No but are made separate, I had two new ones fitted to my T5 because I was not happy with how it fitted after the first was bent. They will be batch produced and Sprayed the colour needed.
T6 California roof corrosion
- Thread starter Snowy55
- Start date
Wow @Snowy55 you did kick the hornets nest with this one, the tread you started on the Cali forum is now up to 9 pages and still buzzing
I thought people should be aware of what they are getting themselves into.
VW will be blissfully unaware of what's happening and deny there is any roof corrosion on the T6 but I and at least one other know differently and if I told VWCS of my experience they will say it's an"isolated case"
It's a real shame - I'll check mine soon. However the T6 is improved in so many other areas that even with this issue rearing it's ugly head again, I'm not massively bothered. We had it with the last one and it was a pain but it never spoiled the actual function of the van and they are such a ticket to fun adventures in something that can be used as a daily driver (unlike a motorhome) that I can just about stomach the issue even though it's pretty daft of VW.
I think the poor lights issue (H4s equipped Beaches) is more of a pressing matter and some reports of poor mpg are a bit alarming.
I think the poor lights issue (H4s equipped Beaches) is more of a pressing matter and some reports of poor mpg are a bit alarming.
And on that note I'm now averaging 26mpg. Used v power the last 3 tanks and I can honestly say. No difference, however that's for another thread.
Unless you are mercilessly ragging the nuts off it (which I doubt) thats not right. Someone had an EGR valve replaced and the mpg improved dramatically - could it be worth taking yours in to see if any fault codes come up? Or VAGCOM/Carista it with someone here? Definitely sounds dodgy to me.
Well known fault on the T5 California and it appears that the fault still exists on some T6 California's.
The Cali forum are collating data on this so please would all T6 Cali owners report to them too? After taking it straight back to the dealership if the problem is discovered of course!
The Cali forum are collating data on this so please would all T6 Cali owners report to them too? After taking it straight back to the dealership if the problem is discovered of course!
Tricky when you've been banned for daring to voice numerous issues on your old T5.1 Cali...
@Polzeylad never knew that, I'm beginning to like you more 
So yesterday it was Sunny, dry, with a breeze so a perfect day to raise the roof and have look.
Well there was loads of condensation that I suspect was from the day I opened it up in the rainto show some friends, so I wiped all that off, them saw a puddle of water was by the offside front drain so cleaned that out together with the dead leaves.
Then pulled off a section seal and it was dry with no tramlines, wiped and re fitted.
I think there is a need to spray the underside of the roof edges with some silicone on a regular basis to stop the moisture build up 0n the bellow frames and a need to check the drain holes are clear to make sure any water is gone if the roof is staying down for any extended period.
Well there was loads of condensation that I suspect was from the day I opened it up in the rainto show some friends, so I wiped all that off, them saw a puddle of water was by the offside front drain so cleaned that out together with the dead leaves.
Then pulled off a section seal and it was dry with no tramlines, wiped and re fitted.
I think there is a need to spray the underside of the roof edges with some silicone on a regular basis to stop the moisture build up 0n the bellow frames and a need to check the drain holes are clear to make sure any water is gone if the roof is staying down for any extended period.
Sounds like sensible advice!
Ok, don't shoot me, not a Cali owner, but a note to all, if you take in for paintwork, and regularly spay silicone spray, please advise them, as silicone causes bad reaction to any paintwork, and travels a long way (you wouldn't believe how far), so will need a VERY good pre paint clean! As I say, please don't shoot 
Good advice, presumably any treatment, wax or otherwise will heed the same precaution?Ok, don't shoot me, not a Cali owner, but a note to all, if you take in for paintwork, and regularly spay silicone spray, please advise them, as silicone causes bad reaction to any paintwork, and travels a long way (you wouldn't believe how far), so will need a VERY good pre paint clean! As I say, please don't shoot
Now up to 12 pages most of them sound like a bunch of headless chickens
@Loz , wax is normally ok, but worth telling them, as you will be building up a thick layer that will want more than a wipe over to remove completely. The problem with silicone is that when you wipe it to remove it, unless you wipe and discard rag (wipe on, wipe off, discard), you just spread it about. The other thing is, spray something like back to black 10ft away from an oven with open doors (small amount) and a car in it, and then try painting said car, and you will get reaction (as well as a bollocking)
Been looking at the bubbles, they are corrosion, probably caused by the base coat still being slightly wet, and not fully flashed off before the lacquer is applied and baked. The primer is 2k, but the base coat is water based, if it doesn't flash off, which takes air drying, moisture will still be present under the lacquer which is 2k, and will eventually penetrate the 2k primer which is porous and creates corrosion bubbles. The 2k takes 6weeks to out gass and fully cure, the oven just flash bakes it, and doesn't cure it fully, as it's a chemical reaction hence the 2k. The soft paint is evidenced by the lines that are apparent in the finish in the area of the roof seal. (My take on it anyway).
My understanding (weak attempt at qualifying myself - I have a BEng in Materials Engineering) is that it's bi-metallic corrosion. The bodywork is steel, the roof is aluminium, they should be electrically isolated from each other but aren't.
I'm sure many of you know but put two metals next to each other and they will form an electric current which in turn creates a corroding effect - the further apart in the reactivity table, the larger the "potential difference" and the worse the corrosion. So aluminium next to steel needs an insulating barrier - designers know this yet VW can't seem to get it right. Defenders have always corroded too due to the aluminium body panels and steel chassis.
So while soft/uncured paint doesn't exactly help, the root cause is bi-metallic corrosion. For those who know feel they're being made to suck eggs, apologies!
I'm sure many of you know but put two metals next to each other and they will form an electric current which in turn creates a corroding effect - the further apart in the reactivity table, the larger the "potential difference" and the worse the corrosion. So aluminium next to steel needs an insulating barrier - designers know this yet VW can't seem to get it right. Defenders have always corroded too due to the aluminium body panels and steel chassis.
So while soft/uncured paint doesn't exactly help, the root cause is bi-metallic corrosion. For those who know feel they're being made to suck eggs, apologies!
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