TSI flat battery - starts with a jump but dies immediately [Resolved]

Shaun Witts

Ski Bus
VIP Member
T6 Guru
So flat battery this morning. Dash lights OK, and the remote unlock worked OK, but dim lights when the key was turned and the battery monitor was reading 11.15v. Its a 2018 van and the original battery was replaced under warranty within the 1st year (with another Moll that I suspect they got out of a van in their yard - they as much admitted so), but it has lasted well enough and I’ve only done one short (10 mins) drive in the last 2 weeks, so maybe I can’t complain.

Anyway…

No problem I thought, as I dug out the Noco GB150 to jump it. It was a bit difficult to get the chunky Noco clamps onto the battery terminals, but I found a way and expected all to be OK as I turned the key. Engine turns over and starts. Starter disengages, engine dies. Again and again.

So I hit the throttle, and managed to keep it going with some revs, but as soon as I let off the throttle, it died. I tried the same again, and kept it running for longer on the throttle hoping to put some charge in the battery, then a red warning appeared on the dash (it may have been the ACC unavailable? It certainly included an exclamation mark) so I released the throttle and it died again. After that, it wouldn’t rev at all while attempting to start, although the engine caught each time and immediately died as before.

I couldn’t try anymore as I had to be somewhere, so I hurriedly attached a battery charger to the dash 12v socket, but it didn’t appear to register the battery and couldn’t be set to anything (the last battery it charged was a Lithium), so I left it like that for the day (with the charger LED indicating off, but still connected). This evening, when I got home, I was able to reset the charger and it appears to be charging, but has not reached a full charge yet so I haven’t tried to start it.

I expect that I am going to have to buy a new battery, but my concern at the moment is why could I not start it using the Noco jump start pack that seemed perfectly capable of turning it over many more times? That has always been my fall back in case of a flat battery but, while it appeared to have plenty of juice for the job, why did my petrol van not start?

Incidentally, I have checked quickly for error codes using an OBD reader and there were none. However, my old laptop with VCDS is on charge for a more thorough check tomorrow. I’ll be able to update with details as to any codes and whether it starts tomorrow.
 
That's odd.

It should start and run from the NOCO, assuming it was connected ok.

The alternator should kick in to power the Van as soon as the engine spins up.?

.

What happens now that battery is half charged?
 
Read the error codes using VCDS first thing this morning. There were 3 errors recorded: Cylinder misfire detected intermittent, Quiescent current exceeded intermittent and Fuel Rail/System pressure too low. I noted that all of these occurred while I was trying to start it yesterday morning, and the fuel pressure in particular happened at 2,450rpm, so as I was trying to keep it alive by revving it (on the max limit in neutral - which was the warning I saw). Also, the voltage was recorded as 14.4v, so I think the alternator is OK.

Cleared all the errors, checked the charged battery on the BM at 12.78v, then I disconnected the charger and it immediately dropped to 11.6v. However, the engine turned over fine, started, revved to about tickover rpm and died, just like Saturday morning. After a few attempts I tried revving it as the engine caught, and was able to keep it revving for a short while before it died again after which it wouldn’t rev above idle at all. Through all of these attempts the battery seemed to be turning the engine over just fine and so I didn’t feel the need to connect the Noco GB150 again (which was recharged since yesterdays drain took it to about 75%). Also might be worth noting that the vans other electrics, such as remote locking, interior and dash lights etc were always working, so the battery was never totally flat,

Anyway, I have lost confidence in the battery now, whatever else might be wrong, and with a trip to Austria in a few weeks, and the need to drive 4 hours to Bristol tomorrow, I ordered a Halfords replacement (with 5 year warranty), which I have since collected and fitted. While the battery was out, I followed the capacitive discharge ECU reset guide (thanks @Dellmassive) just in case. The battery was coded using VCDS (Halfords batteries are apparently made by Exide, and this was an AGM battery rather than EFB for the old Moll).

The new battery was showing 12.54v on the BM, so I turned the key, expecting the same symptoms as before and bugger me if it didn’t start just fine!

ISSUE RESOLVED with a new battery! :)

However… Why did it not start with the Noco? Was there another issue, perhaps cleared by the ECU reset?
I am a bit frustrated that a weak battery (not totally dead as the remote locking & dash lights all worked OK) could not be jump started by the Noco.

Still, at least it all appears OK now.
 
Sounds like the battery was totally dead. I had the exact same symptoms as you and wish I saw this thread earlier. Was on a Ford Custom though. New battery solved the problem and under warranty as was only a year old!
 
@Shaun Witts my TSI is a 2018 van also can stand for weeks on end not used still on original moll battery no starting issues ever BUT I do have it on a 50w solar panel on the dash via cigarette lighter socket I don't know if the would help in your situation
 
@Shaun Witts my TSI is a 2018 van also can stand for weeks on end not used still on original moll battery no starting issues ever BUT I do have it on a 50w solar panel on the dash via cigarette lighter socket I don't know if the would help in your situation
Thanks. My solar panel is wired to trickle charge the starter battery. However, I park under cover so it is only of use when I’m away.
I have started connecting the EHU each week to keep the leisure battery in good nick, but didn’t want to have to also plug in a charger each time for the starter battery - maybe that wish will have to be abandoned.
 
Have you tried connecting a charger to the starter battery to charge both batteries? This could be a way to charge the leisure via the DC if you have one. Your DC would need to work via voltage recognition instead of ignition live. I've seen it mentioned as a solution when using solar but not sure how or if it would work with a mains charger.
 
If on EHU at home if you have 240v outlets in the van can you not use a 240v charger with cigarette plug adaptor to charge starter battery I've done this on site before
 
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I'd normally recommend the ad hoc internal but sounded like you wanted a fit and forget option.

Have a semi permanent cable certainly helps. Winter on my drive tends to have 2 cables out to run a CTEK at both parking positions; one tends to be the nice car that doesn't move much till spring, the other is the old workhorse XC70 that hasn't liked starting under 0 for several years unless the battery is topped off. It's cheaper to charge than endless try and trace why.
 
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