Interim fitting of solar panel....

Deaks

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T6 Pro
We do not have a pop top roof yet, and probably won’t for a year maybe, as this is a ongoing project for sure.
But I still want to get some electrics installed in the meantime.
I’m looking at the Victron 12-12-30 for the b2b part and then a Victron MPTT solar controller with around a 300 watt panel on the roof.

What would be the best method to fit the panel on the current roof, bearing in mind that at some point it would need to be removed without damaging it, and then installed in the new pop top roof at a later date?

one last question...... I was looking at installing 2 x 110 agm batteries (one under each seat), but now I’m thinking that 1x 100 lithium may be better. Amazon are selling a 100 amph lithium battery for just under £500, using the cost difference is just under £200, which in the scale of it, is not that much, and if there are benefits, I would do it. Or is a sub £500 lithium battery to good to be true?
The next one up in price is the TN Power, which has some favourable comments on the internet, but it’s almost £250 more than the Amazon one.

Thoughts please :cool:

Deaks
 
Anyone who has removed a Sikoflexed panel for re-use will tell you its not a trivial job, and theres a strong possibility you may damage the panel.
If you're definitely going for a pop-top in a years time, I would suggest a standalone prop-up panel, maybe a suitcase one as that will sell on easily when you get your proper setup. Ask yourself, realistically how many times in the coming 12 months will you actually need solar, and how many of those times will coincide with a sunny spell?

Alternatively, fit a cheap panel, and consider it a throw-away in 12 months time. If you manage to remove it ok, bonus. If not, it cost you the same as a tank of juice and you've had a years use from it. I have a mixture of old and new, posh and cheap panels and I find the cheap ones are perfectly ok. Roo's 100W Baird was £80, thats been Sikoflexed to a T5, removed and fitted to an AusTops roof, and is working equally as well as my posh PV Logic 100W.
/2p
Phil
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Anyone who has removed a Sikoflexed panel for re-use will tell you its not a trivial job, and theres a strong possibility you may damage the panel.
If you're definitely going for a pop-top in a years time, I would suggest a standalone prop-up panel, maybe a suitcase one as that will sell on easily when you get your proper setup. Ask yourself, realistically how many times in the coming 12 months will you actually need solar, and how many of those times will coincide with a sunny spell?

Alternatively, fit a cheap panel, and consider it a throw-away in 12 months time. If you manage to remove it ok, bonus. If not, it cost you the same as a tank of juice and you've had a years use from it. I have a mixture of old and new, posh and cheap panels and I find the cheap ones are perfectly ok. Roo's 100W Baird was £80, thats been Sikoflexed to a T5, removed and fitted to an AusTops roof, and is working equally as well as my posh PV Logic 100W.
/2p
Phil
Hi,

I am about to fit a photonic universe self adhesive semi flexible 150w solar panel on to an Austops pop top. The Austops roof is rippled, what would you suggest to combat the ripple? I am concerned it might blow off as the contact will be compromised even though the panel is semi flexible. I have thought about sealing the panell with sika flex and also whether I can find a wind deflector to position in front? Any help and advice welcome.
 
'Rippled'? in what way? Roo's Austops has a perfect finish, the gellcoat is like a mirror. I cant imagine any imperfections would affect Sikoflex...
 
I saw a thread this week with someone asking about a bracket that fits across the roof that you can mount the panel on. Have a search and see if you can find it, I think that will work for you in the short term before you get a roof. I’ll see if I can find it too and post here
 
 
'Rippled'? in what way? Roo's Austops has a perfect finish, the gellcoat is like a mirror. I cant imagine any imperfections would affect Sikoflex...
Sorry not rippling in the paint but the roof isn’t smooth on an austop like steps see pic. So my concern is the amount of contact the panel will have. Do I level it with plastic or something. I really want to avoid drilling into the roof.

82DD2E3A-D555-4BD7-AF43-107E48185D8D.jpeg
 
Ah I see. Ridged! yes Roos is the same its not a problem, just Siko it just to the raised ribs, ideally you need a panel whose width spans three ridges, so the edges aren't overhanging. Seal the front, there will be about a cm to fill but leave the channels and the rear open so air can move and water can escape. Fillet the sides but leave the back open. Raining at the mo so not a good pic:

Img_20200606_113709_313.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In a recent post someone had fitted an ally framed panel onto roof rails / cross bars.
 
Ah I see. Ridged! yes Roos is the same its not a problem, just Siko it just to the raised ribs, ideally you need a panel whose width spans three ridges, so the edges aren't overhanging. Seal the front, there will be about a cm to fill but leave the channels and the the rear open so air can move and water can escape. Fillet the sides but leave the back open. Raining at the mo so not a good pic:

View attachment 72922
Thanks, mine is self adhesive (I really dont want to be driling in to the roof). I will see how it sits, thanks for the tips really hepful re over the 3 'ridges' (not ripples lol) and to fill the front and leave the rear. I am planning on using sikaflex 221 is this a good idea.
 
That’s a really expensive way to do it. Especially by the time you have bought the OEM rails that fit in the gutters Needed to fit it. be cheaper to stick a panel to the roof and throw it away when the pop top is fitted. Or if not bothered about height fix a rigid panel on OEM bars if you already have them.
 
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