Lining - Ply And Carpet Questions.

Discussion in 'Interiors, Seating, Lining' started by Skyliner33, 3 Jan 2019.

  1. Skyliner33

    Skyliner33 Senior Member VIP Member T6 Guru

    Ok I am now up to the stage of buying the ply panels and carpet.

    Ply Panels
    Options
    Floor: 12mm or 9mm.
    12mm maybe a bit more solid, disadvantage more weight
    9mm maybe a bit flexible, advantage lighter weight
    With both will need to think about height and matching the steps.

    At the moment I have 9mm batons (Silent Coat between) and then some 5mm spongy insulation stuff then they ply floor to go on this.

    Sides:
    6mm or 3.6mm
    Custom shop designs suggested 3.6mm was fine unless I planned to put any speakers in then go for 6mm. Is this the way to go? Or can I get away with 3.6mm and mount speakers (not going to at the moment but what if in the future?)

    Carpet:
    I have read on hear about jointless (1 piece carpet), especially on the awessome work by @Absolut5 but Harrisons said with 2 m width carpet its not possible to line the back of a SWB panel van only using 1 piece. Is this correct?
    If not where would the carpet start?

    Secondly, if I wanted to do 1 colour carpet how many meters would I need.
    Or if I wanted 2 colours 1 for the metalwork and a second for the removable panels how much would I need.

    Thanks for any info you can give to help these decisions.
     
  2. carlg

    carlg 204 DSG Highline Kombi MY17 VIP Member T6 Legend

    I would go for 3.6 mm panels as the hidden clips work best with that .
    I did my metal work and put joints in you can't see them and imo it was easier and less waste .

    IMAG2290.jpg

    IMAG2291.jpg
     
    Raven likes this.
  3. Skyliner33

    Skyliner33 Senior Member VIP Member T6 Guru

    Thanks, that looks great. I would be well happy with a finish like that. How much carpet did you use and where are the joints?
     
  4. carlg

    carlg 204 DSG Highline Kombi MY17 VIP Member T6 Legend

    I got the kit from Harrison's trim supplies .
    There aren't lots of joints ,there is one each side of the tail gate near the top coroner . It is quite easy to get an invisible joint
     
    Skyliner33 likes this.
  5. Absolut5

    Absolut5 Senior Member Trade Member T6 Guru

    Map

    The floor thickness with your 5mm sponge u dear it will depend on what you going trim it in, Altro stick with 12mm, hard wearing rubber backed carpet 9mm.

    If you are fitting furniture then 12mm is best

    We manufacture our panels with a width of 6mm with complete hidden fixings and sound very solid and dense, but 3.6mm will allow speakers to be fitted as you can always mount a collar behind to strengthen them and allow

    Start the lining from the top of the B pillar

    Look at megavanmats they do carpet kits
     
  6. Skyliner33

    Skyliner33 Senior Member VIP Member T6 Guru

    Thanks for this:

    I was thinking Altro, and maybe furniture.

    Thats good to know.

    I think I get it now, start with the 2m end of the roll vertical at the off side B pillar. Then work towards the back of the van, across the top of the tailgate, and forwards along the near side. That would use a lot of extra material, especially if you trim all the ply in a contrasting colour.

    These are all I can find: https://www.megavanmats.online/online-shop
     
  7. Eli1264

    Eli1264 Member

    Map
    I run a company that provides cnc router panels for a lot of van liners and wheel chair access (WAV) modification company’s. All use a 12mm floor and 5.5mm sides and roof ( if doing the roof in a single piece) and use packers in between the “ribs” in the floor pan
     
    Skyliner33 likes this.
  8. Skyliner33

    Skyliner33 Senior Member VIP Member T6 Guru

    Thanks. What do you mean by packers in between the "ribs" please.

    This is the 5mm floor insulation I bought:
    Screen Shot 2019-01-14 at 16.46.03.png
    ( Premium Gold underfloor insulation )

    I got an email of a conversion company who said they just screw the 12mm ply to 9mm batons I have down already.
    So is it a case of just throwing this stuff away and doing without. Im not sure I like the idea of no insulation at all under the floor. Are there any alternatives?
    Thanks
     
  9. Eli1264

    Eli1264 Member

    Map
    Keep the insulation you have down and place 9mm plywood in the gaps where the floor is raised, then screw the 12mm down. That stops the floor from bowing when you walk in it
     
  10. Skyliner33

    Skyliner33 Senior Member VIP Member T6 Guru

    Thanks, however I've already stuck the 9mm batons down. :/

    47_bulkhead_out.JPG

    40__Battons_slientcoat.JPG
     
  11. Eli1264

    Eli1264 Member

    Map
    Fair enough,the only issue you might have is if you get any condensation trapped between the insulation and the floor of the van,the plywood could delaminate
     
  12. Skyliner33

    Skyliner33 Senior Member VIP Member T6 Guru

    So I'm better off just with more silent coat between the batons and then the 12mm floor? What about a vapour barrier?
     
  13. Eli1264

    Eli1264 Member

    Map
    On the 4 vans I have done over the years, I put silent coat down then bind the battens to the silent coat. I also yet to half lap the 12mm floor joints as to stop sagging in the floor or as in my last van I routered the floor out of a single sheet of 10 x 5 plywood before screwing to the van floor. I the use to get under the van to seal where the screw came through the floor. Perks of running a CNC plywood company I now have a Caravelle as I was spending to much time converting vans
     
    Skyliner33 likes this.

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