Insulating/sound proofing

T

Tiny

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Hi all
New member
I have had my T30 Kombi for just over a week now and I am looking forward to doing the insulating, sound proofing and carpeting the panels etc. After watching various videos and reading some articles, my biggest issue is the variation in people using a wide variety of different products. So my questions are to those who have already been there.
What is the best products to use for insulating : real wool, plastic wool, foam, spray foam (for area you can't reach)
What is the best product to use for sound proofing.
Panels! Ply or use the panels that are factory fitted and just carpet over them.

Thanks
 
Thanks Pauly I will have a look.
It's one of those jobs that I want to do once but do it right and not find out later not hat I should have done this or that.
 
@Tiny
My only issue with spray foam is the hassle of running cables in after or any retro items needed or wanted after all completed.. even simple things like addition speaker cables, lighting cables etc..
The only way I have seen ppl get around this is by threading/using 20mm ducting within hollows to run cables from front to back..

Much easier to pull insulation out and shove back in.. etc.
 
Yes I agree, I was thinking of doing the ducting idea. They are then in place if ever any upgrades are needed at a later date.
 
I have literally just finished mine today and here's my opinion.

Sound deadening - silent coat 2mm. This goes on first. Remove panelling and stick it to as much exterior bodywork as you can. Something I noticed. A lot of people go waaaay overboard with making sure everything lines up perfectly and that every single square millimetre is covered. Forget it! Don't be too anal. It makes little to no difference. Chuck it on and get on with something more fun.

Insulation - I used a combination of 25mm Celotex and loft insulation (its just what I had lying around) Stuff the insulation in the crevices and hard to reach places, and the celotex covers the larger areas. Bit of gaffa tape if needed hold in place. Panels back on. Down the pub for chucking out time.
 
Thanks for taking the time post a reply. I will be ordering my products this week and once this crappy weather has passed I'll be cracking on with it.

Cheers
 
Hi @Fish, for the benefit of those that don't or haven't used ducting before may I suggest threading a robust pull-cord through the ducting if a pull-wire is not included pre-mounted. Makes it much easier to pull a cable and replacement (for a second cable) pull-cord through, especially on longer runs that may include tightish curves or bends. :thumbsup::thumbsup::)
 
T6 Dave's Dad said:
Hi @Fish, for the benefit of those that don't or haven't used ducting before may I suggest threading a robust pull-cord through the ducting if a pull-wire is not included pre-mounted. Makes it much easier to pull a cable and replacement (for a second cable) pull-cord through, especially on longer runs that may include tightish curves or bends. :thumbsup::thumbsup::)
Click to expand...

Knowledge and experince.. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
LouisBalodis said:
I have literally just finished mine today and here's my opinion.

Sound deadening - silent coat 2mm. This goes on first. Remove panelling and stick it to as much exterior bodywork as you can. Something I noticed. A lot of people go waaaay overboard with making sure everything lines up perfectly and that every single square millimetre is covered. Forget it! Don't be too anal. It makes little to no difference. Chuck it on and get on with something more fun.

Insulation - I used a combination of 25mm Celotex and loft insulation (its just what I had lying around) Stuff the insulation in the crevices and hard to reach places, and the celotex covers the larger areas. Bit of gaffa tape if needed hold in place. Panels back on. Down the pub for chucking out time.
Click to expand...
I would be careful with the loft insulation ,there was a video the other day with a guy taking it out of his van and squeezing the water out of it ,he said it had only be in six months .
 
Really? oh crud. Link me o the video. Like most people say the key is ventilation. That water will surely be a condensation buildup? I've seen people sleeping in converted panel vans with all the doors full closed - bound to be a lot of water in the air. I shall keep and eye on it though. Failing that , had the insulation not been there, surely the water would just be sloshing around in the metalwork? Probably did him a favour.
 
LouisBalodis said:
Really? oh crud. Link me o the video. Like most people say the key is ventilation. That water will surely be a condensation buildup? I've seen people sleeping in converted panel vans with all the doors full closed - bound to be a lot of water in the air. I shall keep and eye on it though. Failing that , had the insulation not been there, surely the water would just be sloshing around in the metalwork? Probably did him a favour.
Click to expand...
LouisBalodis said:
Really? oh crud. Link me o the video. Like most people say the key is ventilation. That water will surely be a condensation buildup? I've seen people sleeping in converted panel vans with all the doors full closed - bound to be a lot of water in the air. I shall keep and eye on it though. Failing that , had the insulation not been there, surely the water would just be sloshing around in the metalwork? Probably did him a favour.
Click to expand...
The video was on facebook t5 page ,so sorry no link .
I used some white insulation ,it was what the Harrison's trim supplies sell .
 
As with residential properties, condensation is a major problem if there is little or no ventilated..... I liked a previous post about wind deflectors allowing the front windows to be left down with the deflectors preventing rain ingress.
 
@Vinci , yep to the wind deflectors, just don't have your heater thermostat mounted up near the rear view, as will be in the draft area, as well as reading wrong...
 
I have always used wind deflectors in my van to keep a bit of air moving at night. If they have a tint then it's really hard to see the window is open from the outside. That and an Eberspacher for the morning!
 
Tiny said:
Yes I agree, I was thinking of doing the ducting idea. They are then in place if ever any upgrades are needed at a later date.
Click to expand...
You can get trunking with a snap on cover....could you set the channel(s) into the foam for easy routing now and in the future?
 
@Vinci. Yes of course you can, :thumbsup: but if you want to take advantage of the easy on/off cover then you will have to remove the panels to get at them. :thumbsdown: The advantage of tubular ducting with a pull-cord is that you can draw new wiring through without having to remove panels along the whole run, :) which is useful to add additional cable runs. ;) The snap-cover ducting system was designed for easy usage surface mounting in a domestic environment to install hifi speaker cabling etc. around floor edges, skirting and doorframes with the development of ultra-low profile items.
 
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