Alternator Problem???

L

Lee Steadman

New Member
My van has been converted to a camper by a local company.
The Propex heater in the back keeps showing a voltage fault. The unit requires 10.3 to 12.8 volts to operate correctly which is fine when the van is off, but jumps up to 14.7v when the engine is running.
The conversion company are telling me it's an alternator or NG battery issue which will need to go into VW for as a warranty item.

What is the output from a T6 2.0 highline alternator normally?

Is 14.7v too high?
 
The modern smart alternators do output higher voltage when in the regenerative braking mode, it's not a fault just a feature of the system. Search this forum on split charge and blue motion vehicles.

However are you sure that it's a voltage problem and not a draught problem on the combustion air inlet and/or outlet? Does it happen when the vehicle is stationary or only when it's moving?

If it proves to be a voltage problem then I would suggest talking to Martyn, @travelvolts, he is THE expert on leisure vehicle electrics and advice and his kit offers are the best (kit and price) you'll get. If it is't in his online store then you have to ask is it any good. and do not baulk at paying him a penny or two more - you WILL get it back in good advice. Also known elsewhere as Upspex

Rod
 
14.7V totally normal when alternator putting out a charge.

even up to 15.0v under regen braking . .


even an old school non stop/start/regen alternator would output 13.8v

so somethings not right here, why is the voltage range for the heater so low?

edit:

water heater or air heater?

which model?
 
This cropped up a few weeks ago. I will see if I can find the thread.

Essentially the van is working as expected - the alternator will put out 14.7V or possible more then running, and your converter company should know that.

The solution is to put a switch in the power feed to the Propex heater, and only turn it on when stationary and engine off (which is the only time when you will use it ?)

This works for me.

Pete
 
The original query begs a couple of other questions:

Is the heater connected to a leisure battery, or directly to the main starter battery ?
If to the starter battery, why ?
If to the leisure battery, why is it seeing 14.7V ? Presumably an old style relay charging solution has been put in place, which we know is sub-optimal.
Which camper convertor company thinks that 14.7V is unusual - they should know better (IMHO).

Pete
 
Cheers for all the input.
As I thought, the conversion company haven't got a clue.
I think the regulator would be the best way to go, but the inline switch wouldn't be much of an issue.
 
Pete C said:
The original query begs a couple of other questions:

Is the heater connected to a leisure battery, or directly to the main starter battery ?
If to the starter battery, why ?
If to the leisure battery, why is it seeing 14.7V ? Presumably an old style relay charging solution has been put in place, which we know is sub-optimal.
Which camper convertor company thinks that 14.7V is unusual - they should know better (IMHO).

Pete
Click to expand...

yep, we noted the 14.7v and 15v regen highs with a factory split charge relay on a MY18 factory leisure setup across both batterys when the relay was connected..

A DC-DC charger would help i suppose,

Tho if hes had a full conversion then there must be more to his setup?
 
Pete C said:
The original query begs a couple of other questions:

Is the heater connected to a leisure battery, or directly to the main starter battery ?
If to the starter battery, why ?
If to the leisure battery, why is it seeing 14.7V ? Presumably an old style relay charging solution has been put in place, which we know is sub-optimal.
Which camper convertor company thinks that 14.7V is unusual - they should know better (IMHO).

Pete
Click to expand...

Sorry Pete.
Heater connected to leisure battery.
Not sure which charging system is being used.
 
Dellmassive said:
yep, we noted the 14.7v and 15v regen highs with a factory split charge relay on a MY18 factory leisure setup across both batterys when the relay was connected..

A DC-DC charger would help i suppose,

Tho if hes had a full conversion then there must be more to his setup?
Click to expand...


What other info do you need?

Obviously a complete beginner on this stuff.
 
It sounds like you have a traditional split charge relay solution. Ideally you would have a DC-DC charger solution. The problem is that whilst the split charge approach is sub-optimal, it's what VW still use (from what I have read on this forum). Therefore, if you went back to your convertor and challenged them, they could just say "but it's what VW do".
The simplest solution is to fit an isolating switch in the power feed to the heater (as above), or fit a regulator like the one identified above. Both are pretty simple solutions. Fitting a switch means you could still get the over-voltage issue if you tried to use the heater with the engine running.

Pete
 
See if anyone else chips in here before you speak to the conversion company - you may get another perspective.

Pete
 
Swap the split charge relay for a DC-DC charger that will remove the spikes and properly charge your leisure batteries .
 
Loz said:
Swap the split charge relay for a DC-DC charger that will remove the spikes and properly charge your leisure batteries .
Click to expand...


Don't think the conversion company will cough up the extra for the DC-DC.

Would it be worth me changing it myself or should I just go for the voltage regulator for now?
 
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