Working on the theory that there's a wiring issue I've been going through the convenience wiring diagrams, as well as getting a magnifying glass on spare circuit boards I have for a non-safelock and a safelock actuators, to try and figure out all the pinouts and get a checklist of the connections that should be there before I start pulling all the trim off again.
One issue is that there are two different connection layouts (pages 2/10 and 2/12) for the rear right sliding door locks and neither of them seem to fit in with my spec, going by the asterisks. The diagram on 2/12 doesn't number the pins for the lock either (F223) and positions them differently to the diagram on 2/10 where they are numbered. Also, on the diagram below, does this mean that on F223, the left 2 x black wires, the blue wire and the 2 x grey wires are all commoned together? Or do those 2 bridges mean something different? I'm sure that there were only 5 wires coming out of the door lock, and the lock I bought actually still had a cut-off plug still on it that also had the same coloured wires?
Then just as an extra puzzler, I came across this, J731 right sliding door control unit, which I'd never noticed before, which has a connection back to the BCM. Where is this? Do I need to code this as well?
At first glance I always think I can follow a wiring diagram, and then it gets to a point where my head explodes
One issue is that there are two different connection layouts (pages 2/10 and 2/12) for the rear right sliding door locks and neither of them seem to fit in with my spec, going by the asterisks. The diagram on 2/12 doesn't number the pins for the lock either (F223) and positions them differently to the diagram on 2/10 where they are numbered. Also, on the diagram below, does this mean that on F223, the left 2 x black wires, the blue wire and the 2 x grey wires are all commoned together? Or do those 2 bridges mean something different? I'm sure that there were only 5 wires coming out of the door lock, and the lock I bought actually still had a cut-off plug still on it that also had the same coloured wires?
Then just as an extra puzzler, I came across this, J731 right sliding door control unit, which I'd never noticed before, which has a connection back to the BCM. Where is this? Do I need to code this as well?
At first glance I always think I can follow a wiring diagram, and then it gets to a point where my head explodes
I think that the purplewire is instead of the grey wire when you have safe lock not as well as, otherwise why have the 2 switches in the lock, without safelock they must link the 2 grey wires together?
If you don’t follow that, I can maybe annotate the drawing?
If you don’t follow that, I can maybe annotate the drawing?
The terminals on the lock are not numbered so i assume ( i havent seen one) that the lock unit has a fly lead on it leading to the connecting plug (T6cl) if so then are the two blacks doubled up before the plug therefore = 5 wires externally but 6 internally ??
The lock terminals are numbered on diagram 2/10, and if you look very closely at the inside of the blue plug on the lock, they're numbered from 1 to 8 in tiny writing there too. I've been working all weekend so I'll either have a look at it tonight if I get home early enough, or have a day of Tues or Wed
It was referring to the sliding door lock...
Another dead end unfortunately, I pulled the trim off the sliding door and unpicked the loom this morning. The connections and wiring colours matched up to the wiring diagram but there was no sign of the links marked on the diagram, so I dismantled the non-deadlocking lock and found that it was in there. The two are linked together at one contact of this microswitch and are connected to the black when it's depressed.
I assume that the arrangement of connections is different, or there is an extra microswitch in the Safelock lock, but I can't take that apart to be sure as with my technical ability it would be a one way process, and it wasn't cheap
I've checked everything around how the sliding door electrics works on the loom in very fine detail and I'm convinced enough that the problem can't be here so I'm taping up the loom and putting everything back. After that I'll work backwards and dismantle the passenger door again and see if I can find anything there.
I assume that the arrangement of connections is different, or there is an extra microswitch in the Safelock lock, but I can't take that apart to be sure as with my technical ability it would be a one way process, and it wasn't cheap
I've checked everything around how the sliding door electrics works on the loom in very fine detail and I'm convinced enough that the problem can't be here so I'm taping up the loom and putting everything back. After that I'll work backwards and dismantle the passenger door again and see if I can find anything there.
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Dismantled the passenger door and checked all the wiring and connections and made sure there was nothing in the way. Even put the original (non Safelock) lock back in to see what happened but it behaved the same so swapped it back and reassembled the passenger door. I'll do the same to the driver's door next time I'm free, and I've got a spare Safelock lock for that side so I'll swap that in. Upside is that I've gone from taking a day or more to replace a lock in a door to be able to do it and have it all back together in less than an hour.
