Hidden awning rail?

[roadtripper]

The ones you fit without the roof bar actually tend to be more hidden as they can sit down in the drain channel - one thing to be mindful of is the this means the awning fabric can sit right on the paintwork and rub depending on your awning.

The ones you fit with a roof bar have to have the channel sitting up and out on the roof itself to give the roof bar feet room, so you are more likely to see the channel from the side. Of course the roof bar offers some distraction here and the channel might be taken for part of those fittings.

 

[roadtripper]

This is from when I fitted the second rail, you can see it sits quite low in the channel but also the way the rear is very slightly taller than the roof as it gently curves down the last 6 inches to the rear.

 

[Sim667]

The ones you fit without the roof bar actually tend to be more hidden as they can sit down in the drain channel - one thing to be mindful of is the this means the awning fabric can sit right on the paintwork and rub depending on your awning.

The ones you fit with a roof bar have to have the channel sitting up and out on the roof itself to give the roof bar feet room, so you are more likely to see the channel from the side. Of course the roof bar offers some distraction here and the channel might be taken for part of those fittings.

I am worried about it rubbing on the paint work, I’m not really sure what to do to mitigate that.

 

[Sim667]

+1 for van style. You dont need roof bars, just use the existing holes for them.in the roof. I used PTFE tape.and silicon to prevent any water leaks on the threaded screws.

The problem with van style is they only do them for the passenger side and I want them for both as I have twin slider and would like my glawning on one side and sun shade on the other. Or the option of being to change the side the glawning is on if not using the sun shade

 

[Sim667]

This is from when I fitted the second rail, you can see it sits quite low in the channel but also the way the rear is very slightly taller than the roof as it gently curves down the last 6 inches to the rear.

View attachment 332291View attachment 332292View attachment 332293

This doesn’t look that visible at all tbh.

 

[roadtripper]

I am worried about it rubbing on the paint work, I’m not really sure what to do to mitigate that.

For a few days use I tend to just pop some masking tape up where there is any chance of a rub - if I was doing it for longer I'd use what's commonly known as Helicopter Tape that's used to protect bike frames - essentially clear vinyl wrap on a large sellotape like roll. On a still day after a good wash (but not wax) should be easy to apply along the roof edge

 

[Sim667]

I’m assuming helicopter tape doesn’t damage your paintwork?

I was wondering about wedging a pool noodle in between fabric and paint

 

[roadtripper]

Thread 'Helicopter tape removal?'

15 Jul 2023

Having fitted the "stealth" type of C awning rail on the roof I'm wondering about protecting the paint a little bit from the awning rubbing.

So far I've just used some masking tape temporarily as it's only been a day event, not elegant but gives peace of mind.

I see helicopter tape as used by the bike folks suggested a fair bit, but I've also seen reports of it lifting paint off the bikes too...

Has anyone had any good or bad experiences removing it when they've used it for protection and any tips for removal before I try it?

• roadtripper

 

[Sim667]

the comment on there about magnetic sign stuff is genius. I’d do that.

 

[Sim667]

The sample for the rail turned up today and looks good, so I’m going to do that. My only new thought about the magnetic strip is that it doesn’t cover the apex of the bend from roof to side.

Where my my c channel awning doesn’t have a hole to show where the rail would sit in the awning I can’t tell, but in the photos above it looks like there’s a bit of a gap where I could wedge the edge of some magnetic sign material in between the rail and the edge of the gully so it would bend over under the fabric?

Edit: just went to have a look, im assuming the awning rail doesn’t fit over the weld in that gully, so I’ve tried where I think it will sit and with my compressed air sign I have for when I’ve got scuba cylinders in the back and it looks like it would work fine.

 

[roadtripper]

Edit: just went to have a look, im assuming the awning rail doesn’t fit over the weld in that gully, so I’ve tried where I think it will sit and with my compressed air sign I have for when I’ve got scuba cylinders in the back and it looks like it would work fine.

This is another reason I went for the slightly stood off approach as worked out on one of the forum threads here. Let me see if I can find you the link.

 

[roadtripper]

Here you go:

Thread 'Leak free awning rail fitting (I hope)'

23 Feb 2021

Fitting awning rails to both sides of the van and wasn’t confident about water tightness. Then found all the horror stories about leaks through the roof rail fittings into the interior of the van. I found this thread which is really helpful:

Roof Rail Leak Free Fixing.

Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes. Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut...

www.t6forum.com

I don’t intend fitting roof bars / rails though, just awning channel on both sides.

So I removed the rails and discovered I’d crushed the washers supplied with the rail as I think I over tightened them. the silicone sealant did appear to have sealed nicely around the bolts and...

