Is this RCD/MCB consumer unit suitable? And wiring Help please.

[RogueOne]

Vw t6.1, fitting a rear stealth flap and surface mounted 240v inlet.
This will be wired into the consumer unit (Pictured below) with 25A 30mA RCD with a 'test ' function and 2X 10A MCB
I then want to wire in from this two double 240v sockets with UsB ports. One socket will be on the rhs of the camper, the other will be on the left hand side.
Will be doing this myself So how is best to wire all this up, and what about earthing it all?
Images below for reference.

One thing that has concerned me is on A FB group one poster said this:
'This will work but not compliant nor best practice. You really need double pole MCB’s at least.
And YES everything MUST be earthed to the chassis. At 1 single point."

As far as I was aware, It has a Double pole RCD which acts as the main isolation and provides the main shock protection the MCBs are there to protect the cables to the sockets from overload/short circuit and they don't need to switch neutral if the RCD already does that.

Am I missing something?

Images of all the parts I've ordered below.

Many thanks

Consumer Unit


Cables, from inlet and from Consumer Unit to double plug sockets:



Wired up to 2 of these:

​

Thanks for any help.

 

[Grim Reaper]

The FB poster got it partly right..
The double pole RCD will switch the neutral, but the issue with campsite electric supplies, particularly those on the continent, is the live and neutral can be crossed if the plug is inserted the wrong way round (2 pin plug can be inserted both ways).
This can result in the live being fed to the neutral pins on the sockets, bypassing the switch (if the sockets themselves are not double pole switched) and you can have a live fed appliance at all times even though you think it's switched off. Double pole MCB's won't keep you safe in this situation however, they will disconnect the live and neutral but only if they are used to turn the supply off rather than the switch on the socket outlet.
If you wire your van correctly, use a socket tester every time you connect up to a supply and carry a crossover lead so you can correct a crossed supply before it gets into your van electrics, that will sort all your potential issues out and single pole MCB's can be used as normal as they now disconnect the live every time.
Invest in one of these and carry it (and use it) in the van.
eBay Martindale Socket tester{GCLID}&adtype=pla&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9215262&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgijg6KQEoC10KZMUEjT5b-nvR

 

[Dellmassive]

Start here..

The Ultimate Guide To Campervan Wiring Regulations 2024 - Vandercamp Adventures

Unravel the mysteries of campervan wiring regulations! This straightforward guide simplifies the essentials to ensure your campervan wiring system is safe.

vandercampadventures.com

 

[Dellmassive]

Cable needs to be 2.5mm up., and should be in containment and fixed.

DOuble pole breakers are needed... Rcbo's are better.

Chassis must be pe earthed.

 

[RogueOne]

Cable needs to be 2.5mm up., and should be in containment and fixed.

DOuble pole breakers are needed... Rcbo's are better.

Chassis must be pe earthed.

Hey @Dellmassive

I have 2.5mm cable from the inlet to the Consumer unit then 1.5mm from the MCBs to the plug sockets. That ok?

Also, when you say "Chassis must be earthed" do you mean the 'Consumer unit needs to be earthed from the internal Earth bus bar to the Chassis"?

 

[RogueOne]

The FB poster got it partly right..
The double pole RCD will switch the neutral, but the issue with campsite electric supplies, particularly those on the continent, is the live and neutral can be crossed if the plug is inserted the wrong way round (2 pin plug can be inserted both ways).
This can result in the live being fed to the neutral pins on the sockets, bypassing the switch (if the sockets themselves are not double pole switched) and you can have a live fed appliance at all times even though you think it's switched off. Double pole MCB's won't keep you safe in this situation however, they will disconnect the live and neutral but only if they are used to turn the supply off rather than the switch on the socket outlet.
If you wire your van correctly, use a socket tester every time you connect up to a supply and carry a crossover lead so you can correct a crossed supply before it gets into your van electrics, that will sort all your potential issues out and single pole MCB's can be used as normal as they now disconnect the live every time.
Invest in one of these and carry it (and use it) in the van.
eBay Martindale Socket tester{GCLID}&adtype=pla&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9215262&gbraid=0AAAAADmMgijg6KQEoC10KZMUEjT5b-nvR

Thanks Grim Reaper. I took it for granted that a UK Campervan parts company 'The Van Build' would be selling the correctly regulated parts for a EHU. I will definitely be sending that back and going for one with the double pole MCB's

 

[Grim Reaper]

Personally I'm happy with single pole MCB's but would be checking polarity of the Live and Neutral while connected to the campsite supply, the Martindale tester doesn't have a buzzer on it so can be left in a socket for monitoring. All three lights lit means it's OK.

