Hi guys,
T6 drop link remove & replace Palava. Anti roll bar.
Just wanted to pass on my struggle & too late findings, that may help you guys having to eventually do this job.
My mechanic fell ill & I decided to fit new aftermarket Myle HD drop links - 4 nuts M12 to undo on 2017 T6 - both wheels off all the gear, easy peasy for experienced spanner man !! - “Not so” & hence this post.
Pre inspection wire brushed & penetrating lube proceedings, I loosened off main M18 x 12mm stud nut, which immediately spun the rusty stud itself. Turns out the end of the stud has a T40 indent about 6 ish mm deep. Snapped off/shattered 2 bits of high quality bits & thought - poonhamy, this is going to be a sob.
I mention this now: as a mechanical designer, what an oversight vw: little purchase spigot in end of stud, & overwhelming M12 nut torque - no contest &
Finished up a marathon, I hope you’ll avoid !!
Could not get a nut splitter on as flanged nut - tried heating nut to black heat ( also expands stud - then could only carefull & laboriously “dremel cut” (tight space) the nuts; which was a right pain for a fabrication experienced guy.
Had a brain wave on the last stud “ non compliant barsteward” - wonder if I rip off the rubber boot protecting the ball joint, if that might help: bingo !!!
Enough room to get a 6” mole grip to that side of the stud, yeh hey, mana from heaven !!
Another 5mins heating & coaxing & the nut came off - & I’m passing this on guys that will reduce all that malarkey down to a 2 hour job instead of 4/5 hr cutting & grinding rusty studs. PS the new drop links have Horizontal planes for a 14mm open end spanner on the back flange: obviously a much better addition. Hope this helps Guys
T6 drop link remove & replace Palava. Anti roll bar.
Just wanted to pass on my struggle & too late findings, that may help you guys having to eventually do this job.
My mechanic fell ill & I decided to fit new aftermarket Myle HD drop links - 4 nuts M12 to undo on 2017 T6 - both wheels off all the gear, easy peasy for experienced spanner man !! - “Not so” & hence this post.
Pre inspection wire brushed & penetrating lube proceedings, I loosened off main M18 x 12mm stud nut, which immediately spun the rusty stud itself. Turns out the end of the stud has a T40 indent about 6 ish mm deep. Snapped off/shattered 2 bits of high quality bits & thought - poonhamy, this is going to be a sob.
I mention this now: as a mechanical designer, what an oversight vw: little purchase spigot in end of stud, & overwhelming M12 nut torque - no contest &
Finished up a marathon, I hope you’ll avoid !!
Could not get a nut splitter on as flanged nut - tried heating nut to black heat ( also expands stud - then could only carefull & laboriously “dremel cut” (tight space) the nuts; which was a right pain for a fabrication experienced guy.
Had a brain wave on the last stud “ non compliant barsteward” - wonder if I rip off the rubber boot protecting the ball joint, if that might help: bingo !!!
Enough room to get a 6” mole grip to that side of the stud, yeh hey, mana from heaven !!
Another 5mins heating & coaxing & the nut came off - & I’m passing this on guys that will reduce all that malarkey down to a 2 hour job instead of 4/5 hr cutting & grinding rusty studs. PS the new drop links have Horizontal planes for a 14mm open end spanner on the back flange: obviously a much better addition. Hope this helps Guys