Webasto issue - controller crashed - T46

[Johnnyconverter]

The only time we have seen this issue with Webasto is the controller plug and socket getting corroded.. or at the heater end where a extension is added.. normally under the cab floor carpet/mat, as the gets damp from leaks or from wet shoes over a period of time

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Thanks - it’s brand new so I hope it’s not that but will have a good luck

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Knackerred battery seems favourite then, watch the voltage as the heater tries to start.

 

[Johnnyconverter]

I am really grateful for the advice, the Batteries are new, and everything else can run perfectly - it seems that power is stable (judging by the led in the switch, but whenever I plug in the controller or the Tcon2 remote the power fades (only on the switch led, the voltage meter remains constant)

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Have you measured the voltage at the closest point to the heater? What was it before and after connecting.
And the same for the controller. The brown and red wire at the controller's plug.
I should say that it is possibly high resistance on the brown or red wire to the controller, either corrosion or poor contact. Hence the need for the voltage readings. Without them I cannot go any further.

 

[Johnnyconverter]

Have you measured the voltage at the closest point to the heater? What was it before and after connecting.
And the same for the controller. The brown and red wire at the controller's plug.
I should say that it is possibly high resistance on the brown or red wire to the controller, either corrosion or poor contact. Hence the need for the voltage readings. Without them I cannot go any further.

Hi again, a thought stuck me because I had a similar issue with the fridge back in the day, I have taken the neutral now from the battery because when I take it from the chassis I got the intermittent fault - which now seems resolved I guess the chassis neutral is another problem, now I’m having a T46 error which says I should “Ensure that the consumer at the switch output is not drawing more than 500mA.” Any guidance on either of these would be appreciated - until I can get it to a pro. Thank you

 

[oldiebut goodie]

I should say that it is possibly high resistance on the brown or red wire to the controller, either corrosion or poor contact. Hence the need for the voltage readings. Without them I cannot go any further.

 

[Johnnyconverter]

Ok thanks, I get a multi meter tomorrow and let you know the reads, thanks for your help

 

[Johnnyconverter]

Good morning, multi meter acquired
Readings at battery, heater before and after connection also controller all the same at 12.75v

 

[oldiebut goodie]

The controller voltage at the connector that is 30cm down from the controller - that is reading the same whilst it is playing up? ( across the red and brown wires )

 

[Johnnyconverter]

Yes that’s where I took the reading, when it’s trying to fire it drops to 11.50 (while the ignition is clicking) then back 12.6, I get a low voltage alarm on the t con app(just got this working ) then it gives up and goes back to 12.6

 

[oldiebut goodie]

The low voltage alarm is indicating that there is a problem somewhere with your power supply. All that I can suggest is that you check each and every connection, check for corrosion, poor crimps on the terminals, it is still sounding like an intermittent connection or a high resistance due to corrosion of a contact.
You shouldn't hear any ignition clicking only the fuel pump after the glow pin has done its work.

I had a heater that I sold and the guy couldn't get it to work after he had someone install it - they had managed to insert a fuse incorrectly so that there was poor contact so do not rule anything out, check everything methodically, both power cables and negative undoing and inspecting every connection carefully. Change the fuses in case one is dodgy - it can happen.

You can try a start with a battery charger on the power source to raise the voltage up to 14v or so - if that works it is either a connection or the battery.

 

[Absolut5]

Yes that’s where I took the reading, when it’s trying to fire it drops to 11.50 (while the ignition is clicking) then back 12.6, I get a low voltage alarm on the t con app(just got this working ) then it gives up and goes back to 12.6

Trace the controller wires and find the connection which is more than likely under the drivers seat/floor , same connection as the display.

 

[Johnnyconverter]

Thanks for all your help, i think i had cooked the battery ! - more money up the swany appreciate all your help