error P164D oil pressure

Dzięki za informację. Jutro zrobię test, bo samochód jest w warsztacie. Trochę się boję robić te testy, bo silnik w końcu się zatrze. Niedawno zrobiłem test VCDS, zarówno na zimno, jak i na ciepło, i jak pisałem, przeszedł pomyślnie. W oleju nie ma wiórów, bo już dwa razy wymieniałem filtr, i za każdym razem na nowy. Pierwszy raz był Mann, drugi Mahle, ale to nie pomogło. Nie używałem jeszcze gęstego oleju, bo chcę rozwiązać problem, a nie tylko go ukryć. We wtorek zacznę demontować miskę olejową i mierzyć wał. Po cichu liczyłem, że powiesz, że podstawa filtra oleju może mieć otwarty bypass, ale już wyjaśniłeś, że przy niskim ciśnieniu nie będzie to miało takiego samego efektu. Już sobie wytłumaczyłem, że chłodnica może być zatkana olejem, starym silikonem lub bypassem. Będę informował na forum o tym, co zrobiłem i czy to działa, ale już rozważam kupno innego silnika, ponieważ ten w moim samochodzie już mi się kończy.

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Thanks for the info. I'll do the test tomorrow, as the car is at the shop. I'm a little afraid to do these tests because the engine will eventually seize. I recently did a VCDS test, both cold and hot, and as I mentioned, it passed. There are no chips in the oil, as I've already replaced the filter twice, both times with a new one. The first time was Mann, the second Mahle, but that didn't help. I haven't used thick oil yet because I want to solve the problem, not just hide it. On Tuesday, I'll start removing the oil pan and measuring the shaft. I was secretly hoping you'd say the oil filter base might have an open bypass, but you've already explained that with low pressure, that won't have the same effect. I've already figured out that the radiator could be clogged with oil, old silicone, or the bypass. I'll keep the forum updated on what I've done and whether it works, but I'm already considering buying a different engine, as the one in my car is running low.


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I recently did a VCDS test, both cold and hot, and as I mentioned, it passed.

This is definitely not a pass - as both oil pressure switches are open. The status indicates only that the procedure itself ran "successfully", nothing about pass/fail of the oil pressure regulator.

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I'm a little afraid to do these tests because the engine will eventually seize.
Ok. No need to run the test - the picture tells it all :(
 
The sensors are electrically working because when it's cold, the low-pressure sensor is closed. As I mentioned earlier, everything works fine up to a maximum of 80 degrees Celsius. After that, what I see is two open sensors and a pressure error. I'll probably install two pressure gauges, one in place of the brown sensor, the other in place of the green sensor, and while driving, I'll check what they actually show at temperatures above 80 degrees Celsius. Then I'll consider what to do next, because without them, it's a blind replacement and expensive.

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If an oil filter goes into by-pass the oil goes to the oil gallery not the sump, there would be no loss in oil flow but there would be a reduction in filtration.
The oil cooler has nothing to do with the oil pressure issue.
Regarding the oil cooler, I asked because a friend once had an engine failure. The crankshaft came loose from the block, so he bought a new one. After a while, the pressure also dropped. It turned out the oil cooler was heavily contaminated, as he told me, and after installing a new one, the pressure was restored. When they assembled the new engine, they didn't replace the oil cooler, and all that dirt got into the lubrication system. And I don't really know the history of my car.
 
Hello, I disassembled the engine. The camshaft module cassette is damaged. I bought a second one, and after reassembly, everything is fine. I set the timing using the locking mechanisms, and the VCDDS shows adaptation 2.3. Should I leave it or adjust it to get it closer to 0? How do you have your timing set?
 
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