Leaking Kombi Windows? How-to guide to resolve.

[ZipcodeUK]

Update:
I removed both opening windows yesterday from my twin sliders to inspect why or from where I was getting leaks.

My issue was exactly the same as the video link posted previously where the gutters are working, but water was leaking between the glass and the plastic gutter mouldings and then seeping between the plastic parts and dripping into the van.
To start with, the lower gutter / drain deflectors seemed well position and showed no signs of being lose or needing re-sealing. They did however show signs or where water has been saturating the surrounding areas easily spotted by the discoloured marks.

So I dried everything and put a tiny bead of black stixall silicone into the channel to seal the tiny gap between the glass and the plastic channel.
Came out this morning and retested and happy to say, So Far So Good. I’m not getting any dripping underneath and the water is exiting via the drainage slots well.
I’ll refit the windows later and do a hose test..... watch this space (fingers crossed)

 

[ZipcodeUK]

Well, after hosing my windows and specifically targeting the gap where the seal is, I had zero water come through.
move then left it outside the past 24hrs and it’s been raining for most of that time, just inspected the inside and once again, I have zero drips, drips or signs of any moisture under the windows or inside the doors.
I’m now considering this as a job completed successfully.
I’m so happy with the results that even if VW offered to replace them, I’d rather do this fix again as even new 6.1 windows are leaking in the same way.

 

[david173]

Well, after hosing my windows and specifically targeting the gap where the seal is, I had zero water come through.
move then left it outside the past 24hrs and it’s been raining for most of that time, just inspected the inside and once again, I have zero drips, drips or signs of any moisture under the windows or inside the doors.
I’m now considering this as a job completed successfully.
I’m so happy with the results that even if VW offered to replace them, I’d rather do this fix again as even new 6.1 windows are leaking in the same way.

Nice one glad you hopefully sorted it. I have now become OCD at checking mine when it rains!

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Not a trace of moisture from mine since my "cure".

 

[Andysmee]

This thread is great, but after throwing a bucket of water at the sliding window on my van, and discovering that water will readily bounce back at you, I have given up on my OEM slider (also because, after clearing the drip holes, it's clear that any water filling the outer channel will simply flow downhill into the inner channel and drip out onto the interior trim. The window sill gradient means that water naturally flows into the interior, not out to the exterior, so I'm going to move on to aftermarket windows. Good luck to anyone persisting!)

 

[saintclarkey1]

Just an update on my issue. Got it back from the dealer today, they weren't happy with the seal itself and the drainage channel was clearly damaged as the inner channel was leaking back into the van. Based on this and with no questions asked they put two new sliders in (not the whole window just the sliding part) under warranty. I've had the syringe out since I've been home and happy to report I'm leak free (for now). Yeh I probably could have stuffed some sikaflex in there but I might as well get some value from the Warranty....they also picked up on a small Oil leak and fixed that proactively so can't complain. Only problem is they put a non tinted slider in so it looks a bit odd (to be fair I think it was an aftermarket tint) but they've kindly agreed to rectify that for me as well free of charge.

 

[BernieM99]

Getting both my sliding windows replaced this week (and both door handles as driver door won’t open!) not sure what’s happened to VW build quality if that’s doesn’t work I’ll try the sealant option.

 

[saintclarkey1]

Getting both my sliding windows replaced this week (and both door handles as driver door won’t open!) not sure what’s happened to VW build quality if that’s doesn’t work I’ll try the sealant option.

Yep, speak to a lot of converters and they cut them straight out and fit aftermarket ones in.

 

[Andysmee]

I cleared out the drain holes completely and still this is after 2 hours of middling rain. Can't wait to replace them with aftermarket

 

[Ozi]

When I was specing my conversion, I asked the converters to fit VW openers as I really liked the look of the flush windows when closed......”no, no, no“ was the response. “They always leak” they told me. And since joining this forum, I now know why they had such a strong view and steered me away.

Glad they talked me out of them !

 

[saintclarkey1]

2 months in and my VW replaced windows (under warranty) have leaked again in all this rain. Really frustrating as I've just fitted my carpeted vanshades which are just trapping all the leaking water behind them . Really think aftermarket is the way to go as I've never had a problem with them on previous vans. Going to try my luck with VW to get them to fund this.... (wish me luck).

 

[rod_vw]

Don't let them change just the slider, insist on replacement of the complete unit. I won't say it will work but it's the best chance you'll have.

 

[saintclarkey1]

Yep, think your right. They changed the sliders last time but I don't believe that's where the leak is coming from

 

[saintclarkey1]

Right, so dealer only wants to replace the sliding element again , blaming a potential faulty batch which is laughable. So I'm going to make them do that as they wouldn't fund aftermarket ones. Meant to be going away in it next week and their lead times are ridiculous, also I have to take my vanshades out each time as they won't do the job with them in place (Not ideal to unscrew them and screw them back in time and time again).