Running out of options now though...
Running out of options now though...
Well I've now checked the wiring, and substituted spare locks in each door with no change in behaviour. The BCM has been coded in all the bits relevant to Safelock that I can find, the door control modules are the correct versions running the correct software and coded the same as known working vans, and the locks are all Safelock enabled and the same part nos as known working vans.
The thing is, Safelock works fine - it's being able to lock the door from the inside that doesn't work, they wil lock/unlock/lock/unlock and then stay unlocked. But if I disable the Safelock using VCDS, then the internal locking goes back to working fine. Back to poring over the BCM bits to see if anything at all stands out.
The thing is, Safelock works fine - it's being able to lock the door from the inside that doesn't work, they wil lock/unlock/lock/unlock and then stay unlocked. But if I disable the Safelock using VCDS, then the internal locking goes back to working fine. Back to poring over the BCM bits to see if anything at all stands out.
What's the origin of these wiring diagrams? As far as I was aware there weren't yet any available in English for the T6?
VW
Erwin. they were published in english June 2016
I update this thread so infrequently that I have to do a search for it each time. Anyway, finally managed to spend a couple of hours on this today so thought I'd bring it up to date,
I gave up on the Safelock, I just couldn't find a way to have it enabled that didn't cause the door-locking switch to be disabled and keep the doors unlocked any time the alarm wasn't armed. I've settled on using the method I mentioned before while playing with VCDS, the "2 lock option". This is a separate option from Safelock (which is no longer displayed on MFD) and I still don't really understand what this would normally be used for, but when set to active it deadlocks all the doors on pressing the lock button on remote as well as when pressing the internal lock button. The latter is the only drawback, you are deadlocked in at night, which obviously would cause problems evacuating the van if there was a fire and the electrics were disabled. I've decided to take the risk when I'm away camping, but will set it back to standard non-deadlocking with VCDS when I take my grandaughter away.
So the alarm. I spent some time on and off over the winter perfecting the arduino code and testing all sorts of sensors and in the end have gone back to using ultrasonics. It now takes multiple reading from two sources and averages them and is now extremely stable, once being left for 8 days with no false alarms but immediately went off when someone came within a metre of it. So the next step was to find a way of making the output from the Arduino trigger the alarm. Poring over the wiring diagrams, the easiest way seemed to be to break into the brown/blue wire coming from the passenger door open/close sensor where it comes through the door boot. My idea was that breaking this connection would make the BCM think the door had been opened, setting the alarm off. That didn't happen. The wire does indeed communicate whether the door is open, but it's looking for a particular signal to tell it if the door is open - breaking the connection just means that it can't tell and defaults to shut. I tried various resistances before getting the meter out. On DC setting it reads 250mv closed and 2.5v open. On AC it reads 4.4v closed and 0v open, with a frequency of 100Hz. I didn't have a scope so I have no idea of what the waveform is or how to trigger it.
It's not the end of the world as I can get a direct feed from the door lock itself before it gets to the door control module, I was just trying to do it the easy way as I am sick and tired of pulling the door cards off (which are starting to look a bit ragged at the corners they've been off so many times) and removing the locks.
The bigger problem is that I was going to use the alarm siren signal to trigger my new internal piezo deafeners and strobes, thinking it would be 12v (or at least 5v+ so I could use a relay). If that turns out to be some canbus pulse I don't know what I'm going to do. Maybe take the feed from the actual siren itself, but I don't suppose that's going to be easy to get to or any potential thief could just snip this to shut it off.
One step forward, one step backward...
I gave up on the Safelock, I just couldn't find a way to have it enabled that didn't cause the door-locking switch to be disabled and keep the doors unlocked any time the alarm wasn't armed. I've settled on using the method I mentioned before while playing with VCDS, the "2 lock option". This is a separate option from Safelock (which is no longer displayed on MFD) and I still don't really understand what this would normally be used for, but when set to active it deadlocks all the doors on pressing the lock button on remote as well as when pressing the internal lock button. The latter is the only drawback, you are deadlocked in at night, which obviously would cause problems evacuating the van if there was a fire and the electrics were disabled. I've decided to take the risk when I'm away camping, but will set it back to standard non-deadlocking with VCDS when I take my grandaughter away.
