multiple USB control panels needed?

[winstonedd]

i am about to spend on electrics now that my units and Titan Bed is on order.

I already have a Renogy DCC50s and its monitoring bluetooth but i have a query in regards to the USB control panel.

i have worked out that i will likely require 11 different 12v gangs for the following:

*Kitchen Shelf LED Strip
*Locker LED Strip
*passenger side roof Lights (above door)
*recessed cubby hole LED strip
*flexiible roof reading light (with 2 x USB sockets)
*future pop top underside LED project
*Future Poptop ambient (topside) LED Project
*Future Awning cassette LED strip
*12v TV
*12v Fridge
*Waterpump

i can only find mostly 5 gang 12v control panels and the odd 8 gang. Do you think some of these 12v in my list above can be combined or should i look at getting an additional 12v control panel
(2 x 6 gang)

many thanks for your help again

 

[T6Jay]

You can get your own customised fascia made if you like. I got some ply from these guys once and they were making them;

https://www.convertavan.shop/product-page/basic-switch-panel

Also google found this;

Custom Panels

Campervan Motorhome Caravan Boat Horse Box Switch Panels. 12V and 240V

www.switchpanel.co.uk

I guess there will be dozens more.........

Personally, I put all my light switches on the light itself, and have no switch for the fridge. Everything is fused from two seperate 6 way fuseblocks, that way the cable runs (and volt drops) are kept small.

 

[R300JSG]

I had this problem with my requirements in the T4. I made one from a piece of A5 perspex and 20mm drill bit!
This will be used in the T6 build too.

 

[Salty Spuds]

i am about to spend on electrics now that my units and Titan Bed is on order.

I already have a Renogy DCC50s and its monitoring bluetooth but i have a query in regards to the USB control panel.

i have worked out that i will likely require 11 different 12v gangs for the following:

*Kitchen Shelf LED Strip
*Locker LED Strip
*passenger side roof Lights (above door)
*recessed cubby hole LED strip
*flexiible roof reading light (with 2 x USB sockets)
*future pop top underside LED project
*Future Poptop ambient (topside) LED Project
*Future Awning cassette LED strip
*12v TV
*12v Fridge
*Waterpump

i can only find mostly 5 gang 12v control panels and the odd 8 gang. Do you think some of these 12v in my list above can be combined or should i look at getting an additional 12v control panel
(2 x 6 gang)

many thanks for your help again

Put the switches near the lights. Nothing worse than being in bed, and the light switch is at the other end of the van.

 

[R300JSG]

Put the switches near the lights. Nothing worse than being in bed, and the light switch is at the other end of the van.

Make sure they're remote controlled

 

[winstonedd]

Make sure they're remote controlled

Can you point me to some to replace the ones that come with the kitchen unit?

 

[drinfinity]

I put switches where they are most convenient to use, so avoiding a central panel. Fridge is direct to battery, water pump is fed by a relay controlled from the switch integral to the tap. USB ports also have an integrated switch on them, so no parasitic drain or led when not required. Roof flexi light has its own switch.

 

[CJW]

I fitted this. Works really well.

10P Membrane Touch Control Panel | Marine Toggle Switch Panels, Fuses, Circuit Breakers Manufacturer | YIS Marine

This popular membrane panel series just got even better! With the incorporation of new digital IC, these panels are now more reliable, cheaper and with some more advanced features like reduced standby current, compact micro-USB cable connection, momentary button programmable for any button. You...

www.yismarine.com

 

[CJW]

I fitted this. Works really well.

10P Membrane Touch Control Panel | Marine Toggle Switch Panels, Fuses, Circuit Breakers Manufacturer | YIS Marine

This popular membrane panel series just got even better! With the incorporation of new digital IC, these panels are now more reliable, cheaper and with some more advanced features like reduced standby current, compact micro-USB cable connection, momentary button programmable for any button. You...

www.yismarine.com

This is all that is visible - the panel extreme left. To the right are the Renogy monitor and battery monitor.

 

[winstonedd]

This is all that is visible - the panel extreme left. To the right are the Renogy monitor and battery monitor.

View attachment 195359

I did notice this unit online but some reviews showed panels becoming unresponsive within a year and I didn’t like that I couldn’t monitor the battery or put in the cigarette style IsB plug when required.

I love the neatness of it though!

 

[Salty Spuds]

I did notice this unit online but some reviews showed panels becoming unresponsive within a year and I didn’t like that I couldn’t monitor the battery or put in the cigarette style IsB plug when required.

I love the neatness of it though!

One day you’ll be on a site, it’ll be peeing down with rain or baking hot, and the heater/fridge/lights/pump will stop working. You’ll be trying to fault find with a rats nest of wiring/switches/fuses/ etc. The missus will be getting tetchy because she’s cold/thirsty/wanting to watch Eastenders. You’ll have forgotten where all the bits are & what does what. The fancy panel that looked cool 18months ago, will now be obsolete & irreplaceable. Where do you start?
I’m a retired engineer & I love a fancy setup as much as the next geek, but if experience has taught me one thing when it comes to vans & boats, it’s KISS.
Just my two penneth.

