touch light led lights that work off 2 way switched circuit?

T6DSGChris

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hiya

had 2 way switched dowlighters (x6) in back of my t5....i could get in touch them to turn off...
but if switched off at a door swtich and back on they'd reset to on off full beam....

lot of these now will turn off...but when 12v sent to them via switch or if you just send to battery they are in "rest" mode until the chrome bezel touched.

anyone any ideas..its as though the new units (same as i had before on other conversions) are programmed different
even when i talk to companies who say they will work how i want, they turn up and guess what...they dont...

any vibes... frustrated..thanks
 
Hello I had same problem. Want them to work off doors and via touch. I have open up one down light and found two pcb boards. One to control the lights and another with led’s. Tested the two wires going up to led’s, found one live and one negative, as normal. When you touch the light to turn off, the voltage drops, then I applied a negative to the negative wire and led’s light up. So I hack in extra wire. Now the down light has three wires coming out. 12v positive negative/ground and my hack wire for door. Note had to use diodes in line with my hack wire as I don’t want all lights coming on when I just touch one light. And also there is small back feed from bcm on the door feed wire to the original lights causing a slight glow. This can be overcome using a relay with 30G (live feed for original light) and the door signal across relay control terminals (85 & 86) 30 is ground and 87 to feed my wire hack. Note also you may have diode across the two relay control wires if you have buzzing from relay. This is done for customer and as they wanted the option to have the lights off even when door s are open. I have put in two switches a master on the driver’s B post trim and one more on passenger’s B post next side door opening. I had to hack the switches as they had blue led in them. Open them up and revert the led... then you are only switching a negative. This means relay feed from 87 will go to first switch then out of that to second switch and from that switch to the extra wires you have added to the lights. Oh and use 30G wire at switches so the blue led lights up. 30G is a timed output so when the lights go off so will the blue led’s in the switch. A lot off head scratching went on before I worked this out maybe this can help.
 
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Wow... you clearly are on the ball, thankyou
It lost me a little bit, especially as your wiring to different things... thought i’d show you a photo of mine to see what you think?

C25651E2-F744-48D7-A1EE-DAFB5211EEE2.jpeg

D77B6297-7B45-4E20-9A5F-42C48696BF0B.jpeg
 
To help you rule one model out, I have the lights below. These remember their brightness when turned off and on by touch, but after a power disconnect they will not turn back on without touch, and will be back to full brightness.

 
Hi Chris that light is totally different to the one we had. I take that the red is live, black is ground and pink is for touch. I would connect to 12 volts and measure between the live (red wire) and the LED- on the rear. Test in both on and off (The lamp we had two wires going up to a separate LED pcb board).when I tested between live (red wire) and LED – the voltage changed but when I tested between the ground (black wire) and the LED+ nothing changed. That was how I worked out that the pcb board was using the – to switch LED on and off. So used a jumper wire from ground (black wire feed to the LED light) and touched the LED- briefly. The led came on when I made the connection and off when connection was removed
 
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