Autotherm Planar code fault

[3crispies]

Fitted new heater at weekend and wont fire up just shows code 15 (under voltage) and display on controller of 10.8v. Charged battery and tested at terminals at 13.2v have an extension for controller so now have 2 sets of the planar fiddly plugs. Has anyone had issues with these 4 pin plugs.
Been advised on another thread that heater may be misfitted causing the code 15.
Got this from PF Jones earlier;

15

Shut down, low voltage, less than20V(for 24V) or less than10V (for 12V)

Faulty voltage regulator. Faulty battery.

Check battery terminals and wiring. Check the battery, charge it or replace if necessary

 

[SamD]

Try disconnecting the battery from the planar and let it all reset incase the panel is reading the wrong voltage. After that your going to need a multi meter to check if you are getting voltage drop between the unit and battery and unit and control panel

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

Have you extended cable or used the OEM extension? If you have ectended yourself, check colour cores align correctly at both ends. Also, check the connections as if plugged together on an angle, the innner pin can actually mis align and bend givin a non connection.

Very unlikely you have volt drop over that distance with OEM cables, more likely a bad conection, installation error etc, but worth a check. These are quite robust heaters and normally something obvious faulty on the install

Cheers
Ian

 

[3crispies]

Try disconnecting the battery from the planar and let it all reset incase the panel is reading the wrong voltage. After that your going to need a multi meter to check if you are getting voltage drop between the unit and battery and unit and control panel

Thanks that's the next step, but tried battery isolation anyway. The lead from unit is planar type with 4 pin connectors...

Have you extended cable or used the OEM extension? If you have ectended yourself, check colour cores align correctly at both ends. Also, check the connections as if plugged together on an angle, the innner pin can actually mis align and bend givin a non connection.

Very unlikely you have volt drop over that distance, but worth a check These are quite robust heaters and normally something obvious faulty on the install

Cheers
Ian

Oem bud and agree with inner plugs being easily bent

 

[AussieMick]

If you have 13.2v at supply battery and only 10.8v at the heater or controller then you have a voltage drop problem.
Carefully check each connection.

You can check the extension cable by unplugging cable at both ends and checking each wire for continuity with your multimeter set to the ohms scale. Should be low resistance, about 0.2 ohms.
If you can't fit your meter leads in the plug , stick something like a paperclip in each end and measure from that.
Also how good is your battery as on start up a planar heater pulls about 8amps. Your battery voltage may drop under load if it is starting to fail. It should only dip about 0.2v if the battery is ok. Leave your volt meter connected to the battery and try starting the heater and see if voltage drops too low.

The fault code is saying low voltage and the display is showing low voltage so that is obviously the problem.
Good luck.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Typed this hours ago but forgot to post!
If you have run a separate earth check that you have good contact, so often people forget that this is needed.

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

Thanks that's the next step, but tried battery isolation anyway. The lead from unit is planar type with 4 pin connectors...


Oem bud and agree with inner plugs being easily bent

look into connector, a pin may be bent. Low voltage for some reason, I dont think its genuine volt drop due to cable sizing, more likely a bad connecton. We've had silly problems in the past where you cant locate the fault, disconnect connectors and reconnect (no obvious problem) and then all works fine.

Good luck

 

[3crispies]

Typed this hours ago but forgot to post!
If you have run a separate earth check that you have good contact, so often people forget that this is needed.

Loom comes with pos and neg cables which are direct from battery. Issue is with all this crap dark nights can't actually get onto it.

 

[3crispies]

look into connector, a pin may be bent. Low voltage for some reason, I dont think its genuine volt drop due to cable sizing, more likely a bad connecton. We've had silly problems in the past where you cant locate the fault, disconnect connectors and reconnect (no obvious problem) and then all works fine.

Good luck

Yeah agreed May just bypass the 2 sets of connector plugs and join through.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

I had a brand new loom from Webasto with a broken wire inside - just because it is new it isn't necessarily good! ( that took a bit of finding)

 

[3crispies]

I had a brand new loom from Webasto with a broken wire inside - just because it is new it isn't necessarily good! ( that took a bit of finding)


View attachment 138136

Yeah found a soldered joint in 12v+/- leads hidden

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

I had a brand new loom from Webasto with a broken wire inside - just because it is new it isn't necessarily good! ( that took a bit of finding)


View attachment 138136

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

Loom comes with pos and neg cables which are direct from battery. Issue is with all this crap dark nights can't actually get onto it.

torch, new invention...

 

[3crispies]

All up and running thanks for all the help, turns out it was two things failing battery and a dry joint in manufacturers heater push fit terminals hence voltage discrepancies

 

[Albel]

Hi all anybody know if I can exchange my autotherm controller to a dig type or even Bluetooth controller simple the better I have the one in the picture

 

[Huba]

There is a new controller coming that has Bluetooth control (it will be more expensive than the comfort control you already have)

If you want a simpler controller there is the older rotary dial type that just does temperature and on/off (no Bluetooth)

You can add a modem to each of the above which gives the ability to control the heater from your phone via sms, albeit at a fairly high cost. I have one and it works fairly well

Others on here have fitted aftermarket remote on/off controllers using the remote start cables on the wiring loom. If you search for the recent threads on autoterm / planar there's details

Best place to ask questions for Autoterm stuff is on the facebook page, the importers are active on there

 

[Ayjay]

I might have the wrong end of the stick here but when you say 'dig type' are you just talking something with a digital display. I ask as they do the PU27 Controller which has a digital display and that's what I've got. I haven't used any of the alternatives but TBH, I wouldn't personally recommend the PU27 as I've always found it a pain in the aris as it's not particularly intuitive to use.

 

[Albel]

Thanks both I will take a look
Yes I find the controller I have just to be over designed and a pain I really only need a simple on off and a temp stat
Will take a look on the web Facebook page for some help but simple the better for me don’t need time control plus any of the other fancy stuff cheers

 

[Huba]

Autoterm Simple digital controller PU-5

Autoterm Simple digital controller PU-5 Technical parameters: Control panel PU-5, assy.3765 (a.k.a 3520) This control panel is suitable with all PLANAR air heaters 12V and 24V. “Power mode” (If the external sensor is not connected) Designed for quickest possible heating of the space; The heater...

autoterm.store

Above is the simplest controller

You could sell the comfort controller easily as people would want it as an upgrade to the above