error P164D oil pressure

If you can't easily access the upper Sensor to attach a pressure gauge (which would be ideal) , maybe try running the VCDS tests with a cold engine to see what the sensors are reporting. With a cold engine the pressures should be higher (and you weren't getting the fault codes?)
 
This is quite a good thread with lots of useful information, if you haven't seen it already

 
I saw it, thanks. That's where I started. The VCD test passed, but I still replaced the valve and two sensors with original ones from the dealership, but that didn't help.
 
I've just replaced the pump with a new one, and the pressure is still bad. The light comes on from 72 to 90. When it's cold, up to 70, everything is fine. The low- and high-side valves are closed, open, and high-side valves close under acceleration. Later, at 72, the low-side valve even opens, and the oil pressure warning light starts popping up. I don't know what to do anymore. I'll replace the oil filter base. Then, if that doesn't help, I'll start disassembling the top of the engine. Any suggestions? I'll soon have to buy a second engine so I don't have to bother troubleshooting?
 
I am still thinking it could be related to the odd metal object you found in the sump.

Perhaps someone who has stripped down an engine eg @hoodee3 from Australia might recognise it.
Otherwise maybe a good VAG independent workshop.

From your earlier post fro reference..............


I'm still wondering if the N428 valve doesn't have this built in? Has anyone disassembled this valve?

IMG_2650.webp



IMG_2667.webp
 
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I've just replaced the pump with a new one, and the pressure is still bad. The light comes on from 72 to 90. When it's cold, up to 70, everything is fine. The low- and high-side valves are closed, open, and high-side valves close under acceleration. Later, at 72, the low-side valve even opens, and the oil pressure warning light starts popping up. I don't know what to do anymore. I'll replace the oil filter base. Then, if that doesn't help, I'll start disassembling the top of the engine. Any suggestions? I'll soon have to buy a second engine so I don't have to bother troubleshooting?
Have you cleaned dpf? Change oil to 5w-40 or 10w-40
 
I've just replaced the pump with a new one, and the pressure is still bad. The light comes on from 72 to 90. When it's cold, up to 70, everything is fine. The low- and high-side valves are closed, open, and high-side valves close under acceleration. Later, at 72, the low-side valve even opens, and the oil pressure warning light starts popping up. I don't know what to do anymore. I'll replace the oil filter base. Then, if that doesn't help, I'll start disassembling the top of the engine. Any suggestions? I'll soon have to buy a second engine so I don't have to bother troubleshooting?
From your other related post; bearing / journal clearance needs to be measured. Have a look at Plastigauge.
You could check some big end bearings, be aware that the bolts are single use.
Wear doesn’t tend to create filings, more microns than filings size, the stuff that passes through oil filters hence it’s in suspension in the oil, not visible to the naked eye.
Bearings need measuring along with the journals, looking doesn’t provide an assurance that they are not worn.
 
The DPF filter is good, and it often doesn't burn fuel. There's a problem with the oil. I poured in 5W30 oil and drove maybe 15 km before the error appeared. It wasn't my car before, it was a new purchase. This is my first oil change. Before the oil change, everything was fine.
 
I'm still wondering because this problem started after changing the oil. I used a 5W30 507 Mahle filter, so everything is fine. Maybe there's something stuck in the oil filter base, which is located along with the oil cooler. Maybe something got stuck there?
 
My problems with flashing coil light started after a oil service. I suspect the dealer I purchased it from had used a thicker oil to mask the problems of an engine that had potentially worn bearings/bores. By changing to a mixture of 5w40 and 10w40 stopped the fault on the cxeb twin turbo engine enough to run it through an auction and got a good price for it.
 
It's the same with me. I bought the car, it was in good condition and I drove it until the first oil change. I changed it to new oil and the problem started with the oil light flashing.
 
It's the same with me. I bought the car, it was in good condition and I drove it until the first oil change. I changed it to new oil and the problem started with the oil light flashing.
 
The pressure gauge showed at 80 degrees:

Idle 1.1 bar

1500 rpm 2 bar

2000 rpm 2.2 bar

2500 rpm 2.5 bar
Well, without knowing status of oil pressure regulating valve it's impossible to state anything meaningful.

In the logs high pressure switch is "closed" very rarely, hardly ever. Also low pressure switch should be "closed" ALWAYS when engine is running (as @manfrotto suspected).

I poured in 5W30 oil and drove maybe 15 km before the error appeared. It wasn't my car before, it was a new purchase. This is my first oil change. Before the oil change, everything was fine.
So you don't know what kind of "oil" was in the engine? Something significantly thicker than normal to mask the issue as suggested by @ryan944 above?

I've just replaced the pump with a new one, and the pressure is still bad.
I'm afraid you need to disassemble the engine more - measure crankshaft bearings as suggested by @DXX
 
It's the same with me. I bought the car, it was in good condition and I drove it until the first oil change. I changed it to new oil and the problem started with the oil light flashing.
Not unusual for people to use an oil additive to increase viscosity if a crankshaft seal is leaking. Happened to a friend of mine with a Land Rover Discovery, I had the pleasure of watching the private seller make the bank transfer for the repair cost with a damp stain in his trousers.
 
Well, without knowing status of oil pressure regulating valve it's impossible to state anything meaningful.

In the logs high pressure switch is "closed" very rarely, hardly ever. Also low pressure switch should be "closed" ALWAYS when engine is running (as @manfrotto suspected).


So you don't know what kind of "oil" was in the engine? Something significantly thicker than normal to mask the issue as suggested by @ryan944 above?


I'm afraid you need to disassemble the engine more - measure crankshaft bearings as suggested by @DXX
Thanks for the replies. I contacted the car seller, and he said there were no additives, and the oil was 5W-30. I don't know if he's telling the truth. The test was performed on both the old and new sensors and the valve. The VCDS test passed fine both before and after replacing them with new ones from the dealership. Now I have new sensors, valve, and oil pump. The bearings were checked, but only visually. I'm wondering if some carbon deposits from the oil filter base could have fallen into the bypass, perhaps blocking it or leaving it open? I should disassemble the oil cooler and inspect it, or replace it with a working, tested one. What do you think about the oil cooler? Could this also be a symptom of something wrong?
 
The bearings were checked, but only visually. I'm wondering if some carbon deposits from the oil filter base could have fallen into the bypass, perhaps blocking it or leaving it open? I should disassemble the oil cooler and inspect it, or replace it with a working, tested one. What do you think about the oil cooler? Could this also be a symptom of something wrong?
As mentioned above multiple times the bearings and journals cannot be evaluated by looking, the best method without making an investment in micrometers is to use Plastigauge.
If an oil filter goes into by-pass the oil goes to the oil gallery not the sump, there would be no loss in oil flow but there would be a reduction in filtration.
The oil cooler has nothing to do with the oil pressure issue.

Unless you want to keep going around in circles I suggest you get some Plastigauge and check some bearings and journals. The stretch bolts are single use, re-use could easily end in catastrophic damage.
 
Have you changed the oil filter? Last, and only, time I suffered an oil pressure issue on a vehicle that was the culprit. It may well not be the case here, but considering the negligible cost you'd be daft not to eliminate it from your enquiries.
 
The VCDS test passed fine both before and after replacing them with new ones from the dealership.
I'm not sure the engine Basic Settings actually has internal acceptance criteria. Usually the "success" is just that the test procedure did run correctly but no actual evaluation if the measurements were according to specification.

If you get a chance please run again IDE00494 - Test of changeover of oil pressure valve and make a recording of the data as described (Picture 5) in
 
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