CTEK and Sargent EC155 switched live

[VdubVirgin]

Hi,

so installing the CTEK DC-DC charger and Sargent EC155 this week.

I am aware the CTEK needs to be attached to a switched live in fuse Board and have for a piggy back to do this. I believe middle row 3 Down?

my question is the Sargent also needs a connection for running signal.... could I simply split the same piggyback connector or best using another one, if so which one?

 

[Nigel W]

I am not an expert so please do your own research but I think the run signal for the Sargent is so that it disables the internal 12v supply when running to comply with some old regulations and also for the operation of a 3 way fridge as found in caravans. So you should consider not installing this connection.
I have a Sargent 328 and I have pulled the fuse to disable the ‘run’ feature.

 

[VdubVirgin]

I am not an expert so please do your own research but I think the run signal for the Sargent is so that it disables the internal 12v supply when running to comply with some old regulations and also for the operation of a 3 way fridge as found in caravans. So you should consider not installing this connection.
I have a Sargent 328 and I have pulled the fuse to disable the ‘run’ feature.

To be honest can't work it out.

the wiring diagram for the Sargent needs relay fitted with switched live, power from starter battery? Really not sure the need for it when using a dc dc charger

 

[Nigel W]

To be honest can't work it out.

the wiring diagram for the Sargent needs relay fitted with switched live, power from starter battery? Really not sure the need for it when using a dc dc charger

Exactly - what the run signal seems to do is turn on the split relay charging (which you don’t want/need), turn off all the internal 12v supply (which may want to use when driving such as internal lights, phone charger) and operate the 3 way fridge (which you don’t have).
I disconnected mine ages ago with no ill effects.

 

[VdubVirgin]

Exactly - what the run signal seems to do is turn on the split relay charging (which you don’t want/need), turn off all the internal 12v supply (which may want to use when driving such as internal lights, phone charger) and operate the 3 way fridge (which you don’t have).
I disconnected mine ages ago with no ill effects.

Cheers, so you don't have a run signal connected or you don't have the replay at all?

 

[Nigel W]

Cheers, so you don't have a run signal connected or you don't have the replay at all?

the original converter installed the run signal cable which was then disconnected when the Sterling Bat to Bat charger was installed.

 

[VdubVirgin]

the original converter installed the run signal cable which was then disconnected when the Sterling Bat to Bat charger was installed.

Cheers,
So have you also lost the ability to select starter battery as source on control panel?

And when you use a hook up, does the the Sargent unit charger both batteries

 

[Nigel W]

Cheers,
So have you also lost the ability to select starter battery as source on control panel?

And when you use a hook up, does the the Sargent unit charger both batteries

I can still select both batteries on the control panel and I can still select which one to charge when on hook up, the battery connections are all made it’s just the run signal cable which is disabled.

 

[Stuiemc]

I’m going through the same motions myself, I’m going to take the green/brown cables straight to the vehicle battery by-passing the relay and engine run cable. My only question now is where’s best to pick up the vehicle battery as my Sargent will be mounted on the rear driver quarter panel behind the wardrobe. Will I have to run the cables back to the split charger and connect them to the terminal where my vehicle battery connects?

 

[Squircle]

Afternoon, sorry for reviving an older thread, what was the conclusion on this in the end? I pulled the fuse to prevent the batteries being linked - but lost the ability to switch batteries as a result. I've since fitted a Lithium battery so have also turned off the RCD for the internal charger as well as pulling the fuse to prevent it being used on EHU. But I'd quite like the ability to switch between batteries if possible. Disconnecting the engine run cable sounds like a plan anyway.