Which Bus Bar

sgh

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Collecting parts together for my leisure battery set up without inverter..

100AH FOGSTAR DRIFT ECO
150A 58V CFM FOGSTAR TERMINAL FUSE BLOCK
200W RENOLOGY SHADOWFLUX PANEL
VICTRON ORION 12/12 30 DC-DC CHARGER
VICTRON 300A SMART SHUNT
BLUESEA 50525 FUSE BOX
VICTRON MTTP 100/20 SOLAR CONTROLLER
VICTRON 275A BATTERY ISOLATOR

What's the most compact Bus Bar I can use as some I have found online are huge.
 
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The van?

I’ve still yet to do a bit of digging but as the battery is bolted directly to the van chassis, I’ve yet to figure out what the negatives (tee hee!) are to using the van as the return path.
 
Just looked at the specs on you fuse box and to be fair it’s got a decent size stud on it. How many circuits do you need?
 
Just looked at the specs on you fuse box and to be fair it’s got a decent size stud on it. How many circuits do you need?
T6.1 SWB Kombi.

I plan fitting battery on its side with isolator, shunt and charger under passenger seat using earth under seat base. Fuse box and MTTP under drivers seat.

To start with Hella Din Socket (For Dometic CFX35) and 10amp Cigar Socket in rear of van by rear arch / Panel rear of driver 10amp cigar socket and USB. / In driver seat base pocket 15amp cigar socket. / 2 x LED lights in tailgate panel. / 6 x LED lights in headliner.

Later I plan on getting Diesel heater fitted by Planar Pete
 
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Run the -ve from each device to the nearest earth point on the van, rather than lots of extra wiring and resistance to take it back to the fusebox.

The fusebox you link looks like decent kit. It has a picture of a marine installation, where you don’t want to run current through the metal hull (or maybe you have a fibreglass boat). For a van not constantly immersed in seawater, going via the body is the OEM way to go.
 
Busbars are . normally sized for the current rating.... So larger current,= larger bar.

The smallest version is a single stud. Cables are then attached in a star configuration
 
Got some pictures s of the install?
 
Not my layout but found this that I was going to use less BM2 but including shunt.

IMG_9992.webp
 
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Not my layout but found this that I was going to use less BM2 but including shunt.

View attachment 309339
Lol....

Looks like one of my layouts.



.


.
 
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Lol....

Looks like one of my layouts.



.


.
So would 150ah bus bar be ok
 
The busbar needs to be sized for the max current going through it.

so whats the max current?

there is a 300A MEGA fuse shown before the isolator. . . are you expecting 300A

your OP shows a 20A solar charger and a 30A Orion charger.

so from that you would expect a 50A max thoughput?


but you also show a 12v fusebox - dont dont say what the expected loads are?
 
Fuse box assuming everything running at one time no more than 30amp.

The only constant drawer would be from my compressor fridge appox 7.5amp when running, only in summer months as it would left on permanently.
 
Anything coming from Blue Sea Systems is good kit. However, as has been noted, they do sell into the marine market in the main (which is where I have used them) so they can be pretty solid. But for me 'solid' means robust, fit for purpose and unlikely to let you down in the middle of a Force 10.

(Marine market in the main - hehehehe, sorry)
 
T6.1 SWB Kombi.
Ha! Apologies, I meant use the van as a negative busbar.

So would 150ah bus bar be ok
That's not how you measure a busbar... as Dellm has eluded to.

Fuse box assuming everything running at one time no more than 30amp.
So you need a lump of metal rated for say 32A, which isn't much at all.

Either drop your negatives to the van, or bundle them all onto the fusebox stud. I'd say you don't need a negative busbar.
You do have a fair few circuits, so if you're wanting it to look neat and plan on running negative cables back to the fusebox then you only need something small.
 
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Ha! Apologies, I meant use the van as a negative busbar.


That's not how you measure a busbar... as Dellm has eluded to.


So you need a lump of metal rated for say 32A, which isn't much at all.

Either drop your negatives to the van, or bundle them all onto the fusebox stud. I'd say you don't need a negative busbar.
You do have a fair few circuits, so if you're wanting it to look neat and plan on running negative cables back to the fusebox then you only need something small.

I think sockets in the back and lights in tailgate I'll earth on factory points available in the rear, others I will get one of those bus bars 👍
 
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