So the alarm. I spent some time on and off over the winter perfecting the arduino code and testing all sorts of sensors and in the end have gone back to using ultrasonics. It now takes multiple reading from two sources and averages them and is now extremely stable, once being left for 8 days with no false alarms but immediately went off when someone came within a metre of it. So the next step was to find a way of making the output from the Arduino trigger the alarm. Poring over the wiring diagrams, the easiest way seemed to be to break into the brown/blue wire coming from the passenger door open/close sensor where it comes through the door boot. My idea was that breaking this connection would make the BCM think the door had been opened, setting the alarm off. That didn't happen. The wire does indeed communicate whether the door is open, but it's looking for a particular signal to tell it if the door is open - breaking the connection just means that it can't tell and defaults to shut. I tried various resistances before getting the meter out. On DC setting it reads 250mv closed and 2.5v open. On AC it reads 4.4v closed and 0v open, with a frequency of 100Hz. I didn't have a scope so I have no idea of what the waveform is or how to trigger it.
It's not the end of the world as I can get a direct feed from the door lock itself before it gets to the door control module, I was just trying to do it the easy way as I am sick and tired of pulling the door cards off (which are starting to look a bit ragged at the corners they've been off so many times) and removing the locks.
The bigger problem is that I was going to use the alarm siren signal to trigger my new internal piezo deafeners and strobes, thinking it would be 12v (or at least 5v+ so I could use a relay). If that turns out to be some canbus pulse I don't know what I'm going to do. Maybe take the feed from the actual siren itself, but I don't suppose that's going to be easy to get to or any potential thief could just snip this to shut it off.
One step forward, one step backward...
While everyone was enjoying the sun I was driving home from work and had a brainwave. There was one thing I didn't try when fiddling with resistances, voltages and waveforms on the door close sensor wire above, and that was to ground it. Straight out to the van and tried it and it worked! Grounding the br/bl wire does fool the BCM into thinking that the passenger door has been opened, so I can now use the arduino to connect it to ground, via a relay, when an internal sensor is triggered. Just need to run the cables to under the drivers seat where the arduino will sit (powered by the leisure battery) but that's an easy step.
So with the input side solved, the other half of the project is the output, I still need a trigger for the internal strobe, piezo deafener and GSM dialer. What I had hoped for was to tap a 12v feed from the BCM going to the + side of the alarm siren and use this to activate a relay directly to set off the extra outputs, which would get their power from the leisure battery. I assume from what I've found so far though that the wire going from the BCM to the siren will just be a CANBUS signal and that the siren will get its power somewhere else under the bonnet. I've had a look around under there and I can't find the siren as I suppose it's deliberately been put somewhere inaccessible. I've even looked through my Haynes T5 and it skips over security and omits it from the wiring diagram.
So, anyone got any ideas how I can pick up a feed to trigger my alarm add-ons? It could even be that the plug going into the siren includes 12v, ground and CANBUS signal with the relay internal, in which case I suppose it's game over.
So with the input side solved, the other half of the project is the output, I still need a trigger for the internal strobe, piezo deafener and GSM dialer. What I had hoped for was to tap a 12v feed from the BCM going to the + side of the alarm siren and use this to activate a relay directly to set off the extra outputs, which would get their power from the leisure battery. I assume from what I've found so far though that the wire going from the BCM to the siren will just be a CANBUS signal and that the siren will get its power somewhere else under the bonnet. I've had a look around under there and I can't find the siren as I suppose it's deliberately been put somewhere inaccessible. I've even looked through my Haynes T5 and it skips over security and omits it from the wiring diagram.
So, anyone got any ideas how I can pick up a feed to trigger my alarm add-ons? It could even be that the plug going into the siren includes 12v, ground and CANBUS signal with the relay internal, in which case I suppose it's game over.
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Bump. Anyone got any idea where I can pick up a signal that the alarm has been triggered, to feed it to my ancilliary siren and lights? I've cracked every other aspect of my security upgrade but stalled on this step and can't go any further til I resolve it. I've got a bit of spare time coming up week after next and I'd like to crack on with all my outstanding van projects (6 at the last count ) and this is the most important one.
) and this is the most important one.
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