 

[winstonedd]

I put switches where they are most convenient to use, so avoiding a central panel. Fridge is direct to battery, water pump is fed by a relay controlled from the switch integral to the tap. USB ports also have an integrated switch on them, so no parasitic drain or led when not required. Roof flexi light has its own switch.

Ahh that’s brilliant. So all my current and future light projects can come from the fuse blocks and then I can leave things like Tv, pump etc in the usb control panel? I’m assuming the 2 separate fuse blocks are connected straight to the leisure battery? (Well not directly directly)

 

[winstonedd]

One day you’ll be on a site, it’ll be peeing down with rain or baking hot, and the heater/fridge/lights/pump will stop working. You’ll be trying to fault find with a rats nest of wiring/switches/fuses/ etc. The missus will be getting tetchy because she’s cold/thirsty/wanting to watch Eastenders. You’ll have forgotten where all the bits are & what does what. The fancy panel that looked cool 18months ago, will now be obsolete & irreplaceable. Where do you start?
I’m a retired engineer & I love a fancy setup as much as the next geek, but if experience has taught me one thing when it comes to vans & boats, it’s KISS.
Just my two penneth.

this makes sense. im not sure if the light strips that come with EVO design furniture have buttons of their own. all the kits i can see online come with the panel. the only kit i can find from wired campers has a big RCD box. can you recommend a kit that would work with my renogy DC to DC kit and provide me 12v and 240v and ensure i have enough to power 12 x 12v gangs?

 

[winstonedd]

You can get your own customised fascia made if you like. I got some ply from these guys once and they were making them;

https://www.convertavan.shop/product-page/basic-switch-panel

Also google found this;

Custom Panels

Campervan Motorhome Caravan Boat Horse Box Switch Panels. 12V and 240V

www.switchpanel.co.uk

I guess there will be dozens more.........

Personally, I put all my light switches on the light itself, and have no switch for the fridge. Everything is fused from two seperate 6 way fuseblocks, that way the cable runs (and volt drops) are kept small.

can you show me an example of the switches by your lights and where you have located them? also can you show me the 6 way fuse blocks you have? many thanks

 

[Salty Spuds]

this makes sense. im not sure if the light strips that come with EVO design furniture have buttons of their own. all the kits i can see online come with the panel. the only kit i can find from wired campers has a big RCD box. can you recommend a kit that would work with my renogy DC to DC kit and provide me 12v and 240v and ensure i have enough to power 12 x 12v gangs?

You’re getting mixed up with the 12V leisure side & the 240v side. You might want to read through some of the @Dellmassive “how to”threads. Most of the info you’re seeking is already available on the forum.

 

[winstonedd]

You’re getting mixed up with the 12V leisure side & the 240v side. You might want to read through some of the @Dellmassive “how to”threads. Most of the info you’re seeking is already available on the forum.

Will give it a look

 

[drinfinity]

Ahh that’s brilliant. So all my current and future light projects can come from the fuse blocks and then I can leave things like Tv, pump etc in the usb control panel? I’m assuming the 2 separate fuse blocks are connected straight to the leisure battery? (Well not directly directly)

Yes. I have a fuse box under the front seat which supplies stuff near the front of the van. From that there are two big wires going back on each side. One to a rear fusebox by left wheelarch, and another under the sink. This means I can add other elements without having a long pile of wires threaded through from the front.

Earth wires go to the nearest body earth point, which halves the wiring length/voltage drop.

 

[T6Jay]

can you show me an example of the switches by your lights and where you have located them? also can you show me the 6 way fuse blocks you have? many thanks

My lights are home made. I mean I bought LED strip and channel, and soldered in my own pushbutton controls, all wired back to an arduino. I'm not suggesting you do that, it's not trivial DIY but it does let me do things like, turn ALL the lights on/off with long press of the pushbutton on ANY light, dimming, timed lights etc. More info here;

Interior lights with touch screen and 3 way control. ( Arduino and Nextion)

Helloooo Long time no see ;) I was getting fed up not being able being able to dim or control my lighting (and a few other bits) from more than one location. Ended up adding a screen and an Arduino to the mix. Hoping to tie in with other Arduino fans and see what else we can control. I can do...

www.t6forum.com

I'd look for lights with built in switches or touch controls if you want to keep it simple.

I do have a 'central' panel like this;



This will isolate all the lights (& arduino), usb sockets (so no parasitic drain), pump, and the timer pusbutton turns on the cupboard lights for 1 minute. I've since added a pushbutton to lock the van, but still need to 3D print another facia.

And my fuse boxes are these type;



One under the driver seat (Fridge, Planar Heater, 12V socket, LPG solenoid) and one behind the 'central' control panel (lights, pump, usb sockets, 12V socket)

 

[CJW]

One day you’ll be on a site, it’ll be peeing down with rain or baking hot, and the heater/fridge/lights/pump will stop working. You’ll be trying to fault find with a rats nest of wiring/switches/fuses/ etc. The missus will be getting tetchy because she’s cold/thirsty/wanting to watch Eastenders. You’ll have forgotten where all the bits are & what does what. The fancy panel that looked cool 18months ago, will now be obsolete & irreplaceable. Where do you start?
I’m a retired engineer & I love a fancy setup as much as the next geek, but if experience has taught me one thing when it comes to vans & boats, it’s KISS.
Just my two penneth.

Can’t be doing with rat’s nests