know if the battery in built protection will prevent it from being charged if the temperature drops to zero degrees. The blurb mentions over temperature protection but not low temp.
 
Thanks @travelvolts . Its suddenly starting to look very appealing. Do you happen to know if the battery in built protection will prevent it from being charged if the temperature drops to zero degrees. The blurb mentions over temperature protection but not low temp.
No . . . The TN needs external low volt protection the same as most Lifepo4 batterys (could just be a manual shut off switch, switch off when its cold and switch back on when it warms up a bit)

But if your forgetfull like me you might need a installed option . . . .

These lithium's charge FAST and suck in all the current they can get. . . . . currently charging a 138Ah Vallence with 2x 15A chargers in parallel !!!! and its taking the lot! its drawing 30Amps but could take 50A or 70A if it was available.

so im cautious that in future when its cold that the battery will want to draw 50+ Amps from the DC-DC and may damage the battery if the cell temps are below 0,1,2,3,4,5 deg C.


Some of the more expensive Lifepo4 batteries have internal heaters to extend the temp range . . . . . but these are £1500 and up each.

another option that I've seen is to use a 12v heatpad and thermostat - but that just seems to be a waist of energy to me . . . . . to waste energy to keep the bayttery temp above 0degC when its not beinbg used . . . ie all night.

i think it makes more sense to fit a low temp cut off that disconnects the charging current.


I've gone with the victron solution. . . . . a main 100A LBD for the loads . . . . and a second 60A LBD on the charge source (50A dc-dc) that will be switched on/off via the temp control on the BMV battery monitor. . . . . . . so the main 100A LBD will shutoff if the voltage drops to 11.5v and the 60A LBD will be temp controlled to shutoff below 4degC.

another option I've seen is just a SCR (relay) on the supply/charge side that is switched via a basic 12v temperature circuit/thermostat . . . . cheap and simple (but havent seen this in reality yet)
 
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I’m running the standard VW Aux battery / factory fit charge system. It’s got a Varta 75amh fitted.

To be honest, for what I’m running (night heater, internal lights & few LEDs) it works perfect.. but occasionally off grid for a few days, battery gets some stick… I’d like to upgrade, and wondering whether I can direct replace with lithium and it will charge ok? (2017 Highline) or whether upgrading to a DC-DC independent charger is essential. Anyone had a similar experience?

cheers
 
I’m running the standard VW Aux battery / factory fit charge system. It’s got a Varta 75amh fitted.

To be honest, for what I’m running (night heater, internal lights & few LEDs) it works perfect.. but occasionally off grid for a few days, battery gets some stick… I’d like to upgrade, and wondering whether I can direct replace with lithium and it will charge ok? (2017 Highline) or whether upgrading to a DC-DC independent charger is essential. Anyone had a similar experience?

cheers

You can’t stick a lithium in with the factory relay I’m afraid, you’d need a DC-DC. You could stick a bigger AGM in but even then you’d likely need a DC-DC to charge it properly as connecting different sizes of AGM together via the factory relay might have some odd effects with respect to charging.
 
Cheers for the feedback @t0mb0 - just been reading a few threads you’ve been active in on this which was helpful.

Will plan the swap with a DC - DC charger at same time. Wife’s going to string me up at this rate
 
Cheers for the feedback @t0mb0 - just been reading a few threads you’ve been active in on this which was helpful.

Will plan the swap with a DC - DC charger at same time. Wife’s going to string me up at this rate

You could stick the DC-DC in first and then see how you get on. It should give your existing battery an extra 20% or so as the factory relay will only charge to 80% whilst the DC-DC will fill it up.
 
@sups

as @t0mb0 mentioned you need a DC-DC charger for different chemistry's.


also a good shout to try the DC-DC first . . . . then look at a battery upgrade.




more info here:










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