Front windows forced air ventilation

[gravelrash]

Hey everyone, my first post here, although I've been lurking for a while

Has anyone rigged up a forced air ventilation system which can be popped in to the top of a partially opened front window of a Transporter?

I've done some searches, but I haven't found anything yet.

I'm thinking something along the lines of one of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Straight-Adapter-Rectangular-234X29MM-Connector/dp/B004X4S8E4/ref=sr_1_13 - a letterbox vent which can be squeezed into the small gap of a partially opened window, in conjunction with front window wind deflectors, and using a 4 or 5 inch computer case fan (12v, cheap, quiet, available with variable speed adjustments built in). Possibly also a tailgate standoff so the vent can draw fresh air through the van when sleeping in it.

I'd love to see an example of it already done well. Otherwise, I'll just have to start bodging something together. Probably badly

TIA

 

[Paynewright]

What is the purpose? What are you trying to achieve?

Might help us to think of solutions / share ideas.

 

[Dellmassive]

@Hickey has done that on a side window....

Camping Ideas and Tips

Correct

www.t6forum.com

 

[gravelrash]

What is the purpose? What are you trying to achieve?

Might help us to think of solutions / share ideas.

My aim is to achieve good ventilation when sleeping in the van, mostly for the purpose of keeping humidity levels healthy, and so also reducing condensation issues. Helping to move the air around a bit on hot mornings would be a bonus side effect. Additional requirements are that I do not want to drill holes in the van or modify the existing windows. My feeling is that passive ventilation just by cracking the front windows open a bit isn't enough, and so I'd like some forced ventilation with a quiet fan.

Hickey's fan unit looks good, and certainly a variation on the theme I'm aiming for. but I suspect the small fans might make a fair amount of noise?

I've found the Reimo window slats, but they don't really help much with the "forced ventilation" bit. They don't look like they'll help any more than just cracking the windows a bit with wind deflectors fitted.

I'm thinking I might just bodge a prototype together with one of those letterbox vents and a computer fan, then maybe work on improving the design afterwards.

 

[z1ts]

Someone with one of those 3D printer things would be all over this to do a design & build of something!

 

[gravelrash]

Someone with one of those 3D printer things would be all over this to do a design & build of something!

Hah! The funny thing is, I have one of those 3D printer things.

Things I've discovered about 3D printing:
1. I'm rubbish at 3D CAD. Not only am I rubbish at it, I also hate it. Using 3D CAD software gets me all angry and frustrated
2. If I download someone else's 3D design, the printers are still a pain. They need constant attention. Things like bed levelling, retraction, print & bed temperature, size calibration, need tweaking for each print job
3. They take ages to print. You shouldn't really leave them unattended in case they burn your house down, but if you do, they inevitably fail the print part way through and you come home to a massive birds nest of wasted time and filament
4. They have some limitations as to the size of the object you can print

I can see me needing to knock up some fan-to-ducting adaptors though.

 

[Paynewright]

I’m sure there are vents on the floor in the rear corners so the cabin doesn’t pressurise when you’re driving along. Could you fit fans there to force air out when stationery? I’ve also read these areas can be condensation sumps.

 

[gravelrash]

I’m sure there are vents on the floor in the rear corners so the cabin doesn’t pressurise when you’re driving along. Could you fit fans there to force air out when stationery? I’ve also read these areas can be condensation sumps.

Interesting. Maybe. Although I've had a quick look and I can't see an obvious easy way to do that. I am getting the van lined though, so perhaps just some fans in the boards over those lower panels could work.

In the meantime I've ordered some cheap ducting parts from Toolstation which I think I can use to make something I can hang from / wedge into the top of the front windows when required

 

[airhoguk]

Have you considered a clip on 12 volt fan, clipped on to the grab handle. Alternatively you can get solar powered window fans which you could use the fan housing and connect to a 12 volt socket with a bit of tinkering

 

[gravelrash]

Thanks for AirHogUK's suggestion of those solar fans. I didn't know they existed. They are almost what I wanted, but unfortunately the ones I found seemed to be quite poorly made and badly reviewed, and unlikely to move enough air to achieve the level of ventilation I'm after

I've now knocked together a working prototype. I'll try it out on a few camping trips before making any real changes to the design. I think it will work well, so any changes I make to the next version will most likely just be cosmetic. It certainly shifts a fair amount of air. In a very unscientific test, it will fill a large bin liner with air in a few seconds at full speed, and in a couple of minutes at low speed. Noise levels. it is fairly quiet even at full speed, and is completely inaudible at the lowest speed.