 

[Dellmassive]

Hey @Dellmassive

I have 2.5mm cable from the inlet to the Consumer unit then 1.5mm from the MCBs to the plug sockets. That ok?

Also, when you say "Chassis must be earthed" do you mean the 'Consumer unit needs to be earthed from the internal Earth bus bar to the Chassis"?

It needs to be 2.5mm2 minimum throughout, so change the 1.5mm over to 2.5mm.

Yes the vans bodywork needs to be connected to the CU earth bar with 4mm single earth cable. (Needs to be able to carry a full fault load current)

 

[Dellmassive]

It needs to be 2.5mm2 minimum throughout, so change the 1.5mm over to 2.5mm.

Yes the vans bodywork needs to be connected to the CU earth bar with 4mm single earth cable. (Needs to be able to carry a full fault load current)

Soz,,... The reg show 1.5mm min cable, 3core flex.

But I used 2.5mm through.

 

[Dellmassive]

Start here..

The Ultimate Guide To Campervan Wiring Regulations 2024 - Vandercamp Adventures

Unravel the mysteries of campervan wiring regulations! This straightforward guide simplifies the essentials to ensure your campervan wiring system is safe.

vandercampadventures.com

 

[RogueOne]

View attachment 315952View attachment 315953View attachment 315954View attachment 315955

Thanks @Dellmassive , I have found these three to make one up, all look ok?



Chint NL1-63 63A 30mA RCD

Chint MCB - NB1-63 Double pole. 1-63 amp Type C

 

[Dellmassive]

63A.?

Look for a 6/10/16A versions.

I used two double pole RCBOs. (1p +N switching)


......

Got them from Screwfix. With a box with lid.

 

[RogueOne]

Another Camper electrics company has told me this:

You will need to purchase 2 X 10A MCB as you need an MCB for each outlet and 3 module bus bar, if you connect two double sockets to 1 10A mcb it will not be compliant!

So much conflicting information out there.

They have recommended an 8 way Consumer unit with:


CHINT NL1-63 Type A Double Pole 63A 30mA RCD/RCCB

And two of these:

CHINT NB1-63 B10 Double Pole 10A MCB Miniature Circuit Breaker

 

[FWhite]

I cannot comment on UK wiring rules, that I don't know, and are often very different (I think stricter) than many EU ones.

But when it comes to safety I would NOT buy anything from Chinese Company like Chint.
I would go to a good brick and mortar HW store and buy a reputable European product such a Siemens, Schneider, ABB, Legrand ...
Same for 230V cables.

 

[doncarlyon]

Search 'Wylex' and you will find some info on bits available from screwfix.

 

[Alster]

I think if you’re still not sure after reading the links from @Dellmassive you probably should get a qualified electrician to do the work for you. There’s too much at stake with dodgy electrics.

 

[RogueOne]

I think if you’re still not sure after reading the links from @Dellmassive you probably should get a qualified electrician to do the work for you. There’s too much at stake with dodgy electrics.

I have no issues with wiring up, done it many times on previous Transporters but I know regulations change so I just want to make sure i'm up to date and compliant. PLus we will be travelling abroad so Double pole is important. I have now come to realise that the majority of the pre populated Campervan consumer units for sale are not what they seem and most are single pole MCBs!

 

[RogueOne]

Ok so, Pretty sure these are of decent quality and correct spec. Just want a second/third opinion before purchasing:

 

[Stay Frosty]

That 63A 30mA RCBO is going to be receiving power from a 16A supply so way oversize for over current protection and never likely to trip before the site power RCBO unless via an earth leakage fault.
When you started the thread with the kit shown you were ok, as often happens offered advice has dragged the subject all over the place and doubt has crept in, I'm waiting for someone to come in and quote the IEE regs for a TT installation complete with earth stake.
Going back to that 63A RCBO you would need a 16mm2 individual conductor size in your extension lead compared to the normal 2.5mm2 so go back to the original items.
Be aware that with a 25A 30mA RCBO on the incomer though there's every likelihood that the site 16A 30mA RCBO will most likely trip in an overcurrent fault ahead of your larger capacity of 25A, I use a 16A 30mA RCBO as the incomer and a 10A single pole MCB for our one twin skt.
I should point out I don't normally use an EHU though and our 230V comes from a 2kW inverter which is a whole other minefield.

 

[FWhite]

IMHO (again, I am not qualified for UK) , there is no way you need a 63A breaker inside a camper.
Consider that your entry plug is probably a blue 16A CE .
And that your cable is probably a 2.5 squares, good for 16A or little more.
Same for your distribution panel at the camping site and for your extension cable.