Upgrade DC DC

[emjga]

Folks

Just back from NC500 trip over 2 weeks.
Weather was very mixed between some sunshine and normal Scottish weather.

Currently have the following
T5 LWB

Solar pannel
JAM60S10-345/MR
Peek Power 345W
Open Circuit voltage 41.76V
Max Power voltage 34.99
Short Circuit current 10.54A
Max Power current 9.86A

Solar Charger
EPever VS3024AU

Batteries
TN Power AGM 12V 100Ah TNE12-100

Have a very old VSR which I dont think works at all.

I realized that you can not just hope to use Solar all the time and you do need a DC to DC charger.
To help to keep the batters toped up.

So the question is what make / model DC DC charger I should be looking at that is either fully compatible with the above or a dual model
DC - DC and Solar charger

I know Victron is properly the market leader so was having a look at this first.
However I think there only do a DC - DC Charger and done do a dual DC - DC / Solar charger
Would prefer a single unit but have not found anything that seems to be able to work with the above panel


If I was going down the route of seperate units.
Think the following would work for Solar charger Victron SmartSolar MPPT Charge Controller 100/30

Think the following work for a DC - DC charge Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A Isolated DC-DC charger

The other item I have is that even after lots of checking the main starter battery still has a voltage leek of some sort and the van needs to be started every week.
So a item like Sterling Battery-Battery Maintainer 12V-12V, 3A , might work.

Again if there was a all in one unit it would be a lot simpler setup


Any thoughts

Matthew

 

[Salty Spuds]

The problem with "all in one" units, is that if you have a problem, you lose all methods of charging your battery, it's an all your eggs in one basket, scenario.
I prefer the one box per job "modular" approach.

 

[roadtripper]

Think the following work for a DC - DC charge Victron Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A Isolated DC-DC charger

Note that you don't need the isolated version in a van as it's fine to use the body as a common ground, the isolated versions are for more marine environments (where currents in a metal hull will cause galvanic corrosion) or coach-built vans.

The isolated will be fine with both grounds on the body but as you don't need it don't pay a premium for it if the non-isolated is cheaper!

Also consider the Renogy 50A DC-DC even if you downrate it to 30A to keep in the current handling of your wiring if required. Many folks find it runs cooler at equivalent charging rates than the Victron.

For starter trickle charging the Ablemail AMT12 is popular as a fit and forget solution. You'll need to be confident that you have sufficient charging on your leisure battery (solar or EHU) if you are not going to end up with both batteries low.

As a curve ball suggestion the new Sargent DC-DC chargers apparently offer bidirectional charging so they will charger the lower voltage battery from the higher voltage one, Starter to Leisure when driving, Leisure to Starter when on EHU. However they are new and I don't think many folks have used them, and some people have found their support a little idiosyncratic.

 

[T6Jay]

If you go for the Renogy DCC50S make sure to get the newer version, it handles solar panels up to 50VOC, the old version does not.

The DCC50S will maintain your starter battery from the solar when the leisure battery is full. Not much use in winter though, unless you keep the EHU on.

EDIT, I have one of these, and it's been perfect for 3 years.

 

[sparkzer]

i personally decided on the Renogy DCC50S...just waiting for a good deal to come up as I'm in no hurry for it

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Another vote for the Renogy DCC50S. My original one failed quite interestingly and you can read about it in another thread here somewhere.
Because it did everything I wanted I bought a new one. The later versions have better cooling and other improvements.
Not mentioned in the excellent posts above is that the Renogy comes with a temperature sensor that you can tape to the top of your TN Power battery and the unit will prevent charging the battery at low temperatures and knackering your TN Power battery. Especially useful up here in Scotland and for the TN Power which doesn't have an internal BCM to deal with low temps.
It also handles solar panels with higher voltages which some DC-DC units have a problem with.
If you also buy the Bluetooth module you can use it to keep tabs on the charging and easily set up the unit.
Mine is set up to reduce the maximum charge from 50A to 30A for battery life and to keep the unit well within its capabilities.

 

[RikParr73]

Another vote for the Renogy DCC50S. My original one failed quite interestingly and you can read about it in another thread here somewhere.
Because it did everything I wanted I bought a new one. The later versions have better cooling and other improvements.
Not mentioned in the excellent posts above is that the Renogy comes with a temperature sensor that you can tape to the top of your TN Power battery and the unit will prevent charging the battery at low temperatures and knackering your TN Power battery. Especially useful up here in Scotland and for the TN Power which doesn't have an internal BCM to deal with low temps.
It also handles solar panels with higher voltages which some DC-DC units have a problem with.
If you also buy the Bluetooth module you can use it to keep tabs on the charging and easily set up the unit.
Mine is set up to reduce the maximum charge from 50A to 30A for battery life and to keep the unit well within its capabilities.

Hi, could I use the Renogy DCC50S in my 2017 Euro T6 to replace a CTEK250SA, which is now redundant after installing a Fogstar lithium battery (Found this out from another post I made yesterday) - Thanks, Rik.

 

[Farnorthsurfer]

Hi, could I use the Renogy DCC50S in my 2017 Euro T6 to replace a CTEK250SA, which is now redundant after installing a Fogstar lithium battery (Found this out from another post I made yesterday) - Thanks, Rik

Does the CTEK not work anymore?
Sure the Renogy will do the job if you have the space for it

 

[RikParr73]

Does the CTEK not work anymore?
Sure the Renogy will do the job if you have the space for it

Yes it does but it's the SA model and it's not compatible with Lithium battery. The Sargent keeps alarming too (High voltage alarm)