Interior lights manual only

[Trekster]

Recently bought the van and now noticed all the interior lights (cab and rear compartment) only come on if they are put into manual position. I take from that the fuses are ok, otherwise there would be no lighting at all?
Tried different switch positions but has not made any difference.
Am I missing something very simple here, have read a number of threads but not found a solution

 

[Dellmassive]

Got a pic of the lights and switch?

 

[WillWillWill]

Once we have some pictures we can probably help more, but I seem to remember mine doing similar when I got it. The main overhead console light worked if you slid the switch to manual, was off in the middle, and didn't come on in the door open setting.

I think I took it apart and found there is some sort of spring arrangement that holds the switch contact onto the circuit board and had either corroded or worn away or something. I remember putting a small washer in to pack the spring a bit tighter and improve the contact connection and it has never been a problem since.

I'll try and strip it open at some point and have a look, but I think it would be pretty obvious to see on yours if it was the same.

 

[Pauly]

As above a bit more info would be good
T6 or 6.1 ?
Standard lights or LEDs ?
Do the doors show on the dash when they are opened and closed ?

 

[Trekster]

It’s a T6 with standard lights. The doors show on the dash when opened.
The cab and rear lights can be turned on manually but remain unlit otherwise

 

[Pauly]

Have you moved the rocker fully the other way, theres three positions it can be in and centre one is off

If they are in the correct position and the dash is showing the doors open then you have to assume the van is getting the signal the doors are opening and closing so no obvious reason for them not to work, the fact they come on manually means the positive circuit is good, the issue must be related to the switched negative the door signal provides

 

[Trekster]

Have you moved the rocker fully the other way, theres three positions it can be in and centre one is off

If they are in the correct position and the dash is showing the doors open then you have to assume the van is getting the signal the doors are opening and closing so no obvious reason for them not to work, the fact they come on manually means the positive circuit is good, the issue must be related to the switched negative the door signal provides

I have tried all 3 positions, it doesn’t matter which door I open, cab, side or rear, they don’t light up. That’s why I wondered if they were on a different fuse.

 

[WillWillWill]

Try rattling the switch around when it is in the on when door open position. Mine got loose over the years and wore out. It might come on intermittently if you have a bad connection. You could buy a new one, or repair it like this if it is similar in design. You have to remove the light fitting (pop off the clear lens and undo a couple of T15s, then pull it out. There is a spring on mine which has lost its springiness and so the contacts aren't tight.

This is the back of the removed unit:


The spring is visible top right:


I added an M5 washer which sits between the top of the spring and the plastic barbs that form the rear of the sliding switch:


This tightens it all up nicely and never a problem since.

 

[Trekster]

Try rattling the switch around when it is in the on when door open position. Mine got loose over the years and wore out. It might come on intermittently if you have a bad connection. You could buy a new one, or repair it like this if it is similar in design. You have to remove the light fitting (pop off the clear lens and undo a couple of T15s, then pull it out. There is a spring on mine which has lost its springiness and so the contacts aren't tight.

This is the back of the removed unit:
View attachment 178010

The spring is visible top right:
View attachment 178011View attachment 178012

I added an M5 washer which sits between the top of the spring and the plastic barbs that form the rear of the sliding switch:
View attachment 178013

This tightens it all up nicely and never a problem since.

Would one bad switch stop both rear compartment lights and the cab light not to come on when any doors are opened?

 

[WillWillWill]

No idea. I don’t have rear lights. If they are switched separately probably not, if all controlled off the front one yes.

Probably worth going and checking the earth continuity with a multimeter, and then we don’t have to guess.

 

[Foofighter25]

Hi

Did anyone solve this problem?

If my light switches are set to door open setting, they come on when I unlock the van but dont go out when I start the van.
I have had the rear roof panel down and looked for any obvious wire damage and checked light fittings. I've had the cab light out and all seems good. I've also had side door sensor/contacts out and cleaned but to no avail. Also disconnected and reconnected battery.
After researching, there's a possibility that the BCM could need a reset. Has anybody tried this?

 

[BriT6]

Hi

Did anyone solve this problem?

If my light switches are set to door open setting, they come on when I unlock the van but dont go out when I start the van.
I have had the rear roof panel down and looked for any obvious wire damage and checked light fittings. I've had the cab light out and all seems good. I've also had side door sensor/contacts out and cleaned but to no avail. Also disconnected and reconnected battery.
After researching, there's a possibility that the BCM could need a reset. Has anybody tried this?

Hi. Did you solve this issue ? I have exactly the same problem. Could this issue be seen on a diagnostic? Have tried the ‘un hooking battery’ route. Cheers

 

[Dave512]

Try rattling the switch around when it is in the on when door open position. Mine got loose over the years and wore out. It might come on intermittently if you have a bad connection. You could buy a new one, or repair it like this if it is similar in design. You have to remove the light fitting (pop off the clear lens and undo a couple of T15s, then pull it out. There is a spring on mine which has lost its springiness and so the contacts aren't tight.

This is the back of the removed unit:
View attachment 178010

The spring is visible top right:
View attachment 178011View attachment 178012

I added an M5 washer which sits between the top of the spring and the plastic barbs that form the rear of the sliding switch:
View attachment 178013

This tightens it all up nicely and never a problem since.

I've got this problem with the sliding switch. The spring seems ok but the copper isn't making a connection. Fuse was replaced because I blew that inserting the led bulbs. Contact bent in the way and blew the fuse. Two small bulbs work but can't get the switch to work. The spring and copper connection did fall off when I was removing the whole section so I might have it the wrong way round or upside down. Sods law I've just lost it when I was trying to remove the spring to turn it around lol

 

[Dave512]

I've got this problem with the sliding switch. The spring seems ok but the copper isn't making a connection. Fuse was replaced because I blew that inserting the led bulbs. Contact bent in the way and blew the fuse. Two small bulbs work but can't get the switch to work. The spring and copper connection did fall off when I was removing the whole section so I might have it the wrong way round or upside down. Sods law I've just lost it when I was trying to remove the spring to turn it around lol

Quick update, got it all working again including the bigger led bulb.