My T6 Audio Upgrade

More progress today:

All the new audio cables now installed - trying to get it all as neat as possible.
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Floor back in:
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Passenger seat base in after a dusting of satin black acrylic, and sub unit installation. Re-located the junction bracket to the front of the seat base. Lots of closed cell foam applied to avoid any rattles:
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Getting there....
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And I also spent quite a lot of time carefully stripping out the headunit wiring mess. Got back to this:
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Today's progress.

Installation of the sub enclosure is complicated on my van by the fact that I have Sportscraft swivels, which have strengthening bars on their underside:

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So I found that I could not use the finishing piece that Absolut5 supplies with their enclosure. Now this is actually intended to be pressed on by the seats, hence trapping the sub enclosure in place and stopping it from moving. So it's both a cosmetic finishing piece and part of the enclosure fixing.

A bit of measuring and thinking and I decided to use some MDF triangles:

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And also some closed cell insulation foam, as shown here:

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This traps the sub enclosure quite nicely.

Next I reinstalled the driver's seat base, along with the leisure battery. I couldn't mount the amplifier in the way that Absolut5 do as I have a fuse box in the way, and I didn't want to relocate this. So I made up an amplifier support from aluminium sheet. It won't win any beauty contests but it is nice and secure.

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Gets me to here:

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Nice work, but wont having a metal plate (ie the swivel) just above the sub affect the sound?

The swivel doesn't 'seal' the seat base. It may affect the sound but low frequencies are non-directional and it's quite common for subs to mounted in car boots away from the listening area.
 
The sub enclosure can Be used with the bottom nut version of the Sportscraft plates, but not so easy with the top nut version...

we mount the amp like in most cases-

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The swivel doesn't 'seal' the seat base. It may affect the sound but low frequencies are non-directional and it's quite common for subs to mounted in car boots away from the listening area.
I realise that but I was thinking more of reflections and interference (constructive and destructive).
 
Amp connected up:

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Leisure electrics all back in and connected up:

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Headunit in after a very careful sort through of the dash wiring:
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As part of this work I also wanted to install a gloss black OE instrument surround, the upgraded centre vents and Van-X glovebox.

Modifying the new instrument surround, which needs a trim at the lower right corner:

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Instrument surround and centre vent panel in - my deliberate mistake here is that the centre panel should be installed LAST!

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TOP TIP - when installing the headunit, before you fit the centre vent trim make sure that the headunit will open correctly. Mine did not and needed a slight adjustment of the headunit facia plate.

Finished installation:
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Thought I'd start a thread on the audio upgrade I'm about to do.

Starting point is:
Pioneer AVIC-F980DAB headunit
Blam amplifier
Blam 200RS door loudspeakers.
Rear speakers of indeterminate origin fitted by Vanworx.

Moving to:

Focal ES100K component speakers to replace the unknown rear units.

I have ordered from Absolut5:
Kenwood DNX9190DABS headunit
Absolut5 'Signature' audio comprising:
JL Audio sub
Hertz Mille Pro door component speakers
JL Audio XD500/3v2 amplifier

The rear speakers will be driven from the head unit and everything else from the JL Audio amp.

I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on sound quality of the blams Vs the Hertz Millie pro's.
Obviously they're better and now amped, but were the blams just not up to scratch?

Good thread btw.
 
I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on sound quality of the blams Vs the Hertz Millie pro's.
Obviously they're better and now amped, but were the blams just not up to scratch?

Good thread btw.

The Blams were a big step up from the standard set up.
What I have now though is on a whole different level - but then so is the cost ;)
 
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