So based on this I'm likely to go aftermarket. My only question is would they look odd alongside the factory rears which have been tinted. As you can see from the pics there's a light line around where the factory non tinted glass meets the blacked glass and obviously aftermarkets don't have this. Would like to avoid replacing all four windows

 

[Scarfaz1]

Right, so dealer only wants to replace the sliding element again , blaming a potential faulty batch which is laughable. So I'm going to make them do that as they wouldn't fund aftermarket ones. Meant to be going away in it next week and their lead times are ridiculous, also I have to take my vanshades out each time as they won't do the job with them in place (Not ideal to unscrew them and screw them back in time and time again).

So based on this I'm likely to go aftermarket. My only question is would they look odd alongside the factory rears which have been tinted. As you can see from the pics there's a light line around where the factory non tinted glass meets the blacked glass and obviously aftermarkets don't have this. Would like to avoid replacing all four windows View attachment 119964

Having realised why the door card is slightly warped I checked out this thread! From the crap under the window and channel (hardly ever open them) I'm guessing my problem is simply blocked drain holes. Whilst plucking up courage to remove and clean I plugged in the compressor and gave the channel and drain holes a blast, can clearly feel air coming through now. Not sure yet if it's fixed and if so for how long but was an easy way if it does.

 

[DXX]

I’m on the 12th attempt to seal the detached plastic flap under the forward round drain. Just be aware that silicone of any kind bonds to a surface and will prevent adhesive from sticking effectively.
Greasing window seals with silicone grease / lubricant needs to be done carefully AFTER the glueing is done.

 

[saintclarkey1]

Having realised why the door card is slightly warped I checked out this thread! From the crap under the window and channel (hardly ever open them) I'm guessing my problem is simply blocked drain holes. Whilst plucking up courage to remove and clean I plugged in the compressor and gave the channel and drain holes a blast, can clearly feel air coming through now. Not sure yet if it's fixed and if so for how long but was an easy way if it does.

My new sliders are in and for once not leaking . Had an in-depth conversation with the engineer on this who said according to the owners manual you should unblock the drainage channel every two months...(I haven't checked this but sounds bonkers)

 

[DXX]

My new sliders are in and for once not leaking . Had an in-depth conversation with the engineer on this who said according to the owners manual you should unblock the drainage channel every two months...(I haven't checked this but sounds bonkers)

Depends what you’ve been doing, if you’ve been parked on the beach in Portugal with a 30Kn wind and the van’s full of sand, probably give up and do it when you leave.
If it’s been parked up in a sheltered area / garaged then obviously not.
It’s a 2 minute job to flush through with window cleaner.

 

[Tommy]

Hi all

My kombi windows are both leaking in. I have noticed water on the foot steps numerous times, not a lot and the carpet lining always felt dry to the touch so just put it down to doors being opened and dripping from door seals. However quite windy and driving rain over the weekend and went to clear the van out prior to taking it for some detailing and the door steps were well wet. I could also actually see daylight at the bottom rear door when closed so not sure if this is the issue (the picture attached showing water on the window cill was the only side showing water in that position and not sure if that happened as door was being opened as channel bit was bone dry)

Question I'm asking myself is should I take it in to garage or just bit the bullet and go for aftermarket window as it seems like it can be ongoing issues during the life cycle of your ownership and with van just been insulated, carpeted on doors/floor would hate the idea of this being ruined over time. Any idea what would be options and cost implications

Thanks in advance

 

[david173]

Hi all

My kombi windows are both leaking in. I have noticed water on the foot steps numerous times, not a lot and the carpet lining always felt dry to the touch so just put it down to doors being opened and dripping from door seals. However quite windy and driving rain over the weekend and went to clear the van out prior to taking it for some detailing and the door steps were well wet. I could also actually see daylight at the bottom rear door when closed so not sure if this is the issue (the picture attached showing water on the window cill was the only side showing water in that position and not sure if that happened as door was being opened as channel bit was bone dry)

Question I'm asking myself is should I take it in to garage or just bit the bullet and go for aftermarket window as it seems like it can be ongoing issues during the life cycle of your ownership and with van just been insulated, carpeted on doors/floor would hate the idea of this being ruined over time. Any idea what would be options and cost implications

Thanks in advance

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highly frustrating and I feel your pain. I would hazard a guess at the windows leaking. water on the step was a tell tale sign I had. I ended up going to check the van when raining but entering through the cab rather than open the sliding door to rule out any drips when opening.

Have you had a go at fixing them yourself first?
I was all set to have mine replaced with aftermarket but glad I managed to fix them. It really isn't as daunting task as it looks taking them apart.
It was looking around £500 to replace them (1 flush slider 1 fixed all installed by another company). Loads of information above. Another reason to fix and keep the OEM is that they look the best with flush sliders, in my opinion.

Regarding longevity, the main reason, based on my own experience and extensive forum research, is that the windows leak for two reasons 1) the drain holes are blocked with sealant when the window was installed (unbelievable I know) and 2) the glue on the little plastic tab under the drain hole on the inner runner is poor/ debonds causing a leak at this point. When you have sorted both of these items I don't see (fingers crossed) it being a long term problem. I keep a radio key in my glove box and periodically poke it down the drain holes to ensure they are clear, its a 2 second job and you don't need to remove the glass to do so.

Hope that is some help. for the money its got to be worth a shot having a go! worse case you get them replaced anyway...!