Webasto CR49 Problem. Help Please

[Wezzo]

Hi. My Webasto CR49 fridge has stopped working, so before I rip it out I wondered if someone has had a similar problem and can point me in the right direction.

The fridge has power as the light is on but when I switch to 1 the power cuts off and the light goes out. My thinking is that once the compressor switches on and gets a load it must trip something.

Sounds pretty simple when I write it but I don’t want to rip it out only to find there is a reset switch under the handle or something similar.

thanks

 

[Pete C]

What state is the battery powering it in ?
Plenty of charge ?

Pete

 

[Wezzo]

Yes plenty of charge. All other electrics from the same source are ok

 

[Pauly]

Just because 'other' stuff works doesnt mean the battery is good, fridges use a reasonable amount of juice compared to LED lights and things like that so it may be possible the battery is (semi)knackered and the voltage is dropping when the fridge kicks in

 

[Wezzo]

Thanks for your reply. I’ll test tomorrow but I would have though that if the battery was knackered then as the fridge draws all the current the other components would be effected too. I get your point though that LEDs need very little current. I’ll try with the engine running.

 

[AussieMick]

Most fridge problems on this forum turn out to be the supply battery, it is usually not holding a decent charge as the battery is either getting old or has been allowed to go flat and damaged the battery. Fridges and diesel heaters pull a higher load on start up which causes them to shut down if the supply power is too low.

 

[Pete C]

Also check all the connections, including ground connection, to the fridge.
A poor connection could cause a voltage drop due to the current drawn on startup.

Pete

 

[Dilbert]

. I get your point though that LEDs need very little current.

Also remember many modern devices will run on wider voltage ranges. LED lights do not dim on a reduced voltage but it would affect a compressor fridge which has low voltage cut out protection.

 

[Wezzo]

Thanks for your input so far. So here is what I have found
- I have a good 12.64v on my leisure battery.
- fees at the fridge terminal is the same with the connectors removed from the SECOP control unit
- when the 2 terminals are then connected to the SECOP the voltage drops to 3.97v

So the question now is whether the condenser has caused the SECOP to fail or whether it’s just the control unit?

Something needs replacing. I see that control units are about £200 and a condenser about £500. New fridge at £525 from Just Campers

 

[AussieMick]

What voltage do you have on the battery terminals when the fridge starts trying to run, it shouldn't drop too much.
eg if 12.6v not running then maybe around 12.3v or so on start up.
If it drops below 12v too far ,your battery is not holding charge.

 

[Wezzo]

As I mentioned above, the battery that is 3 years old and little use seems fine. Full 12.6v at the fridge but drops to 4v when plugged into the controller

 

[Dilbert]

What happens if you measure the voltages in these two scenarios on the battery terminals?

 

[Wezzo]

Another session of investigations and swap outs.
- I tried to trace the volt drop back through the wiring and learnt it pays not to did too deep into the work that supposed professional conveyors undertake. Example, I have a dedicated fuse on my Sargent Unit but for some reason this muppet decided to add another inline fuse hidden way behind a screw on panel. See pictures of said wiring.

- anyway, long story short, borrowed a mates new leisure battery and boom away it went. So back to post #1 here, so thank you.

I now have another question. The ‘factory fitted’ spare battery fitted by VW is a Varta 7PO 915 105 A, 12v 75Ah 420A DIN job. Surfing the net for a replacement it is described as a Starter battery. So next 2 questions

1) did my converter do a number on my and swap my leisure battery for this one?
2) what would a good replacement be?

thanks for your help guys, I can sense a cold beer now anytime soon

 

[Salty Spuds]

1) did my converter do a number on my and swap my leisure battery for this one?
2) what would a good replacement be?

1, no, that’s standard VW OEM 2nd battery
2, a Lithium battery with appropriate B2B charger.

 

[AussieMick]

Most fridge problems on this forum turn out to be the supply battery.....................

 

[DXX]

Another session of investigations and swap outs.
- I tried to trace the volt drop back through the wiring and learnt it pays not to did too deep into the work that supposed professional conveyors undertake. Example, I have a dedicated fuse on my Sargent Unit but for some reason this muppet decided to add another inline fuse hidden way behind a screw on panel. See pictures of said wiring.

- anyway, long story short, borrowed a mates new leisure battery and boom away it went. So back to post #1 here, so thank you.

I now have another question. The ‘factory fitted’ spare battery fitted by VW is a Varta 7PO 915 105 A, 12v 75Ah 420A DIN job. Surfing the net for a replacement it is described as a Starter battery. So next 2 questions

1) did my converter do a number on my and swap my leisure battery for this one?
2) what would a good replacement be?

thanks for your help guys, I can sense a cold beer now anytime soon

View attachment 197955

DC voltage drops as the cable length is increased, the photo shows not just a complete mess but enough spare cable coiled up to wire a fleet of campervans.
Who did this?

 

[oldiebut goodie]

This guy?

 

[Wezzo]

DC voltage drops as the cable length is increased, the photo shows not just a complete mess but enough spare cable coiled up to wire a fleet of campervans.
Who did this?

Yes agree. I won’t name the converter here on open forum but if you are from the BA20 postcode area, drop me a PM