I've added some photos. I'm happy to provide more details if this project is of any interest to anyone other than myself

 

[Paynewright]

I wonder if you could fit an adjustable temperature controller so it kicks in when it gets hot?

 

[gravelrash]

I wonder if you could fit an adjustable temperature controller so it kicks in when it gets hot?

I'm sure it would be simple to connect up a thermostat, but my aim is primarily to control humidity and keep the air fresh at all times, so I'd prefer if it runs continuously. I have a leisure battery, but the amperage of the fan is so low that it could probably run for days from a small 12v power bank

I know a few people who have performed camper conversions, and every single one of them has ultimately ended up cutting holes in their roof and fitting roof vents at the very least, some with forced air (extractor fan) as well. I'm hoping this DIY extractor will perform well enough that cutting holes in the van will not be necessary for me.

 

[Paynewright]

Is a good idea and being top of the window will be where the heat rises

 

[Salty Spuds]

We have had one of these fitted to our van & it has cured condensation & stuffy nights at a stroke. The unit completely replaces the rear glass. The window is double glazed & has a fly screen & insulated blackout blind on the inside. The window can be opened & locked on a ventilation setting for nighttime, this causes a natural convection when the poptop is up, hot air out of the top of the roof & cool air drawn in through the window.

Tail window 960 x 450 mm for VW T6 - S7P 5000 hinged window

A hinged window especially for the VW T6 station wagon and panel van. Instead of the rear window, a Gfk trim with embossing for the window is glued.…

www.reimo.com

 

[scotia]

We have had one of these fitted to our van & it has cured condensation & stuffy nights at a stroke. The unit completely replaces the rear glass. The window is double glazed & has a fly screen & insulated blackout blind on the inside. The window can be opened & locked on a ventilation setting for nighttime, this causes a natural convection when the poptop is up, hot air out of the top of the roof & cool air drawn in through the window.

Tail window 960 x 450 mm for VW T6 - S7P 5000 hinged window

A hinged window especially for the VW T6 station wagon and panel van. Instead of the rear window, a Gfk trim with embossing for the window is glued.…

www.reimo.com

this is very interesting... im guessing the wiper can just be deleted physically? did you have to then replace the interior to not have the motor?

 

[Salty Spuds]

this is very interesting... im guessing the wiper can just be deleted physically? did you have to then replace the interior to not have the motor?

The motor is attached to the glass. The whole lot comes out. The wiper & motor assembly is on a shelf in the garage. The washer pipe is capped off under the bonnet.

 

[DXX]

If you have both cab windows slightly open under the wind deflectors there is already fairly good air flow, especially with a breeze blowing across the van
For warm air to exit the van by convection, cooler air needs to be free flowing in to replace it, generally from a lower point. If found that a tailgate hold open bracket combined with the slightly open cab windows provides plenty of ventilation on the hottest nights.
The tailgate hold open bracket ventilation may not always be ideal depending on location / rain forecast. In this case an opening in the floor / cab step would provide good convection.
Keep it simple.

 

[Andpopse]

Would a heater on air only setting not do this ?

 

[DXX]

Would a heater on air only setting not do this ?

If it’s taking air from outside the van. Most heater installations I’ve seen recirculate air in the van, that’s not going to cool the van.

 

[Hamster67]

If you have both cab windows slightly open under the wind deflectors there is already fairly good air flow, especially with a breeze blowing across the van
For warm air to exit the van by convection, cooler air needs to be free flowing in to replace it, generally from a lower point. If found that a tailgate hold open bracket combined with the slightly open cab windows provides plenty of ventilation on the hottest nights.
The tailgate hold open bracket ventilation may not always be ideal depending on location / rain forecast. In this case an opening in the floor / cab step would provide good convection.
Keep it simple.

I also do the above and use a USB fan/ light which has a strong clamp and can easily be moved around. See pic.