ADVICE: Clayton Powered 12v Circuits

[T6ChrisO]

Thought I'd start a thread as this may help others who go down the Clayton Power route and like me, have no idea on electrical wiring. @roadtripper has helped no end so far in regards to EHU whilst using a Clayton and has just been super helpful in general (he deserves a medal). But lets focus on the 12v side for now......

I'm looking for advice/help on how to make a Clayton LPS system, power the vans camper system.

What I have:
Clayton LPSII 1500W
Fuse Block with negative busbar - Fuseboard
Control Panel - Panel

What I'm powering:
Typical 50L Fridge (Dometic CRX50 etc)
Spotlights (all ready in with wiring ready to connect into 'x')
Water Pump
USB Port on Control Panel linked above
1x 230v socket (was hoping to some how link this to the socket on the front of the clayton via some sort of fly lead??)

So basically thats what I have but I now have no idea on where to wire to/from and quite importantly, in what size cable?

Nothing in life is free and I'm more than happy to pay for someones time who might sketch up a diagram etc. Happy to donate to a pot of choice

I do hope this comes in handy for others in case more people in the future may head down this route.

 

[roadtripper]

1x 230v socket (was hoping to some how link this to the socket on the front of the clayton via some sort of fly lead??

No, you'll link any fixed 230v wiring in the van to the Powercon output, that's what they are for

 

[T6ChrisO]

No, you'll link any fixed wiring in the van to the Powercon output, that's what they are for

See, this is why I’m useless

 

[roadtripper]

12v side you'll need a suitably sized cable for +12v and ground to connect your fusebox positive and negative bus bars to the DC output as per the Clayton diagram. Make them long enough you can slide the Clayton in and out if you need to, but keep them as short as practical.

That should have a master fuse appropriate for the load you are going to put on it - add up the worst case load and add a bit, fuse to that and ideally rate the cable a bit higher.

 

[roadtripper]

I'm not a fan of the super cheap panels as I'm suspicious about cable/fuse/switch rating.

Personally I'd ditch the wiring harness that comes with it (mostly) and then wire from your fusebox through one switch to each load.

For your fridge they are sensitive to voltage drop so I'd wire that directly to one of the ways in your fuse box.

I'd then wire your lights from another way from the fuse box through a switch.

I'd wire the 12v socket direct to one of the ways on the fusebox.

I'd wire the USB/Voltmeter through one of the switches as you want that off when idle (no point running down the Clayton with it on all the time) - if close to the fusebox I'd run that off it's own way (you have 6) but if not you could share a supply with the 12v socket.

I'd wire the pump from one of the ways on the fuse board through a switch.

That would leave you with one switch spare and 1 or 2 spare ways in the fusebox for expansion.