Soldering Anderson connectors

[osman]

So I ended up purchasing the red Anderson connectors which are probably totally over the top but whatever .. how do you solder to these pins .. a 40w soldering iron is useless .. the solder melts the pin gets hot but no adhesion

 

[DXX]

I use one of these on the heavy stuff, heat it up with a gas torch and fix it in the vice.
Cheap and available on ebay etc.

 

[Mud Digger]

did you pre tin the cable tips and holding the iron under the pin for heat to rise

 

[Dellmassive]

Tbh... i dont bother anymore.

I used to put the end in a vice with plumbers matt.

Then use map gas blow torch and fill the conector with solder...

Then strip and dip the cable in plumbers flux.

Then stuff the end in....

Watching out for the solder splatter.

I now just use a massive set of crimps instead...... safer imho.

 

[osman]

did you pre tin the cable tips and holding the iron under the pin for heat to rise

I pre tinned the cables no problem
But the Anderson connectors metal just won’t adhere with the solder despite sanding the surface and also using isopropyl to clean the metal .( It looks like it’s a tin coated copper) From what I have seen it looks like I need to use a blow torch to get it hot enough which worry’s me as the cables insulation may not be up to the job ..

 

[osman]

Tbh... i dont bother anymore.

I used to put the end in a vice with plumbers matt.

Then use map gas blow torch and fill the conector with solder...

Then strip and dip the cable in plumbers flux.

Then stuff the end in....

Watching out for the solder splatter.

I now just use a massive set of crimps instead...... safer imho.

Ok so the pins still fit into the plastic casing when squashed ? My problem is the size of the cable I’m intending on using . The Anderson connector is huge and the cable is a fraction of the size .. I was planning on using 28 amp rated cable ( fused with a 25 amp on the positive ) as this seems the correct size for the victron solar controller I’m going to connect

 

[DXX]

did you pre tin the cable tips and holding the iron under the pin for heat to rise

There’s so much heat transfer with a large plumbers iron it’s a case of touch and go, above or below makes no difference.
I use some flux along with multicore solder, tinning is good practice but I buy tin coated cable anyway for corrosion protection.
Practice first, it’s easy to create a stiff cable with too much solder capillary penetration and too easy to burn the insulation off.
IMO it’s good practice to put a short length of heat shrink over as much of the soldered joint as possible after soldering and cleaning.

 

[Nigel W]

Ok so the pins still fit into the plastic casing when squashed ? My problem is the size of the cable I’m intending on using . The Anderson connector is huge and the cable is a fraction of the size .. I was planning on using 28 amp rated cable ( fused with a 25 amp on the positive ) as this seems the correct size for the victron solar controller I’m going to connect

Being a complete amateur I just squished them as much as I could with every tool I could find until the cable was well and truly trapped and yes it did still fit in the casing.

 

[Skyliner33]

Ok so the pins still fit into the plastic casing when squashed ? My problem is the size of the cable I’m intending on using . The Anderson connector is huge and the cable is a fraction of the size .. I was planning on using 28 amp rated cable ( fused with a 25 amp on the positive ) as this seems the correct size for the victron solar controller I’m going to connect

Use some extra copper cable to fill the Anderson connector before crimping?

 

[DXX]

I pre tinned the cables no problem
But the Anderson connectors metal just won’t adhere with the solder despite sanding the surface and also using isopropyl to clean the metal .( It looks like it’s a tin coated copper) From what I have seen it looks like I need to use a blow torch to get it hot enough which worry’s me as the cables insulation may not be up to the job ..

Some crimps and terminals are not suitable or designed to be soldered. Only copper or tinned copper can be soldered.

 

[osman]

Some crimps and terminals are not suitable or designed to be soldered. Only copper or tinned copper can be soldered.

Hmm this is worrying me as I don’t want to buy tools to do this job if the pins are not designed to accept solder … it did look to me like the metal was refusing to bond with the solder .. but I’m not convinced as it certainly does look like tinned copper to me after sanding it a little ….I just presumed it was not getting hot enough however now im not so sure.

 

[Littleblackflash]

I have the correct crimping tool for there connectors. Its not a small hand held tool, it's about 1/2m long arms.

I'm in Chichester if you wanted to pop over and crimp them correctly.

 

[Mud Digger]

cant you warm the pins hot enough over the gas cooker holding with pliers and with some sacrificial tape around the insulation then push onto the pre tinned wires

 

[osman]

I have the correct crimping tool for there connectors. Its not a small hand held tool, it's about 1/2m long arms.

I'm in Chichester if you wanted to pop over and crimp them correctly.

Thanks for this offer If I can’t solder I will get back to you

 

[Dellmassive]

Fwiw . . . . This is what i use...

Battery cable crimping tool recommendation please

As per the title. Lots of options but the reviews are mixed at best, though anything I buy will not see anything more than light use. Been looking at the hydraulic options, like this ColdShine Hydraulic Crimper Tool Kit Tube Terminals Lugs Battery Cable Wire Crimping Force: Amazon.co.uk...

www.t6forum.com

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More pic and info here....

Post in thread '[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I ....

Post in thread '[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --' [Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --



.

 

[Littleblackflash]

I like the hydraulic tool, much smaller to keep in my tool box than mine. I think I'll order one at £24.

 

[DXX]

Hmm this is worrying me as I don’t want to buy tools to do this job if the pins are not designed to accept solder … it did look to me like the metal was refusing to bond with the solder .. but I’m not convinced as it certainly does look like tinned copper to me after sanding it a little ….I just presumed it was not getting hot enough however now im not so sure.

Look at the specification of the terminals / splices, if they are not suitable for soldering it will say so.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I've never had any issues soldering to Anderson terminals, they might even be silver plated (best coating as the oxide has the same resistance as the base metal)
I use a TS100 iron so no problems with getting heat into them.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

I use a 150W iron for larger stuff like that.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

So I ended up purchasing the red Anderson connectors which are probably totally over the top but whatever .. how do you solder to these pins .. a 40w soldering iron is useless .. the solder melts the pin gets hot but no adhesion

I used to make my own - 22mm copper pipe beaten into a lump with a FBH. Cheaper than Ebay! ( Not that Ebay had been invented then)