• moodsterT6

• 
• 

If you're interested I dug the three things I needed out of my Amazon purchase history:

• A2 Stainless Bolts
• Nylon washers M6x18mmx1.5mm
• EDPM washers 16x6.3x2.8mm

 

[JDC]

The problem with van style is they only do them for the passenger side and I want them for both as I have twin slider and would like my glawning on one side and sun shade on the other. Or the option of being to change the side the glawning is on if not using the sun shade

Im pretty sure I got mine from Van style but may be mistaken. I also have a tein slider and you can barely see them under the bars.

 

[Sim667]

Here you go:

Thread 'Leak free awning rail fitting (I hope)'

23 Feb 2021

Fitting awning rails to both sides of the van and wasn’t confident about water tightness. Then found all the horror stories about leaks through the roof rail fittings into the interior of the van. I found this thread which is really helpful:

Roof Rail Leak Free Fixing.

Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes. Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut...

www.t6forum.com

I don’t intend fitting roof bars / rails though, just awning channel on both sides.

So I removed the rails and discovered I’d crushed the washers supplied with the rail as I think I over tightened them. the silicone sealant did appear to have sealed nicely around the bolts and...

• moodsterT6

• 
• 

If you're interested I dug the three things I needed out of my Amazon purchase history:

• A2 Stainless Bolts
• Nylon washers M6x18mmx1.5mm
• EDPM washers 16x6.3x2.8mm

I was under the impression I just used the bolts and washers that are already on the roof?

 

[JumpShip]

If your not going for roof rails then you don't need threaded bar etc .
BUT you will need some new bolts to fit your C channel cuz the original ones are made of cheese

 

[Paynewright]

I fitted my in channel C rail (no roof bars) with double sided trim tape as well as the four original roof bolts. The thinking is that this will stop any movement and also any detritus getting between the ally and the paint.

Its the stuff on ebay with the green backing tape.

I also rounded off the sharp edges and radiused the corners.

Re the awning rubbing the paint - I just wiped the paint carefully with a wet microfibre before attaching the awning.

 

[Sim667]

If your not going for roof rails then you don't need threaded bar etc .
BUT you will need some new bolts to fit your C channel cuz the original ones are made of cheese

Fab thanks, I’m going to follow your suggestion. One last question, does using the silicone sealant gum up the holes when you remove the screws in future? I.e. will it be a problem if I decide I want to fit a roof rack in future? Have you got one you’d suggest?

 

[JumpShip]

We used a thin strip of rubber along the whole underside of the rail between that and the paint to prevent any paint damage and ensure we didnt get any water ingress . ..never needed silicone.
But I wont stop you removing the bolt and refitting something different should you change your mind .

 

[Sim667]

We used a thin strip of rubber along the whole underside of the rail between that and the paint to prevent any paint damage and ensure we didnt get any water ingress . ..never needed silicone.
But I wont stop you removing the bolt and refitting something different should you change your mind .

Ah I read it on this thread. I think I’m getting confused with what I’m reading from who

Thread 'Leak free awning rail fitting (I hope)'

23 Feb 2021

Fitting awning rails to both sides of the van and wasn’t confident about water tightness. Then found all the horror stories about leaks through the roof rail fittings into the interior of the van. I found this thread which is really helpful:

Roof Rail Leak Free Fixing.

Got some ebay roof rails and did not want to gorm silicone into and around the fixing holes. Instead I got some M6 threaded bar cut a little longer than the bolts supplied with the rails. I then used the rubber washers that came off the blanking bolts together with a washer and M6 nyloc nut...

www.t6forum.com

I don’t intend fitting roof bars / rails though, just awning channel on both sides.

So I removed the rails and discovered I’d crushed the washers supplied with the rail as I think I over tightened them. the silicone sealant did appear to have sealed nicely around the bolts and...

• moodsterT6

• 
• 

It’s currently a Kombi with the OEM panels, so I’ll install them and then see how I get on in the rain before doing anything too wild with sika flex I think. I’ll silicon grease the washers too as that’s what we do on scuba gear on o rings for longevity and a seal.

With the fitting method on the other thread the rail doesn’t sit flush against the metal, so I won’t do the rubber.

 

[roadtripper]

I was under the impression I just used the bolts and washers that are already on the roof?

You can, but then you have raw aluminium against the paintwork and that's your only seal against water.

You can't just fill the thread with silicone as they are effectively captive nuts slightly floating under the hole between the two body panels, you have to ensure everything is sealed outside.

The EDPM bonded washers are slightly cupped when not under tension. The trick is to torque them up until they are almost flat but no further. This way they are small disc springs holding the edge of the rubber down and so will keep the seal against vibration and small movements. The centre hole of the rubber is also smaller then the bolt so they are quite stiff, but this means there is a strong seal against the thread.

It sounds complex but when I did it on mine it was straightforward and it just looks right as you do it and see how it seals. One side has been on 3 years the other nearly 2 now and no leaks and the gutters are clear. If I ever wanted to revert I've kept the basic plastic VW blanking bits or you can get them quite easily.