Solar Panel fail

I have just ordered a windscreen removal kit - which is a reel of like cheese wire and 2 T handles. The idea is to use the wire to slice through the bonding that is is holding the flexable panel to the pop top. Then it's clean up the top removing as much of the bonding as I can. I am going for a Renogy Shadowfox 200w rigid solar panel.
Not the best time of year to start and do this sort of thing outdoors but if I make a start and get the old panel off and tidy up the roof it's half the job done. I want it finished for the Spring.
 
I (also) have a faulty flexi panel & Victron 100/20 MPPT, so limited to a 280w panel @ 14v. If I fitted a bigger panel, say 350w, am I correct in thinking all that will happen is when the 350w reaches peak output, the MPPT will just max out at 20A output, but otherwise be fine? On less sunny periods the bigger panel will help me achieve the 20A output sooner?

Also cant decide between rigid or another flexible, so good to follow this thread. Thanks
I have had 2 flex solar panel in 4 years. The first one was a 150w which died 2 month outside of it's 12month warranty. I paid quute a bit extra for what I was told by the same installer was a more reliable panel 250w, with a 2yr warranty. That panel delaminated 3 months out of warranty. I am feeding a 110ah Lifepo4 battery, so at the mo I'm looking at a Renogy Shadowfox 200w rigid panel. With that I can keep my Victron 100/20 controller saving me £120 expense. Personally I would never go back to a flexi just to have it fail after 2 seasons and have it all to do again.
 
I have had 2 flex solar panel in 4 years. The first one was a 150w which died 2 month outside of it's 12month warranty. I paid quute a bit extra for what I was told by the same installer was a more reliable panel 250w, with a 2yr warranty. That panel delaminated 3 months out of warranty. I am feeding a 110ah Lifepo4 battery, so at the mo I'm looking at a Renogy Shadowfox 200w rigid panel. With that I can keep my Victron 100/20 controller saving me £120 expense. Personally I would never go back to a flexi just to have it fail after 2 seasons and have it all to do again.
Thanks for this insight. I think I am pretty much in the same place as you. Think my PU Panel is still under warranty, but its more the hassle of the work to replace it. So am thinking on a rigid panel next.

Worth a read on how to remove the old one? Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure
 
Thanks for this insight. I think I am pretty much in the same place as you. Think my PU Panel is still under warranty, but its more the hassle of the work to replace it. So am thinking on a rigid panel next.

Worth a read on how to remove the old one? Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure
PU do a range of rigid panels, there's a 200 watt one for £120. I'm sure they would do you a deal to replace your flexi under warranty.
It took a few weeks for them to send me a new one to replace a duff panel under warranty, but they were good genuine folk to deal with.
 
Don't forget to ask the installer for a neat minimalist cable entry, under the panel! Scanstrut is wonderful, but visible! When you have a rigid, it's easier to hide the cables underneath your panel! In my case they circular sawed through my old Panel and used a 'top hat' sealed gland thing to keep water out..

20250603_103120.webp
 
Don't forget to ask the installer for a neat minimalist cable entry, under the panel! Scanstrut is wonderful, but visible! When you have a rigid, it's easier to hide the cables underneath your panel! In my case they circular sawed through my old Panel and used a 'top hat' sealed gland thing to keep water out..

View attachment 312571
Thanks, I think I've found a rigid panel = 350w that will span completely over the bonded failed 250w panel but I will have to uprate my Victron contoller from 100/20 to 100/30. The existing panel already has a cable gland + hole for cables to pass into the van. It loojs like I might be fitting it myself with some help from my lad (40's) and my Mrs.
 
Thanks, I think I've found a rigid panel = 350w that will span completely over the bonded failed 250w panel but I will have to uprate my Victron contoller from 100/20 to 100/30. The existing panel already has a cable gland + hole for cables to pass into the van. It loojs like I might be fitting it myself with some help from my lad (40's) and my Mrs.
Well done! I would be tempted to leave the 100/20 and put any monies toward an upgrade to your leisure battery! Yes it will max out at 274watts, but your LB will be maxed out most of the time with that panel! There's a few folk on here with a 100/20 in the 'Big Boys 300w+ Club'!
 
Here is a picture of my leading edge. The plastic mounts have faded a bit from the sun. I bolted through the roof and glued the mounts as a rigid panel coming off at speed would be disastrous to anyone following especially motorcycles. View attachment 312595
Thanks for the pic, I have seen those brackets on the net and they look just the job to construct a fairing at the leading edge of the panel.
 
Well done! I would be tempted to leave the 100/20 and put any monies toward an upgrade to your leisure battery! Yes it will max out at 274watts, but your LB will be maxed out most of the time with that panel! There's a few folk on here with a 100/20 in the 'Big Boys 300w+ Club'!
I litterally have no more room to locate another LB but have found that my existing 110ah lifepo4 meets my needs.
 
I spoke to an installer that does solar panels on RV's, Boats, Campervans. They refused to fit a rigid panel to a fibreglass pop top but were vague as to their reasons and only said there were too many associated risks. Any ideas what they might be meaning - apart from that, their price was way too much.
CT.
 
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I spoke to an installer that does solar panels on RV's, Boats, Campervans. They refused to fit a rigid panel to a fibreglass pop top but were vague as to their reasons and only said there were too many associated risks. Any ideas what they might be meaning - apart from that, their price was way too much.
CT.
I've seen comments elsewhere previously where water has worked it's way into poorly made fibreglass via screw holes and caused the fibreglas to blow.
 
I've seen comments elsewhere previously where water has worked it's way into poorly made fibreglass via screw holes and caused the fibreglas to blow.
OK, thanks, I'll have to make certain that all fixing points are thoroughly sealed. Thanks for the pointer
CT.
 
You’ll also need to spread the load at the fastening points, large but slightly flexible washer type ‘doublers’ on both sides of the GRP.
 
Thanks for this insight. I think I am pretty much in the same place as you. Think my PU Panel is still under warranty, but its more the hassle of the work to replace it. So am thinking on a rigid panel next.

Worth a read on how to remove the old one? Dellmassive`s Camper Van Adventure
I have just received a windscreen removal kit £8.00 from e-bay to use like a cheese wire to slice under the flex panel but I am now looking at leaving it on and fitting a bigger but rigid panel over the top of it. I an not in a hurry as I am sure you will agree it's not a good time of year to becworking outdoors fitting a solar panel on a campervan pop top.
CT.
 
I have just received a windscreen removal kit £8.00 from e-bay to use like a cheese wire to slice under the flex panel but I am now looking at leaving it on and fitting a bigger but rigid panel over the top of it. I an not in a hurry as I am sure you will agree it's not a good time of year to becworking outdoors fitting a solar panel on a campervan pop top.
CT.
Thanks CT, still planning to remove mine and pursue a warranty claim. It will also mean 8kg less weight on pop top and van. Plan to use combo of windscreen cheese wire, bread knife etc & clean up with toffee wheel. Put something like PPF down if still unsightly.

Need to do more research on rigid panel mounting that suits my Skyline poptop. Not sure if thats brackets or side roof bars. Roof bars would mean am not drilling solar panel size specific holes in roof & spread load better. Will also make panel replacement much more straight forward if failure happens.

Warranty & supplier CS record will be a key decider when buy replacement panel. Will also work out what everything weighs and test weight on pop top before commit.

Yeah its a job for warmer weather...
 
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